phildart
dartparts12
Where does the red power wire from the 67 convert top switch locate to?
67 Convertible Top Switch
- Thread starter phildart
- Start date
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To the red power lug on the back of the amp gauge!
phildart
dartparts12
Thank You
Just an idea:
I installed relays to relive the 30 amp load from the top motor dash switch in 2008. Those switches are hard to find, appear to be under sized, and are getting old. Now the dash switch handles very low amperage as a trigger for two relays that do the heavy work.
I utilized most of the existing conductors as they were in good condition. Here is how it is wired:
I installed relays to relive the 30 amp load from the top motor dash switch in 2008. Those switches are hard to find, appear to be under sized, and are getting old. Now the dash switch handles very low amperage as a trigger for two relays that do the heavy work.
I utilized most of the existing conductors as they were in good condition. Here is how it is wired:
Jim Lusk
Well-Known Member
I just used the relays from a LeBaron that we parted out along with the wiring. We put those into my son's Dart and I have all the parts for my Barracuda. We also put the top switch in my son's console and will do the same with my Barracuda.
pyrojim
Well-Known Member
So, there is three wires to the switch. Red, yellow and brown. Also in the harness is a 12ga red with tracer. One side to the amp post, the other side to what??
Thanks.
Thanks.
Oops, misspoke above! Red with white tracer to the amp post! Plain red and yellow to the harness connection in the kick panel that goes back to the pump motor!
pyrojim
Well-Known Member
Hey Geof.
If the red with the tracer goes to the amp post, what does the other end attach to?
Tyanks
Chk this link out, keep in mind it is for 68 cuda
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1968/68BarracudaA.jpg
When we worked on dads 67 fastback we found wiring schematics that had changes done partway thru model year.
I will chk to see what I can find specific to yours
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1968/68BarracudaA.jpg
When we worked on dads 67 fastback we found wiring schematics that had changes done partway thru model year.
I will chk to see what I can find specific to yours
pyrojim
Well-Known Member
I have the schematics, it shows the three from the switch, but no red with a tracer? I know it has to be drawing power somewhere, and based on the 12ga wire, lots of it. I won't be ready to assemble the car for a couple months, but I'm trying to shake everything out. I'm probably going to put in the relays as above.
Thanks
Jim
Thanks
Jim
Ok, since the op asked about 67, well go with that year first. The red/white goes from the top lug of the switch into the harness and comes back out and over to the amp gauge. The plug on the switch is a brown and yellow, not red as I reported above! It plugs into the Twp blades of the switch that are in line. The outboard blade is not used on mine.
I tried, but I can't get a look up into the 66 to see how that switch is wired, but I can tell you that the red/white comes down from the switch to a small solenoid mounted in the kick panel. It is mounted to one side of the solenoid and out from the other lug goes a solid red back to the motor with the yellow. Can't see anything up under the dash to see what happens up there!! Geof
I tried, but I can't get a look up into the 66 to see how that switch is wired, but I can tell you that the red/white comes down from the switch to a small solenoid mounted in the kick panel. It is mounted to one side of the solenoid and out from the other lug goes a solid red back to the motor with the yellow. Can't see anything up under the dash to see what happens up there!! Geof
The 1st link to the schematic, red w/tracer is on the 1st link on the lower right. If you trace it back it connects to black wire that goes to ammeter.
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1967/67BarracudaA.jpg
2nd link, you will see bottom left of schematic that red/wtracer goes to fusebox. Hope it helps. BUT no guarantees that Im correct.
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1967/67BarracudaB.jpg
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1967/67BarracudaA.jpg
2nd link, you will see bottom left of schematic that red/wtracer goes to fusebox. Hope it helps. BUT no guarantees that Im correct.
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1967/67BarracudaB.jpg
pyrojim
Well-Known Member
Thanks Geof! Appreciate it!
Ok, update again! Looking at your pic of your harness Jim, I can tell you that the red/white with the eyelet up by the switch goes to the amp gauge, the other end down at the bottom with the bent eyelet and the spade plug on it goes to the solenoid thingy mounted in the kick panel! When Nella gets off her computer and goes to bed, I can include a pic here of the solenoid in question for you to see!! Geof
pyrojim
Well-Known Member
Thanks Geof!
OK Jim, heres the beef!! The red/white wire coming down is the wire in the left of the pic, and you can see the bent tang fixed to the solenoid. The other side wire is red and comes out and goes into the harness that goes to the back. Hope this helps, Geof
Wow, that pic sucks!! Its so dark out there the camera wont focus before the flash!! Sorry!!
Wow, that pic sucks!! Its so dark out there the camera wont focus before the flash!! Sorry!!
pyrojim
Well-Known Member
Ok. Here are the diagrams and photos. Looks like I'm missing the 30 amp circuit breaker that you're showing Geof. I appreciate your help, I wonder if those are available? I got this car as a basket case so I didn't have the know how from taking it apart. Got new harness' but they don't come complete.
Again, thanks.
Again, thanks.
pyrojim
Well-Known Member
Another
pyrojim
Well-Known Member
Body side of the top motor harness
Jim Lusk:
That is a good option for non-original stock appearing fix. I am still using my top switch in my unrestored 72,000 mi 1982 Mark Cross LeBaron ordered Jan of '82. LOL That is why I made a few behind dash circuit reconfigurations keeping that stock look and function of the 67 Dart.
That is a good option for non-original stock appearing fix. I am still using my top switch in my unrestored 72,000 mi 1982 Mark Cross LeBaron ordered Jan of '82. LOL That is why I made a few behind dash circuit reconfigurations keeping that stock look and function of the 67 Dart.
pyrojim
Well-Known Member
I really like the idea of relays in the convertible top motor, but not be an electrician, i'm confused. The first diagram shows the existing wiring out of my 66 dart. The second one shows what I think is proper placement of the relays. My question is, on WJAJR's diagram it shows the existing feed going ????Just an idea:
I installed relays to relive the 30 amp load from the top motor dash switch in 2008. Those switches are hard to find, appear to be under sized, and are getting old. Now the dash switch handles very low amperage as a trigger for two relays that do the heavy work.
I utilized most of the existing conductors as they were in good condition. Here is how it is wired:
Everyday takes me closer.
Thanks
66Dvert
Working on my custom car parts again!
IF your going to relays, just use a fused power wire, yeah I know the original isn't fused at the Ampmeter ....but.......... (low voltage if using a relay) the relays(they get the resettable Circuit breaker inline if possible) large gauge wire) carry the heavy load so a large gauge wire going to the switch isn't needed.
If you follow WAJARS diagram (or the opt pic in your post). you'll see that it goes to a circuit breaker that does connect to the AMP lug.
pyrojim
Well-Known Member
So, I add a secondary power feed to the switch? There is only one feed now, red with tracer. It comes off the post, into the circuit breaker, routes back up to the switch. But if that now feeds the relays, I need a low amp secondary feed to the switch? From the accessory position on the fuse block??? Wjajr, where did you mount the relays? Under the dash? Sorry for my ignorance but I really want to get this right!
pyrojim
Well-Known Member
Anyone????
66Dvert
Working on my custom car parts again!
I'm not home right now or I'd get pictures for ya. but yes ,just use a smaller gauge wire from the fuse box to the switch. That's enough to trigger the higher amp relay wiring.
I used 2 Bosch (I think they were 50 amp or so)relays to help save the switch. and just used lower power wire fused (15 amp or less needed) at the fuse box wire to power the switch that triggers the relays. I think of them as 2 separate circuits connected together in the relay like contactors for stoves and such. it takes a 110v wire from the switch and when you flip that switch (top switch)it sends power to the contactors (relays)that then activates and allows the 220v to go to the heating elements. Of course the stove only heats UP so I hadda think 2
to get the DOWN.you can take (I did) "Daniel Stern" lighting wiring diagram and substitute the high beam wiring as UP and low beam wiring as DOWN. and if I need 2 speed fans for the radiators I'm relaying them the same way but moving everything to an enclosure to make it neater.
I take the main large diameter(fused by maxi amp fuses in the engine compartment.) gauge power to the relays(mine are in the kick panel by the connector,but they could also be under the dash on the drivers side by extending the large gauge wire up to the dash). I have mine setup as fused full time power versus keyed power. I want to be able to raise and lower the top without having to start the car.
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