reynoldsc58
Member
Will it work and if not what trans do i need for the 360
A-833 with 360?
- Thread starter reynoldsc58
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daliant
Befuddled
It will work.
reynoldsc58
Member
ok
Running that now in my '73 Cuda. External balance.
Dartnut
Don't hate me because i'm beautiful
That's what I run in my '74 Dart Sport.
Check out my build thread for lots of info you can use.
Check out my build thread for lots of info you can use.
machinist11
New Member
I have a 64 dart gt with a 360 auto. It used to be a 4 speed car and I'm puttin it back that way the motor is about a 74 or so will any a833 fit and should I just get a 64 pedal ***. w/z bar and all. and should it work?
Woods74
Broke Senior
Yeah, it's called 'the experience'.
chryslerfat
Well-Known Member
I have no troubles out of mine in the 66
It is easier with a "A" or "F" body short tailshaft a833. What auto trans do you have now? There are different diameter bearing retainers, so you have to match your bellhousing to the bearing retainer. Check out Brewer's Performance to get a feel for the parts you will need to convert back to a 4 speed. Basically there are 2 systems. the Original with up to a 10 inch clutch. Swapping a later standard 10.5 inch clutch and the parts to make that work. There are a lot more choices with the 10.5 inch clutch setup. The 10 inch clutch will work but I'm thinking it will be lacking for a 360. You will also need a specially balanced flywheel for the 360, and check the crank for which pilot bushing you will need.
Here we go.
It's an involved project. Disregard those who just say it pops right in. You'll need the following:
1. Correct transmission (not the truck model) WITH the correct spine pattern for your new clutch, otherwise you'll have to source the correct input shaft and retainer.
2. New clutch disc, pressure plate. The Centerforce unit is great.
3. As mention earlier, you'll need a properly balanced flywheel.
4. Input roller bearing or bushing to drive into the crankshaft.
5. Correct size bell housing (10.5"), which comes in both car and truck applications, aluminum or steel.
6. Correct size fork pivot and fork, otherwise you'll never be able to push the pedal or the pedal won't push far enough to disengage the clutch.
7. Clutch pedal from donor car. Plus bushing and return spring.
8. Z-bar assembly (install new bushings!) and mounts or DIY hydraulic clutch kit
9. Crossmember
10. Crossmember transmission mounts
11. Shifter, correct shift linkages (there are differences between the A833 and A333 overdrive.
12. New or resized driveline
13. Speedo gear, maybe speedo cable
14. A cutting tool to cut the floor enough to allow for installation, but this isn't always necessary
Also, check out this article on modifying your clutch pedal arm. I've have to do this every time.
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/...12_four_speed_a_body_clutch_pedal_adjustment/
As you can see it's doable, but there's a learning curve. And it's obviously not just plug 'n play. I've done it a few times and I can tell you that it takes some money, time, and effort. But I also think it's well worth it.
-marcus
It's an involved project. Disregard those who just say it pops right in. You'll need the following:
1. Correct transmission (not the truck model) WITH the correct spine pattern for your new clutch, otherwise you'll have to source the correct input shaft and retainer.
2. New clutch disc, pressure plate. The Centerforce unit is great.
3. As mention earlier, you'll need a properly balanced flywheel.
4. Input roller bearing or bushing to drive into the crankshaft.
5. Correct size bell housing (10.5"), which comes in both car and truck applications, aluminum or steel.
6. Correct size fork pivot and fork, otherwise you'll never be able to push the pedal or the pedal won't push far enough to disengage the clutch.
7. Clutch pedal from donor car. Plus bushing and return spring.
8. Z-bar assembly (install new bushings!) and mounts or DIY hydraulic clutch kit
9. Crossmember
10. Crossmember transmission mounts
11. Shifter, correct shift linkages (there are differences between the A833 and A333 overdrive.
12. New or resized driveline
13. Speedo gear, maybe speedo cable
14. A cutting tool to cut the floor enough to allow for installation, but this isn't always necessary
Also, check out this article on modifying your clutch pedal arm. I've have to do this every time.
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/...12_four_speed_a_body_clutch_pedal_adjustment/
As you can see it's doable, but there's a learning curve. And it's obviously not just plug 'n play. I've done it a few times and I can tell you that it takes some money, time, and effort. But I also think it's well worth it.
-marcus
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