74 Dart possessed by Satan...

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jesuschrysler

jesuschrysler

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Okay that got your attention. ;)

I'm the noob with the Dart and fried the starter recently. ..

Well I've replaced everything under the hood (I think) relating to the ignition.

New starter. Again.

Damn thing doesn't want to start. Intermittently. It really feels like it only catches and starts if you back off the key Juuust right. Sounds silly I know.

But I've been reading posts and saw the sticky on ignition switch replacement. It frightens me.

What might it be? I will take it to a shop but if I can fix it myself. ..
Sorry. Frustrated because I want to drive my car.


Matt
 
It might be the starter relay, or or neutral saftey switch. What defines a fried starter?
Oops! Not that, sorry thought it would not not crank.
 
Starter stayed running while car was.
Not sure I've replaced neutral safety switch.
Will check.


Matt
 
There may also be connection problems at bulkhead. Might be time to get a meter and start probing to see what works.
 
There are 2 wires that feed ignition/spark. One is hot in the switch start position, the other hot in switch run position. Sounds like that's where your problem is.
Replacing the ignition switch isn't hard labor. It's just a matter of having all the right tools and instructions.
Garage labor rate is the same whether the tech is bent over under the hood or sitting in the drivers seat. I personally would rather change your ignition switch than to change your oil. LOL
 
Another dumb question:

If I were to replace the neutral safety switch should I just put a new gasket on the transmission pan?


Matt
 
Since I'm sure it's the original one?

I swear everything on this car is 39 years old lol.

:)


Matt
 
Maybe we should clarify.. starter operating without fail but engine doesn't start, or starter operation fails ?
Neutral safety switch is screwed into the side of the trans case so filter service, pan gasket isn't related.
 
Gotcha on the switch.

Clarification: starter cranks but engine does not catch.

Then sometimes it lights right off.


Matt
 
If the starter operates / turns the engine every time the switch is turned to the start position the neutral safety switch is not the problem.
There are several other components besides the ignition switch that could be your no start problem. If you want to diagnose and pinpoint the problem you're going to need a volts meter.
 
Red is Right. If the starter cranks every time, it is NOT the NSS

PLEASE POST a link to any previous related threads. It is NOT a great idea to start a new thread on what is probably the 'same' problem

You top suspects are

A...problems / bad connections in the bulkhead (firewall) connector.

B...Problems at the ammeter connections

C...Problems at the ignition switch HARNESS CONNECTOR. This is the connector which dangles out at the bottom of the dash and goes "up into" the column. THERE ARE TWO of these, one for ignition, and one for the turn signal switch

D...Somewhat more rare, the switch itself.

E...And in very very rare cases there's a factory welded splice in the black ammeter wire up under the dash, taped up in the harness. These can, do, and might fail. They are RARE.

You need to get a meter and do some troubleshooting. You can throw parts at these until you are blue in the face. You can also spend one 'ell of a lot of money on parts

We can help you step by step

WHAT YOU NEED

1....A decent multimeter

2...Some clip / test leads, such as from Radio Shack

3...A 12 V test lamp from any auto parts store

4....The ability to follow destructions exactly, pay attention, and post back here

5....Sometimes very helpful is the ability to take reasonably good quality photos of a wiring problem area so we can look things over

6....Last but hardly least is to download or otherwise buy / get a FACTORY service manual

Here:

However, 73 is the newest we have. You should BUY a 74 manual either in paper or on CD

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970088617

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31
 
I was admonished for not posting a link to a similar thread I have here... for what it's worth it's entitled "Help! I think I fried my starter"....

So far I have replaced the ballast resistor, ecu, starter relay and the starter itself.

I am not mechanically inclined but once I gather some tools to check things out I'm certainly going to try.

Appreciate everyones input and patience with a slow fella.

Matt
 
This probably isn't helpful but this is everything I've replaced under the hood... and a shot of what you say is the ignition harness wiring?


Matt
 

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No1 "right now" thing to do..........

Remove the ECU, and the VR and scrape the firewall and mounting ears clean. Remount using star lock washers. The ECU MUST and that is MUST be grounded to operate
 
67Dart273 said:
No1 "right now" thing to do..........

Remove the ECU, and the VR and scrape the firewall and mounting ears clean. Remount using star lock washers. The ECU MUST and that is MUST be grounded to operate
Click to expand...



that just what i was thinking.looks pretty rusty
 
Yep. Your 2nd photo, the ECU. That rusty sheet-metal screw is the only path to ground. Without that, no spark. I don't know why the engineers relied on that (cheap?), but a dedicated ground wire on the case would be smart. A constant issue for many here 40 yrs later.

If that doesn't work, try jumpering 12 V direct to the left side of the ballast (1st photo), i.e. the side with the jumper between the terminals. That will bypass your key switch (hot wire the car). To do this, stuff a bare wire in either terminal or get a fancy piggy-back spade. Don't leave 12 V on long, just for testing. Too long and it can overheat your ECU or coil. Overnight and it will discharge your battery.
 
Stupid question here, but have you checked to see if you are getting spark to the plugs? Could be bad coil, distributor or even the voltage regulator. I've seen each of those cause what you are describing. But I'd check to see if you are getting spark at the plugs and then work your way back.
 
Update:

I replaced all the original bolts holding on the electronics. ..
Even tried to replace the "emergency start switch" as it looks horribly corroded... no dice on that so I cleaned it up with a wire brush best I could and put it back on as well...

Initial reaction? Success!!!

She popped right off and I drove around the block and shut down. Waited 5 minutes turned the key and vroom.

;)

Then waited a 1/2 hour and tried again. Instant fire.

Now I need some idiots guide to tuning a carburetor correctly. I have jacked with the fast idle and idle screws so much in the past they are waaay out of whack I am sure.

So bear with me as I try and bring that back to normal.

And thanks so much so far for all the help. I'm going to keep at it dammit.

:)


Matt
 
Set the curb idle screw first before the fast idle. Do you have a tach or a vacuum gauge? With the car warmed up, timing set correctly, crank the idle mixture screw in til either you see a drop in rpms or vacuum, then slowly go out again til you get the best vacuum reading or the highest rpm reading with the leanest mix. Cranking in leans out the mixture, cranking out fattens it. Then adjust the curb idle screw for the correct curb idle.
For the fast idle screw, with the engine running, set the fast idle screw on the 2nd highest step of the fast idle cam and then adjust it in or out til it reads the desired rpm. Kicking down the throttle should release the fast idle can and the rpm should return to the curb idle you set before. It it does not, look for a bad vacuum diaphragm or something hanging up in the choke linkage or a bad choke coil.
 
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