yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
I'm sure he'll be by soon to wear me out like a 2 dollar ***** on coke. I probably deserve it.
360 hesitation and
- Thread starter KJoeZ61
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I'm sure he'll be by soon to wear me out like a 2 dollar ***** on coke. I probably deserve it.
KJoeZ61
Well-Known Member
It was plug #4 on post 10. I didn't realize the wires were crossed back then.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Yeah, I figured it would be,lol.
Make your own looms
From zip-ties
Cheap as can be, and you can run as many as you need to, and you never run out of them.
Just loosely encircle as many wires as you want to loom. Then encircle that tie, between each pair of wires. Then start snugging them up, rotating the lock-pieces out of sight as you go.
You can even use ties with a mounting ring on one end, if you need to anchor it onto something
And they come in several colors.
They may not be up to the caliber of your engine bay, but from $5.00 you'll get change back.
They seem to look good in my bay, tho, cuz I just drive the beast. I only open the hood to check the fluids, and she hasn't been clean under there since 2004,the last time the engine was out, something like 80,000 miles ago.
Stay away from the cheap ties tho; even if they survive the install, they'll probably bake in no time.
Make your own looms
From zip-ties
Cheap as can be, and you can run as many as you need to, and you never run out of them.
Just loosely encircle as many wires as you want to loom. Then encircle that tie, between each pair of wires. Then start snugging them up, rotating the lock-pieces out of sight as you go.
You can even use ties with a mounting ring on one end, if you need to anchor it onto something
And they come in several colors.
They may not be up to the caliber of your engine bay, but from $5.00 you'll get change back.
They seem to look good in my bay, tho, cuz I just drive the beast. I only open the hood to check the fluids, and she hasn't been clean under there since 2004,the last time the engine was out, something like 80,000 miles ago.
Stay away from the cheap ties tho; even if they survive the install, they'll probably bake in no time.
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It’s funny. I’m just working double shift this week and another tomorrow so I’m a wee tired. I say enriched the carb. Disconnect the vacuum advance and see what you get.
KJoeZ61
Well-Known Member
It’s confirmed crossed ignition wires on 5&7, will correct tomorrow.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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the plugs don't lie.
Fixing the wires may cure your back-firing, but you may still gonna have to do something about the plug-reading,she appears to want more fuel.
And you're gonna need to prove the timing or risk a meltdown. It may in fact be fine.But you can't know that unless you prove it. Do not rely on other's work.Well you could I suppose; For a lot of guys around here, I was that "other" guy,lol. You may have one of those "other" guys in your neighborhood.
With Rumble now on board, with YR and with me, that's three confirming witnesses.
Fixing the wires may cure your back-firing, but you may still gonna have to do something about the plug-reading,she appears to want more fuel.
And you're gonna need to prove the timing or risk a meltdown. It may in fact be fine.But you can't know that unless you prove it. Do not rely on other's work.Well you could I suppose; For a lot of guys around here, I was that "other" guy,lol. You may have one of those "other" guys in your neighborhood.
With Rumble now on board, with YR and with me, that's three confirming witnesses.
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KJoeZ61
Well-Known Member
Okay the backwards wires fixed the back fire issue! I'm pretty sure the timing is close, I have it set about 15* and using the correct marks. I'm confused about the fuel issue, when I disconnect the secondary's what will or wont I be watching for?
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Hang on,we're not that far yet!
Firstly, idle-timing, at this point, is almost irrelevant. It's the power-timing you HAVE to be concerned with. I can't stress this enough. Shortly,you are going to be making this engine work pretty hard and the power-timing better not be too much! I get the impression that you are new to this field, so please don't take this the wrong way, especially not in a condescending way, BUT if your power timing is too much, it doesn't take very long to damage the engine. Not everybody knows what detonation sounds like or feels like or maybe you can't even hear it over the exhaust/intake roar. So you have to get this done first.
So once again;with the Vcan defeated, rev it up to 4000 with the timing light installed and read the timing. If your light is not a dial back-type, then you will HAVE to install a timing tape. And you can synchronize your TDCs at this time. If the timing is not in the range of 32 to 34*, at this time, Make it so. For instance, if it is at 40, you know you have 7* to much plus/minus 1 . Return the engine to idle, and check the idle timing,then subtract 7 from whatever shows up there. Then rev it back up to 4000 to prove you did a good job.
I selected 34* for two reasons; #1) we don't know that your balancer TDC is synchronized with the actual Piston TDC, and #2) 34* is a reasonably safe number.I highly recommend you synchronize those two before any 3rd gear blasts.
After that;
and assuming you don't have an AFR gauge on it;
Take it for a long ride, maybe 30/40 minutes, get to know your combo. Try various throttle settings and from various rpms. Try not to hit the gas hard enough for the trans kick down ...............................ALL the time,lol.
If the backfire is gone,
How is it responding to load now?
Any missfires under load,in second gear? Either Just on the primaries,or at Wot?
Does WOT power go flat,or nose drop after say 4000, in second gear? With 3.23s that would be 65mph.
Any surging while cruising? if yes at what mph? or thru what mph range?
Any back-firing on closed-throttle deceleration?
At WOT;Does it ever lose power to the point of making a racket in the headers or air-cleaner.
Firstly, idle-timing, at this point, is almost irrelevant. It's the power-timing you HAVE to be concerned with. I can't stress this enough. Shortly,you are going to be making this engine work pretty hard and the power-timing better not be too much! I get the impression that you are new to this field, so please don't take this the wrong way, especially not in a condescending way, BUT if your power timing is too much, it doesn't take very long to damage the engine. Not everybody knows what detonation sounds like or feels like or maybe you can't even hear it over the exhaust/intake roar. So you have to get this done first.
So once again;with the Vcan defeated, rev it up to 4000 with the timing light installed and read the timing. If your light is not a dial back-type, then you will HAVE to install a timing tape. And you can synchronize your TDCs at this time. If the timing is not in the range of 32 to 34*, at this time, Make it so. For instance, if it is at 40, you know you have 7* to much plus/minus 1 . Return the engine to idle, and check the idle timing,then subtract 7 from whatever shows up there. Then rev it back up to 4000 to prove you did a good job.
I selected 34* for two reasons; #1) we don't know that your balancer TDC is synchronized with the actual Piston TDC, and #2) 34* is a reasonably safe number.I highly recommend you synchronize those two before any 3rd gear blasts.
After that;
and assuming you don't have an AFR gauge on it;
Take it for a long ride, maybe 30/40 minutes, get to know your combo. Try various throttle settings and from various rpms. Try not to hit the gas hard enough for the trans kick down ...............................ALL the time,lol.
If the backfire is gone,
How is it responding to load now?
Any missfires under load,in second gear? Either Just on the primaries,or at Wot?
Does WOT power go flat,or nose drop after say 4000, in second gear? With 3.23s that would be 65mph.
Any surging while cruising? if yes at what mph? or thru what mph range?
Any back-firing on closed-throttle deceleration?
At WOT;Does it ever lose power to the point of making a racket in the headers or air-cleaner.
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KJoeZ61
Well-Known Member
Thanks for your help AJ/FormS. I have some experience with old Mopars, sold my 383 C-Body this summer which I had for 10 years. And I had a 73 Swinger and two other C-Bodies as a kid in the late 70's. But I never got this involved at least engine wise. I attached the instructions I was given from the machine shop for the break in, didn't expect to get this deep!
Tomorrow is Thanksgiving here in the states so I probably won't get back to it until Friday.
Tomorrow is Thanksgiving here in the states so I probably won't get back to it until Friday.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Well if you know your way around a bit, then maybe you could post your cam specs and TRUE compression ratio.
This is also the best time to record your cranking compression pressure, for comparison at some future date. And if you do the test, post up the results.
Here's a hypothetical;
Suppose 5000 miles down the road, the engine seems a little soft, well then, just do another compression test. If the numbers come up the same or similar, then you know it's probably just a tuning issue......or your imagination.
But here's the thing; if it has 160 today, and you never tested it; but 5000 miles later you test it and find 150, you might wrongly conclude there's nothing wrong with her, when in fact, something is very wrong.
From the cam specs and either the true compression ratio,or the cranking cylinder pressure, is is possible to get an idea of what kind of performance to expect from the engine. Then if for some reason you don't get it,we might know where to go look for it.
This is also the best time to record your cranking compression pressure, for comparison at some future date. And if you do the test, post up the results.
Here's a hypothetical;
Suppose 5000 miles down the road, the engine seems a little soft, well then, just do another compression test. If the numbers come up the same or similar, then you know it's probably just a tuning issue......or your imagination.
But here's the thing; if it has 160 today, and you never tested it; but 5000 miles later you test it and find 150, you might wrongly conclude there's nothing wrong with her, when in fact, something is very wrong.
From the cam specs and either the true compression ratio,or the cranking cylinder pressure, is is possible to get an idea of what kind of performance to expect from the engine. Then if for some reason you don't get it,we might know where to go look for it.
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