360 is still running hot

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straightlinespeed

straightlinespeed

Sometimes I pretend to be normal
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I finally got the car out on its maiden voyage today! It was a long winter and lots of hours putting in new parts and goodies. Which included a nice set of Speedhut gauges.

One of the issues I was having prior to the end of last year was the car overheating. I picked up a 3 row Champion Radiator to help cool it down. Im also running twin 10" Perma-cool electric fans that they claim move 2800cfm each.

Just a FYI prior to this 360 I had a 318 that ran nice and cool. Right around 180* with a old nasty radiator. The 360 did not like that radiator at all. I know the engine got up to 250* at one point last summer.

To help the cooling issues I also installed a 160* t-stat, which I verified opened before I put it in. The electric fans are suppose to kick in at 185 and off at 165 (if I remember correctly). I also have a 6 blade water pump.

Before I took it on a drive I let it warm up to verify the fans would start and no leaks etc.. They actually didnt kick in until close to 200*. I figure I could deal with that discrepancy and take it out. As I was driving it just kept creeping up. The first run was about 6 miles. When I got home the gauge was at 212*. I let it cool down. Checked some more things and then the future wife wanted to go for a nice drive today. So we took it out for about a 35 miles drive. It stayed at 212* for about half the drive, then crept up to about 220*. Its a cooler day, about 68-70* when we took it for a drive, but come mid summer heat there is no way it will stay cool.

The motor only has around 600 miles on it so its a fairly fresh build. Although when I changed the t-stat I noticed there was a lot of gunk around it. Kinda a brown slime to say. I wouldnt think that the engine shop would send out a fresh engine with stop leak still in it but it came to mind. Im just at a loss as to what to change or try. Other than change to maybe a 8 blade water pump or something high flow. Please help me try to figure this out..

O
 
A 195 degree thermostat is a good start, switch back to a good shroud and a clutch fan. OEM style all the way. These electric fans and low thermostats are asking for trouble.
 
PoisonDart74 said:
A 195 degree thermostat is a good start, switch back to a good shroud and a clutch fan. OEM style all the way. These electric fans and low thermostats are asking for trouble.
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Only reason I went with electrics is because I didnt have the clearance for the OEM fan, after swapping in the new radiator. Only a 1/4" of clearance between the fan and radiator fins
 
Pictures, would help immensely, so would the specs,on the new 360. Did you buy,the matching temperature sending unit,for the actual gauge ? My advice,pick up a cheap sealed capillary temp gauge,for actual verification.(Actron /Sun,20 new/ older gauge.). I would,start there.
 
Abodybomber said:
Pictures, would help immensely, so would the specs,on the new 360. Did you buy,the matching temperature sending unit,for the actual gauge ? My advice,pick up a cheap sealed capillary temp gauge,for actual verification.(Actron /Sun,20 new/ older gauge.). I would,start there.
Click to expand...

Sorry, pics of what? Yes the sending unit came with the gauge set. So its matched up to there gauges.

I do have a cheap one here at home but I have no place to install it since its a 3/8" nut on it. Unless I go directly into the block itself.

As for the engine, 360, xe268 cam, air gap, holley 670 carb, tti's. Initial timing is about 15* and total is about 38*. Let me know if you want more specs.
 
PoisonDart74 said:
Why does your 360 fit so close?
Click to expand...

No idea, but I now a couple other members on here were also having the same issue I was. I believe Inertia was one of them. He threw a chain on his block and tied it back towards the rear of the car just so it wouldnt move forward. I wasnt as comfortable with this option so I opted for the electric fans. I even verified the engine mounts where in the correct location on the ears, which they are.
 
straightlinespeed said:
Sorry, pics of what? Yes the sending unit came with the gauge set. So its matched up to there gauges.

I do have a cheap one here at home but I have no place to install it since its a 3/8" nut on it. Unless I go directly into the block itself.

As for the engine, 360, xe268 cam, air gap, holley 670 carb, tti's. Initial timing is about 15* and total is about 38*. Let me know if you want more specs.
Click to expand...

Sorry,gotta start somewhere. Any chance,of the lower hose collapsing?
As for pictures, it sometimes helps identify situations.
 
Abodybomber said:
Sorry,gotta start somewhere. Any chance,of the lower hose collapsing?
As for pictures, it sometimes helps identify situations.
Click to expand...

I suppose that is a possibility, although Im not sure how I would verify that. Would it stay collapsed after its up to operating temp? So I could stop and look or do you think it would pop back to its normal form?

I could snap some general pics for you all.
 
straightlinespeed said:
I suppose that is a possibility, although Im not sure how I would verify that. Would it stay collapsed after its up to operating temp? So I could stop and look or do you think it would pop back to its normal form?

I could snap some general pics for you all.
Click to expand...
F
At this point,gotta start somewhere.... Most lower hoses,don't come with springs anymore. Pictures, yes.......
 
Here are the pics, I checked the lower hose although its been about over a hour it was normal looking and feeling. I squeezed the upper hose and could hear the t-stat bouncing up and down in the t-stat housing. Not a lot but you could hear it clicking. Which is telling me its not tight but I doubt that would make any difference.

View attachment IMG_20140518_201439_029.jpg

View attachment IMG_20140518_201451_915.jpg

View attachment IMG_20140518_201458_514.jpg

View attachment IMG_20140518_201514_661.jpg
 
You've still not said if the lower hose has a support spring in it. If it does not, it is probably collapsing. Also the thing about the thermostat is not right. If the thermostat is not tight in the housing, unregulated water is coming around it.
 
RustyRatRod said:
You've still not said if the lower hose has a support spring in it. If it does not, it is probably collapsing. Also the thing about the thermostat is not right. If the thermostat is not tight in the housing, unregulated water is coming around it.
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Im sorry, no mine does not have the spring in it.

The tstat fits the intake housing nice and tight, but it seems the t-stat outlet housing also has a identical recess in it so its double the size it needs to be.

I just realized that I forgot to mention Im running Magnum heads on my LA. Not sure if that is a issue to this or not. Which may explain the t-stat bouncing around in the housing also. I had to find a outlet that fit and wasnt tall like the truck outlet.


draginmopars said:
i can't tell from the pics, if they are 1 to 1 ratio

or under driving the pump
Click to expand...

Im sorry Im not sure either. I never understood that underdriving thing.
 
You need to fix the lower hose and thermostat issues and report back. Those are two glaring things wrong that will cause over heating.
 
RustyRatRod said:
You need to fix the lower hose and thermostat issues and report back. Those are two glaring things wrong that will cause over heating.
Click to expand...

Do they sell a spring I can insert into the hose to prevent the collapsing?

Is it a big deal if extra water is getting by the t-stat? Im just curious is all.
 
I had similar issues. Your set up looks neat. I used a flex fan and a four row rad. Your air gap intake should be helping. Keeps hot oil away from intake runners better. One person told me to get a high flow thermostat. Couldn't find one at the local parts store. So I did the unthinkable...drilled holes around the perimeter of the thermostat. Hey, I was getting desperate and it helped quite a bit. Rad hoses were not collapsed. I did not use a windage tray when the engine was built. That might have helped.
 
straightlinespeed said:
Do they sell a spring I can insert into the hose to prevent the collapsing?

Is it a big deal if extra water is getting by the t-stat? Im just curious is all.
Click to expand...

Those are simply two things that are incorrect beyond the shadow of a doubt. You should fix them before trying to diagnose any further. You can make a support spring from a coat hanger if you cannot find one. I don't know if fixing either or both will solve your problem, but it certainly will not hurt.
 
I have a coupla thoughts,,

I'm not sure I like that solid plate the fans are mounted on,, it appears to me to be blocking airflow and possibly the resulting turbulence affecting the flow of air to the small round areas avail, then the fan motor themselves block flow... jmo..

Can you not remove that whole elec fan assmbly,, and just bolt on any reg. fan you got,, with a shrould would be nice,, but just drive it with the fan,, and see what it does..

hope it helps
 
I would take the thermostat out all together. Don't really need it in there if only driving in the warmer months. And you are also blocking half of your radiator. You bought a 3 row and electric fans but you are only cooling where the fans are. Cut some big holes in the spots where there are no fans. You are blocking air flow everywhere except where the fans are. Its there- use it. I have a stock 360 with an old beat up 2 row radiator and it never over heats. I don't even have a shroud on it. Also- is your radiator coolant mixed 50/50? Another thing is-take your upper rad hose and unhook at rad side and lift higher than block and rad. Use a radiator pressure checker and "push" Rad coolant to try and make sure of n air pockets in head. May even be able to unhook heater core hoses and lift those higher than engine and rad.
 
inertia said:
I have a coupla thoughts,,

I'm not sure I like that solid plate the fans are mounted on,, it appears to me to be blocking airflow and possibly the resulting turbulence affecting the flow of air, then the fan motor themselves block flow... jmo..

Can you not remove that whole elec fan assmbly,, and just bolt on any reg. fan you got,, with a shrould would be nice,, but just drive it with the fan,, and see what it does..

hope it helps
Click to expand...

I think you may have hit the nail on the head. The plate the fans are mounted on is slammed right up against the radiator, in essence cutting off air flow to all but where the fans are mounted. I think we have a winner.
 
straightlinespeed said:
Only reason I went with electrics is because I didnt have the clearance for the OEM fan, after swapping in the new radiator. Only a 1/4" of clearance between the fan and radiator fins
Click to expand...

You need to use shorty the jaguar Hayden pn 2765 fan clutch.

I did that with my aluminum water pump and Champion 4 row radiator. Works fine.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Those are simply two things that are incorrect beyond the shadow of a doubt. You should fix them before trying to diagnose any further. You can make a support spring from a coat hanger if you cannot find one. I don't know if fixing either or both will solve your problem, but it certainly will not hurt.
Click to expand...

I will look for a spring or make something, for that lower hose. Then figure out what to do about that t-stat.

inertia said:
I have a coupla thoughts,,

I'm not sure I like that solid plate the fans are mounted on,, it appears to me to be blocking airflow and possibly the resulting turbulence affecting the flow of air to the small round areas avail, then the fan motor themselves block flow... jmo..

Can you not remove that whole elec fan assmbly,, and just bolt on any reg. fan you got,, with a shrould would be nice,, but just drive it with the fan,, and see what it does..

hope it helps
Click to expand...

I was debating about the spots the fan was not, blocking air flow. I figured if I did that then the fans would not pull air thru the radiator properly so I left them enclosed. I could cut them open larger but need to leave some material there so that the fans have a stable mounting.

john27pa said:
I would take the thermostat out all together. Don't really need it in there if only driving in the warmer months. And you are also blocking half of your radiator. You bought a 3 row and electric fans but you are only cooling where the fans are. Cut some big holes in the spots where there are no fans. You are blocking air flow everywhere except where the fans are. Its there- use it. I have a stock 360 with an old beat up 2 row radiator and it never over heats. I don't even have a shroud on it. Also- is your radiator coolant mixed 50/50? Another thing is-take your upper rad hose and unhook at rad side and lift higher than block and rad. Use a radiator pressure checker and "push" Rad coolant to try and make sure of n air pockets in head. May even be able to unhook heater core hoses and lift those higher than engine and rad.
Click to expand...

I dont drive the car in winter months here, but may in the spring and fall when its a bit cooler out.

When I had the old beat up radiator on the car. I was using a factory 7 blade fan with out a shroud and over heated worse than now. I am running a 50/50 mix in the car. I was wondering about air pockets in the engine so that is a for sure idea.

RustyRatRod said:
I think you may have hit the nail on the head. The plate the fans are mounted on is slammed right up against the radiator, in essence cutting off air flow to all but where the fans are mounted. I think we have a winner.
Click to expand...

Actually its about 1 inch back from the fins. But I can imagine that is close enough to cause these problems also. Like stated I can take the shroud off and cut some bigger openings where those fans are not to allow more air flow thru the radiator.
 
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