360-508 mopar cam builds

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No, I just think your jumping the gun, making classic mistakes on building too much cam, maybe its me or just your personality. Your like a Jack Russel terrier, BOING BOING BOING, ever hear slow down to go fast?
 
Its not to big of a cam whats with all your smart remarks did I offend u or something?im looking for info on builds with mopar 292/508 cam or mopar cam.to get me to 1200-1150 or quicker.little difference it will throw a combo off.as I mentioned im looking for a few builds that r the same well within the range im looking for.
 
I can't give you numbers, but my experience with the .508 MP told me early on, in the 70's, that it wasn't a street friendly cam other then on a limited use car with a stout converter, compression and some gear. It really was a top of the line hydraulic bracket cam in it's day from DC/MP. With that said, it could very well get the job done today, even though most of the modern cam grinds will out perform it. The main plus these days is the older ground cams were much easier on the valvetrain vs the modern, quick lobe designs.

The best post as far as what your asking comes from Matt's post below.....Serious results IMO.

clonestocker said:
I ran a KB107 360 w/508 Purple shaft and it was the happiest motor I've ever owned. The heads had 2.02 valve w/bowl work only. Low Gear 904. Consistant 11.70 @ 115 @ 3050 ft. Best pass ever was 11.49 @116 @ Speedworld in Phoenix. It had a 1.49 60'. 3000 lbs Duster T/A convertor, 4.56 Gears and 13x31 Slicks. The motor has been in my sons street car for years and got to the Final 4 Pinks Allout Tucson in 2007 running 12.50's. later matt
Click to expand...
 
thanks.and for the heads i cant find a 188 valve j head for cheap.im concidering using hughes iron ram mag heads,they flow 227 ar 500 lift intake thats with the 192 valves,j head 188 valve intake flow is 220 at 500 lift.the combos im looking for are old ones i like keeping it old school.and for the gears and tires,i have a set of brand new 275/60/15 and 373lsd ford 8.8,when the guy narrows it this week i may have him replac gearing.an old member i beieve dart360 i listed his combo he hasnt been on since 05.
 
Car 1972 Dart
Weight 3350 w/driver
Gears 3.91
Trans 727,reverse man.valve body,3500 Coan conv.
Tires 28x10 Hoosiers

Suspension8 3/4 S/S springs,long drag shocks

Engine 1974 360
Pistons K.B 107 +030
Rods stock with ARP bolts
Crank Stock .010/.010
Heads Stock J heads 1.88/1.60 valves
Cam MP 508/292

Intake Edlebrock TM-5
Carb Holley 750 DP 80/82 jets


E.T 12.02
MPH 112
RPM/Traps 5700
60 foot 1.62
 
i cant fit bigger tires so what should i do on gearing this guy ran 391 and 28 tires which i have.
 
That's a decent combination, there. For what it's worth,E.Q heads,flow mid 230's(or better) with a good 1.92 valve installed. As for velocity,the Magnum combustion chamber,intake packs cylinders so much quicker than a standard LA head.With a 391 gear,you an go either way. If "dusterdoug" will respond,he has done all of this.(and he's close to you). Smart dude,done both LA & Magnum/E.Q heads. He knows his sheit....
 
wow i was looking up the mopar cams they are no longer purple wtf man wtf lol thatswas the coolest part
 
mopardart44067 said:
Car 1972 Dart
Weight 3350 w/driver
Gears 3.91
Trans 727,reverse man.valve body,3500 Coan conv.
Tires 28x10 Hoosiers

Suspension8 3/4 S/S springs,long drag shocks

Engine 1974 360
Pistons K.B 107 +030
Rods stock with ARP bolts
Crank Stock .010/.010
Heads Stock J heads 1.88/1.60 valves
Cam MP 508/292

Intake Edlebrock TM-5
Carb Holley 750 DP 80/82 jets


E.T 12.02
MPH 112
RPM/Traps 5700
60 foot 1.62
Click to expand...

That's about right for a well tuned SB combo with a 508 cam and 727. I'd bet it would be faster with an Air Gap intake on it, especially with a only a 3500 converter.

The 508 is a big cam from a duration standpoint at .050 tappet lift, 248ish IIRC. If you build it, put it in advanced a bit as in 102 ICL using the 108 LSA camshaft.

I have a 508 in a 340. It sounds nasty, however, it sucks for driving around on the street.
 
this combo was dart360 member if u look at his posts it ran 1190s a little later after he posted this.actually about the time it was posted i worked at a dodge dealership i was sneeking on the computer to this site,and seen that combo.untill the other day i found it.this has been my goal with a 360 for some time now.i cant believe i found it ive looked nd looked for years because i didnt remember where i seen it.but i like it for the fact that i only need 391 gears i will go 410 i have a 8.8 lsd rearend has 373 rite now.only 28 tire which is a 275/60/15,ill get some 28x10 slicks if they fit(no mods to rear) a 3500 coan convertor better than a 4500 ,if a 4500 would make it faster i would go that route along with 456 gears but,at this time i wanna leave it as much the same as i can.people are asking alote of money for j heads even the 188 valve ones i need for this.im thinking about running some small valve magnum heads with the stock size valves.i believe this combo works better because of the 188 valve vs the 202.so hopfully the 192/162 magnum heads will have the same effect but with a closed chamber and set at 0 deck ill have 40 quench,hopfully it wont throw this combo off unless it makes it a little quicker.and for intakes from what i read t5 is horrible,im concidering a m1 single plane.i also like the fact there is no trans brake.this is a good example of an affordable around $2000 max build to run high 11s.
 
What's a lot of money for 1.88 J heads. I have some here... $150 for a pair.
 
I'm not sure why you are convinced that a 1.88 valve is better than a 2.02. The old 340 heads with 2.02s moved more air than the later 1.88 versions. A 2.02 valve added to the small valve head with proper bowl work will outperform the small valve. I think you are overly concerned with the velocity thing here. It's not like we're going from a Windsor head to a Cleveland 4v head.
 
They weren't cracked when they came off the engine. They usually don't crack in stock form unless someone really abused them.

You want them cleaned and magnafluxed, I can drop them at a shop, you pay for it and get the results. I'm not worried about cracks, but, if you want me to incur the expense, they won't be 150/pr.
 
You seem to know everything so why are you even asking for advice?
 
All I can say is, my desktop dyno says bigger valves will work better. Jim Laroy's (IQ52) dyno says they work better. You come on here askin for advice and insult people. Real classy. Not a very good way to get help. You're the only one with idiotic responses so far.

Lastly, I have DIRECT experience with a stock bore and stroke 360 with the .508 cam in an A body. But I'll be damned if I'm gonna help somebody that's acting so pompous. If I was everybody else, I'd let this thread die a quick death.
 
wrong poison dart set me off sorry to offend anyone.i dont take crap from noone.i gotta very short fuse.im copying a combo i found that i listed.the guy said that with this setup the 188 valve works better.i dont wanna take a turn in the wrong direction
 
Well "the guy" is wrong. I'm outta this train wreck. Have fun.
 
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