408 Build suggestions

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HI everyone, first time posting on the forum, but have used this website for lots of great info.

Looking for suggestions on a 408 (from a 360) build I am planning on doing. I am looking at a budget build so need some information/suggestions on what would work great. I am looking for great low and mid range power. I have several sets of 360 heads, I do not believe any of them have 2.02 valves. If I have a set with those valves I would use them. I dont want to buy the edddys because I have plenty of heads to choose from. What bottom end stoker kits is the best without breaking the bank. What cam do you guys think would be a good suggestion?. I plan on putting the motor in a body 4 speed car. Not set on rear end gears yet but also open to suggestions. Will have the usual stuff headers , msd ignition, either a 650 or 750 holley.

Thanks in advance
 
Are we building a racing engine or street cruiser.......
you can get a complete kit from Summit....forged crank or cast crank....forged pistons or hyper pistons....
kind of need to know where you are going with this....
 
70aarcuda said:
Are we building a racing engine or street cruiser.......
you can get a complete kit from Summit....forged crank or cast crank....forged pistons or hyper pistons....
kind of need to know where you are going with this....
Click to expand...


Thanks, I meant to add this info but forgot. It will be street use
 
Get your best 360 head cut for 2.02 valves and do a simple bowl blend 1/2" up past the new seat. They will not be induction hardened so if you can get 2.02 seats installed, even better. A cast stroker crank is pretty tough if your not going to go crazy on RPM or power adder. They are inexpensive now China as casting them. Biggest expense will be pistons. Cast/hyper/forged. Up to you and your power expectation. Have a plan and HP target and build to that with each component. Cam manufacturers will assist on stroker apps. Best if you call them with your expectations. Not much more than a shelf grind.
 
lol said:
Id rather not say, sorry
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Area 51....
images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSbLRydW6ktziBSmnjdP6320L_7OiWdvGfli1X2uzSxaOOYcztG&s.jpg
 
For Street use I would probably use a cast crank and I beam rods. The 1.88 heads will work just fine. You can always upgrade when your budget allows. I'm not suggesting anything I haven't already done and documented on this forum.
All the money I spent getting 202's in my iron heads and accompanying work in my opinion was the wrong direction. You can now have Speedmaster heads sent to your door with 202 valves in aluminum for the same amount is having work done to your cast-iron heads..
My-2...
 
If you go with cast crank....use a Scat crank....you could reuse the stock rods...

cheapest scat crank these days is out of CNC Motorsports...
a year ago I found Wiseco forged stroker pistons for 400 bucks including rings....so shop around....use a weighted balancer and flexplate to save money on balancing...cast cranks do not need narrowed bearing...cheaper...
 
IIRC there are some stroker pistons for sale here. May have to bore to fit but for what they cost, boreing will still put you ahead. If your really on a budget, you can bevel standard bearings to fit full radiused forged cranks. Narrow bearings are not mandatory. But if you bought a forged crank, then your budget was a little bigger than mine was. After I sent $249 shipped for an eagle cast stroker crank, I find out they sent me the forged part number! OOPS! :lol: Thats how I found you could mod the already bought cast crank bearings to fit the forged fillet radius cranks.
 
buy a scat cast crank internally balance rotating assy.

Look into the true full cost of rebuilding your old heads. Compare to assembled aftermarket heads.

Then machining costs will just be for bore and deck. Unless you can get a good deal on complete head rebuilding.
 
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I just went through this on my build. I looked at buying everything separate, but it was less money to just buy the kit. If you are going to redo the stock rods, it cost close to the same of buying new ones. The best pricing is to wait until Jeg's or Summit does their $100 off anything deal. Plus you get free shipping from either place. I ordered directly from Scat since they sold to me at the discounted Jeg's price, included free shipping, plus did a piston substitution for me. Also, for an extra $200, I bought the internally balanced kit. Just my experience.
 
Buy the Eldlebrock heads you get more money into your old heads and still have old heads. 750 carb no smaller. EFI would be the ultimate, MSD is a good choice digital 6 would be my choice. More overlap on the cam the more compression you can run on the street. less overlap less compression needed for low end torque. I like mid range torque on the street with 355 - 391 gear set. Nice idle yet still drivable with stick shift cars. shoot for 9.5-1 to 10-1 compression for a performance street car. Detonation can be controlled with cam choice Low lift more duration such as an off the turn oval track cam. for the street. Just what I have seen worked for me with pump gas use on the street.
 
Well all of your iron heads and roll the money over into aluminum heads. @j par , would you be so kind as to post your head thread for lol? The speed master heads are inexpensive as compared to an iron head rebuild but also perform a whole lot better.

I second the whole kit purchase. It’s the EZ button and there’s no harm in it. Once you take your block to the machinist or a check up and work to get it ready, ask the machinist to give you a minimum piston over bore size. Thicker cylinder walls make or keep the power up over a larger thinner cylinder wall from an overbore. The over ore only adds a few inches. Overbore the block only as needed. This is a longevity move.

Cam suggestions rely on the below as well as the exact intended usage and expected / wanted power levels.

What is your year, make, model, weight, trans, rear gear and intended tire size? Power level sought and/or ET goal?
 
Scat cast should be good for a budget build. Its tough to get enough head flow for a stroker with any small block unless you go high end. Cast irons are probably a false economy if they need much work.
 
Just for a reference I bought the cast scat crank, scat I-beam rods, and forged pistons as a kit from Jags for I think just under $1, 400.. I broke it all in at the drag strip over four years ago and have done nothing but tortured the combination. I need only to go out and touch the key and have it run perfect to this day...
 
More Cheapskate fun facts for you...
I went from Total stock Mopar ignition to full msd6al, distributor, wires, coil the whole nine yards and did not pick up even one-tenth in the quarter mile..
after the second season I decided I wanted the 202 valves in my heads and put even more money into my factory iron heads... I have so much money into them I couldn't even resell them in good conscience... last month there was a sale on Speedmaster for 30% off and I got a set of brand new aluminum heads sent to my door with 202 valves for $820... I desperately wish that choice was available back then...
 
Also I'm not saying I don't enjoy some of the benefits of the MSD being the rev limiter and such.. but it's not the first thing I would turn to to make horsepower.. maybe just have your distributor recurved..
 
j par said:
More Cheapskate fun facts for you...
I went from Total stock Mopar ignition to full msd6al, distributor, wires, coil the whole nine yards and did not pick up even one-tenth in the quarter mile..
Click to expand...

I have seen and heard this so many times it’s crazy. All I tell people is, “I told you so....”
 
I used a scat rotating assy for my 408. Beat the piss out of it. Still kicking.
Only $1500 I think for the assy

I know you won't divulge your secret location. But I'm in Reno. If you need help hit me up, if I'm not busy I don't mind helping fellow mopar guys.
 
dogbreath said:
Better off rebuilding the 360 with good heads then the 408 with stock heads.
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considering he wants low to mid grunt for a street car. 408 even with iron heads would have gobs of low end and mid range torque. Perfect for street car and fun to boot.
 
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