4 Link vs Spring Relocation? Pros/Cons?

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Expire

Expire

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Hey everyone, I'm getting ready to dive into building my duster and was trying to plane what size tire/wheel I want in the rear since I want to run a staggered set up.

I read that you can fit 10.5s in the rear with just the spring location kit and no tub. But I would probably end up trying to tub it anyways.

I also heard you can do the same (if not a little more) with the 4Link kit.

What are the pros / cons of each? Is one more stable, rated higher, will I be able to run larger wheels with one than the other?

Thanks for the help!
 
Expire said:
Hey everyone, I'm getting ready to dive into building my duster and was trying to plane what size tire/wheel I want in the rear since I want to run a staggered set up.

I read that you can fit 10.5s in the rear with just the spring location kit and no tub. But I would probably end up trying to tub it anyways.

I also heard you can do the same (if not a little more) with the 4Link kit.

What are the pros / cons of each? Is one more stable, rated higher, will I be able to run larger wheels with one than the other?

Thanks for the help!
Click to expand...

Depends on what you want to do exactly with the car. The factory leafs are pretty good, Caltraks are an option or a full on 4 link.

For me, I'm going 4 link in my car, because I plan to road race it and I want the adjustability of a 4 link. Plus it in theory will hook better.

Lateral g forums has a really good write up comparing the rear suspension types. I'll see if I can find the link
 
Thanks for the fast reply!

As of right now, I'm dreaming of building it as sort of a Jr. Pro-street style. I love the styling of the the pro street cars. But since I don't think I'll ever be at the point where it would officially be pro-street, I think the category is actually called pro-stock.
 
Expire said:
Hey everyone, I'm getting ready to dive into building my duster and was trying to plane what size tire/wheel I want in the rear since I want to run a staggered set up.

I read that you can fit 10.5s in the rear with just the spring location kit and no tub. But I would probably end up trying to tub it anyways.

I also heard you can do the same (if not a little more) with the 4Link kit.

What are the pros / cons of each? Is one more stable, rated higher, will I be able to run larger wheels with one than the other?

Thanks for the help!
Click to expand...

10.50's will fit with an offset shackle.

12.50's fit with a mini tub.

4 link or leafs, the frame is what will limit you.
 
Expire said:
Thanks for the fast reply!

As of right now, I'm dreaming of building it as sort of a Jr. Pro-street style. I love the styling of the the pro street cars. But since I don't think I'll ever be at the point where it would officially be pro-street, I think the category is actually called pro-stock.
Click to expand...


Then I'd say super stock rear leafs or a triangulated 4 link.

As mentioned above, the frame will.limit you either way
 
roccodart440 said:
10.50's will fit with an offset shackle.

12.50's fit with a mini tub.

4 link or leafs, the frame is what will limit you.
Click to expand...

Great info, by offset shackle, you're talking about this, correct?
http://www.summitracing.com/search/...on-kits/year/1974/model/duster/chassis/a-body

Also, what tire size would I be looking at if I went 15 x 10.50? Would there be any rubbing on the inner tire wall?



dukeboy_318 said:
Then I'd say super stock rear leafs or a triangulated 4 link.

As mentioned above, the frame will.limit you either way
Click to expand...
A quick search for super stock rear leafs found this:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Mopar-Performance/312/P4120864/10002/-1?parentProductId=

Are the competition the same as 'super stock'?
 
Expire said:
Hey everyone, I'm getting ready to dive into building my duster and was trying to plane what size tire/wheel I want in the rear since I want to run a staggered set up.

I read that you can fit 10.5s in the rear with just the spring location kit and no tub. But I would probably end up trying to tub it anyways.

I also heard you can do the same (if not a little more) with the 4Link kit.

What are the pros / cons of each? Is one more stable, rated higher, will I be able to run larger wheels with one than the other?

Thanks for the help!
Click to expand...

If you tub it, you better run 7s in the 1/4 mile or you'll get endless ridicule. IMO run the 10.5s....plenty of very fast cars with that much tire and less.
 
451Cuda said:
If you tub it, you better run 7s in the 1/4 mile or you'll get endless ridicule. IMO run the 10.5s....plenty of very fast cars with that much tire and less.
Click to expand...

Damn, you're probably right. I was just going to build a 318 to shut up a couple friends in their subarus.. so yeah, tubbing might not be in my best interest. I just really like the staggered look as well.

roccodart440 said:
Offset shackles

http://www.manciniracing.com/ofshacset.html
Click to expand...
Would these work in the same was as camber plates would on an import car?
 
x2 /\ /\ /\

Small tire cars win the street car shootout at the track near me every year.
 
Expire said:
Damn, you're probably right. I was just going to build a 318 to shut up a couple friends in their subarus.. so yeah, tubbing might not be in my best interest. I just really like the staggered look as well.


Would these work in the same was as camber plates would on an import car?
Click to expand...


If you're only running a 318, you're gonna be pushing maybe, maybe 350 horse, I'd just got with the superstock springs and an adjust pinion stubber, some good shocks and be done then.
 
I ran a 9 x 28 tire on the street 25 years ago and it hooked great with a 11 second 440 in an A-body. I know tires have vastly improved since then, NO need for full tubs anymore unless you're a very serious player. In fact I beat several fully tubbed cars off the line LOL.
 
dukeboy_318 said:
If you're only running a 318, you're gonna be pushing maybe, maybe 350 horse, I'd just got with the superstock springs and an adjust pinion stubber, some good shocks and be done then.
Click to expand...

Sounds like a plan, Version 1 was gonna be a 318, built to around 350, 8 3/4 and I guess competition leafs/shackles/relocation

Then building up a 360 on the side for version 2..

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Thanks for the answers, as always you guys seem to know everything! Looking forward to building this winter!
 
Expire said:
Sounds like a plan, Version 1 was gonna be a 318, built to around 350, 8 3/4 and I guess competition leafs/shackles/relocation

Then building up a 360 on the side for version 2..

---

Thanks for the answers, as always you guys seem to know everything! Looking forward to building this winter!
Click to expand...

keep in mind, it takes more power to turn a taller, wider tire. So it's a balance between that and traction.
 
451Cuda said:
NO need for full tubs anymore unless you're a very serious player. .
Click to expand...

Unless you just want the look.

Id I were the OP I'd run offset shackles.

Here are 10.50's with an offset shackle.
 

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Big tire 12.50 with mini tub
 

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roccodart440 said:
Big tire 12.50 with mini tub
Click to expand...

Looks great rocco!

I think I'll shoot for the 10.5s. Thanks for the advice and pics!

Oh one last question:
Will comp leafs give me a lot of wheel hop with 300-350ish HP? I don't want to hop and lost control while driving. I know the design of them will bend and force the rears upward.
 
Thanks, I've never been a fan of vinyl tops but it works well on this one.

I carried the theme through the build, i.e top, stripe, wheels, grill.
 
Expire said:
Looks great rocco!

I think I'll shoot for the 10.5s. Thanks for the advice and pics!

Oh one last question:
Will comp leafs give me a lot of wheel hop with 300-350ish HP? I don't want to hop and lost control while driving. I know the design of them will bend and force the rears upward.
Click to expand...

No, the springs are designed to handle high horse power. Your HP level is below stock big block people mover engine. Never mind the actual HP big blocks that were used. The MP S/S springs are called that for a reason. Think! "SUPER STOCK" should bring to mind a class of drag racing (1970's) that the springs are designed for.

So how much power will the take and perform? Good question that I can only answer as, my very good friend raced his fully ported Indy headed, roller cammed 500 cube stroker on a really nice effort, full interior '69 Dart, all steel except the fiberglass hood into the mid 9's on Super Stock springs pulling the wheels off the ground every launch. Considering the full weight of this beasty, there was a lot of power to get the wheels up and moving it into the 9 sec range.

All on Super Stock springs.
 
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