tooslow
Well-Known Member
A road racer and considering am 833 coupled to my built high revving 383, thoughts appreciated !
I had a 69 Road Runner with a 23-spline and center force clutch, dynoed at 660hp . Never had a problem with the transmission, but broke the rear end yoke in half.
Junk clutches breaks transmissions and drivetrain. Doesn't matter whose parts you have.
Good to hear, same setup I`ll be running behind my 440 with much less HP.I had a 69 Road Runner with a 23-spline and center force clutch, dynoed at 660hp . Never had a problem with the transmission, but broke the rear end yoke in half.
Would you please list the junk clutches that destroy drive train parts so we can avoid them?
I have run McCloud and Centerforce street and strip set ups in my cars and have had no problems with 18 spline and 23 spline transmissions (stock).
I did however, wreck a pinion bearing in my 440 23 spline 4 speed '69 Super Bee with some hard launches and sticky tires. A Dana 60 resolved that, like it should have.
I have had some bad luck with stock clutches slipping, but no drive train failures.
Thanks,
Tom.
Since you seem to have a hard on for anything I post, I consider ANY diaphragm pressure plate garbage, especially if it has the Centerforce weights on it. Ever try and balance one of those? You can't. You have to take it off, balance everything and then put it back on, so the balance job is off. JUNK.
Also, any system (and that's what you clutch is, a system) that uses over 2200 pounds of static pressure are parts breakers. Any paddle clutch that Ram or anyone else sells is JUNK. Any dual friction disc is a joke.
So put bite to them and you WILL run over parts. If you are a street tire guy then it's a bit different.
For me, junk is junk at any price.
So why don't you make it easy on us and tell us what clutches everyone should be running? Since that will be a much shorter list...
You wouldn't like what I run because it's a "race" piece and we all know you can't run race parts on the street.
That being said, any Long style cover, or a B&B Long finger cover ands a rag disc without a marcel and 2200 pounds of static to start. That would be my lowest of the low grade street clutches. Like I said, I run a "race" clutch in my daily driver.
But that would also require learning to tune clutches.
Humor me.
I don't care if I "like" it, I want to know what you run and why.
I run a lot of parts on my cars that most people don't like, but they're there for a purpose. So why do you run a race clutch in your daily?
Because IMHO, everything else is a complete waste of time, unless you have no inclination to learn about clutches. If you don't want to learn then get a center force. If you want to learn that you would fast find out why I say those other clutches are junk.
Man, you are talking in Riddles....
Don´t give anybody the feeling that all the available clutches are Junk only because you think you found the philosophers stone.
You don´t bring any fundamental Explanation for your Statements.
I drove centerforce dualfriction, stock and McCloud. No Problems at all.
What do you run, and why?
Simple question. We've already heard your opinion on the vast majority of clutches out there, and since they're all junk or a waste of time let's hear about yours.
Clutches are not that complicated. If I can learn enough physics to finish an aerospace engineering degree, you're not going to lose me explaining your clutch set up.
I don't consider a Borg & Beck Long pressure plate a race clutch in today's
world. Although they did start out that way decades ago.
It has always been my favorite clutch for a street or a vintage style race car.
I myself will need nothing better for my cars until I can no longer press the pedal.
I agree with yellow rose and it is a great clutch choice even if it was a bit difficult for you guys
to get it out of him. No offence meant to anyone.
Its a little stiff in the leg for a lot of guys in traffic but for myself worth the trade off.
I have to admit he had me going thinking he was holding back on some custom
billet multi disc 1000 HP $etup $$$$$.
It a great and affordable clutch.
Yup. If I was starting with nothing, I would use a 10.5 Long pressure plate and the SI disc. But I already had the BB/Long cover and flywheel.
Unless you are running something running in the low 8's I can't see the need for a multi disc clutch. I absolutely have no use for the dual disc 10 inch or larger clutches. The combined rotating weight makes it almost impossible to shift above 6500 RPM.
And if you already have a flywheel the BB/Long cover is a good deal. The issue is getting someone willing to make the cover adjustable. Although I ran mine unadjustable into the low 9's.