6.1 cam swap. Big deal?

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Yes that's still a relatively small cam. So it will work fine for daily driving.
 
all the same price at inertia. choppy but every day usuage is no problem. And more torque. Should be my way then... :) I don't have the specs on hand now but please can you compare with the compcam I posted ealier? That one is used but already here in germany... But if the compcam is not neary the same i buy the inertia you have.

Thank you!!!!
 
Keep an eye out Buschi on other forums like LXForums and ModernMopar Forum for used cams from people either going back to stock or upgrading.
 
ok. great.

used cam from oversea? What if it is worn? no, better buy new. Its not cheap but after putting almost 10k USD into this swap I don't save in a used cam. ( the one from my buddy, he owns a mopar parts shop, the only official in germany . thats different. But if the cam is close to stock its wasted money. I order the inertia :)

Thanks guys! ( no money for caltracs anymore :( have to build them by my own now )
 
FWIW - the SRT MAX PLUS has nothing like the chop that my Solid flat tappet 244@ .50 with 392 cubes in my old stroker.

You need to understand...a lot of these LX guys are comparing the Max plus to a factory hyd roller....If you've had any experience with solid flat tappets..these Hyd Rollers are as smooth as Keira Knightleys chest!
 
Buschi340 said:
not really knowing what you trying to say.....

Keiro who's chest? Show me.... :)
Click to expand...

A british actress with a small chest measurement - therefore her chest is " smooth". Ie....no "bumps"....

So I am saying that the off the shelf LX hyd roller cams are not "lumpy" like old school cams.
 
mhhh, and I loooove bumps. and a female britt with small bumps exists? thats against all rumors... :D

You say that evelution on cams especially if you compare to a flat tappet cam made a big progress? Lumpy you mean smooth acceleration from the bottom without noises and stumbles etc?

Ok, to finalize this. So far nobody can say anything against the SRT MAX PLUS from experience. Right? So I go ahead and order.... :)
 
I'm sure the SRT Max Plus will be fine - There are limits on what you can use with the stock pistons, so there won't be huge differences between the off the shelf stuff.
 
As far as I know, as it is a roller cam, just a light coating of oil so nothing is dry should suffice...
 
It's not too terribly bad to do. I swapped out mine with the engine in the car. The longest part of the process is if you have to swap valve springs. I borrowed the tool from someone on the board so I didn't have to remove heads, but it just takes time. The crank pulley gave me other issues, but that was a tool problem for the most part.
 
springs are new already. changed last year after the OEM broke. its just cam out, cam in... chain has 12 k miles. can't be bad.
 
Should be pretty straightfoward for you then. Pulling the cover makes a bit of a mess and the more coolant you can get out first the better. Since the oil pan sticks under the front cover, any coolant you don't get out of the water pump passages will dump right into the pan. Changing the oil after is a good idea, but you know there will always be a little bit of coolant left. Probably nothing to worry about, but annoying nonetheless.
 
is it you? Rattus Patrolus ? :D ok, cool pix. nothing new. hope without cooler, grill it will work in the car. water out, oil can stay. try to have no water in the oil.
Thanks.
hope my lifters will stick up in the holes. I work usually alone. Hate people around! :D
 
huhuhu, just read your install notes. I didn't add spacers and shims. I simply dropped them in.... bad????

PART ALERT

So my first resolution is to buy some decent valve springs – I’m told the PSI LS1511ML spring is a straight drop in and ideally rated for the cam I am running.

But be aware – you WILL need custom spacers and shims – unless you use the factory “cages”…and they are not ideal…..

Craig from THITEK heads helped me sort out the issue – give him a call!
 
The PSI 1511 can be used with the old cages - or using a locater and shim

Running it without either will result in lower seat and open pressures...defeating the reason for the change - ...but the real concern is that the spring may move around on the pad.

You really need to get in touch with Chris from Modern Muscle on here...or contact Craig from Thitek..and ask them to ship the correct shims and locaters.
 
New can is in. Timing Marks are a joke. Can't see behind the oil pump. So cam on 12:00 and crank key on 2:00.
Markings on the chain is for what? They never meet again when turning the crank. Guess it's just a factory help when you not devide sprockets and chain?
 
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