73 Duster build named Fred
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We had a bigger cam we wanted to use but with his SPS flat top pistons they were very limited on valve to piston clearance. I bought this one used for 100.00 and it got hurt when a damn Comp cams roller lifter with 50 runs on them broke a tie-bar.
Now I’m starting to rethink my 727 build. Should I add a manual valve body and trans brake?
Ironracer
Gearhead
Those are pretty sick, Ott!
My son ran my old CRT 727 after I switched to a powerglide. He loved the transbrake but he only had an 8 3/4 rearend in the car so it had limited use. With the 5600 stall converter he ran almost exactly the same with or without the transbrake. Honestly if you don’t have a valve body I would get one with a transbrake then you can go either way. Plus it probably holds its value better.
Stroker build or not, if it’s not a race car only then it would be for me a hyper-U piston and a dyno session to determine the engines out out in order to help with a converter choice for what ever trans you to with. I’d do the 727 since it’s in your hands. No sense not to use it and spend more money on a core 904.
Crank is a forged unit. I’d run forged aftermarket 4340 rods.
Flat top Hypers.
Crank is a forged unit. I’d run forged aftermarket 4340 rods.
Flat top Hypers.
Spend the money on the heads instead of the stroker kit is my thinking. 360 has gobs of torque already as designed when put together right.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
How come you prefer the hypereutectic over a forged piston for a street/strip deal?
Bobzilla
Well-Known Member
Where was this one installed? Did you run this one on gasoline or alcohol, or maybe you tried both? Just curious. I forget if your son's car was on alcohol.
Any reason not to build the 4" arm stroker? 360 or 340 based, these things will put a smile on your face. My 408 is like a little kid always wanting to go, go, go! The torque is amazing and you can build the upstairs power with cam/heads/intake as you want. Mine doesn't have enough cyl head (Eddie RPM's) to make big power but still manages low 11's.
My target is always 4 degrees advanced. If I have to go 5 to get there no problem. His car has a 750 APD alcohol carb on it. I’m guessing under 11.1 for sure with the 1008 felpro gasket, open chamber 340 style Edelbrock head, plus chamber work that I do.
Which crank is a forged unit? The stock crank?
On a full out ported Edelbrock headed combo the ET differential is about .30 max on a roller cam to roller cam example. If the money saved running a stock stroke combo allows your budget to buy Bamm roller lifter and a rollers cam instead of a solid lifter cam which combo would be faster.
I should thank you now (before I forget) for helping me to spend my money! lol
Just called the trans builder and added a VB with brake.
Who's the go to for full blown porting on RPM heads?
Not if you plan to drive it on the street. I (stupidly
) passed on a 68 charger with 440 because it had a reverse manual valve body 727 back in 1992. It would have been cake to switch it back to a regular automatic. All because I didn't want to mess with shifting an automatic on the street as a daily driver, and bought a 72 or 73 318 scamp instead. That scamp was a great daily driver though.
Are you on Facebook. If so look up Rod and Vic as they have a nice cnc’d head available
I am on FB and will look them up. Not looking to buy a set of ported heads but instead, I would like to send a used set of RPM heads off to be ported. If I can make them work, I'll do that instead of buying a new set of TFS heads.
It will be driven on the street once in a blue moon if ever and never on a long drive or in traffic.... I'm too spoiled to be driving around without creature comforts. lolNot if you plan to drive it on the street. I (stupidly
I would consider the M/T ET Pro vs the streets, they have better bite.Already figured it out. I am building a real basic purpose built Street/Strip car with a fresh 408 stroker, built 727 with 2600-2800 rpm stall converter, Speedway Motors fabricated 9" rear, Caltracs suspension, minimal interior or exterior work will be done to the car (basically new carpets and seat covers, wet sand exterior and clear coat). Will be on factory 14x6 rallys in front, 15x8 rallys in rear with 275/60R15 MT ET Street R's.
As for how much I want to spend.... like anyone else, as little as possible but I have budget to do all the work listed above. Hopefully I can do everything once and not waste time and money redoing something I should have done differently the first time.... lol
Please fire away with advice, suggestions, tips or anything else. I am all ears and anxious to get started on this thing.
Yeah, I would have to agree with you. I have changed direction a few times from the time I created this thread until now and will be a street legal track build that will rarely be driven on the street so tires will change. Tire size and wheel choice will probably change as well although I already have the rallye wheels so I might still have street legal tires mounted on them.
Now to decide what size wheel and combo to go with.
Uh....dunno but suspect you already have the answer? No, im sure you do.
Guess I'm just hooked on a stroker having one. Fun factor on the street, track times, etc. Heck, if/when I get to my 440 Charger, it may end up a 383/400 stroker of some sort instead. The stroke length tq increase is intoxicating!! I should also add that I tend toward the simpler is better for me camp. A simple stroke length increase compared to a roller cam setup and winding it out to make power...I like them both but for me, I'm stuck on the stroke length increase. Maybe add the roller setup later!!
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I get the whole addiction to torque. My daily driver and my weekend cruiser both give me more smiles per mile than I can handle.... The Duster will be for breaking hearts on the track. lol
Bobzilla
Well-Known Member
IMM engines in California has a good reputation here on the forum. Maybe you could check with them to see if they are taking in porting work on used heads.
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