Advice on ‘74 Duster

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I made it back safely to Vegas with my new to me 74 duster! Now i feel like i finally belong as this is my first A body since my last one i sold back in 1989 or so.

The car did great on the trip, it was hot as heck coming across the desert and it never went over 220, usually was running 195 to 210. The car runs great and drives excellent and the manual brakes stop very well. The body is not perfect, it has rust bubbling on both quarters but not rotted thru and some previous repair work that may be bondo cracking the the rear filler panel and on the pasg. side quarter on the upper part. I feel good about my purchase as for what I have seen for sale I feel like I did ok. Thanks everyone for your help I appreciate it.
i forgot to check the K frame but the car tracks straight as an arrow at 70mph, steering is tight, The car is not what I'd call fast, but it has decent get up and go and nice smooth acceleration. It seems to idle high sometimes hen in park, not sure why yet.
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cool man, glad it worked out for you

what MPG did you get?

(im kidding, no one cares about MPGs)
 
A408Cuda said:
The body of this car looks OK, but I would be cautious, the duct taped overflow tank, the location that the mounted the MSD box, and no battery hold down along with hard to say but smallish looking rad. Its not these things in particular its more that there appear to be cobbled and if the cobbled on these things then where else did the halve *** stuff, I would definitely go over this car close before buying. I learned that lesson from this site on a 69 Cuda I was thinking about.
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I went and got a battery hold kit at pep boys, your standard J hook set up with a rubber brace that goes across the top...my problem is there isn’t anyway to hook the j hook to the bottom of the battery tray as it’s flush with the fenderwell. No way to hook it to anything! Any suggestions? I thought about drilling a hole through the tray so I could at least have somewhere to hook thank hook to, what do you think?
 
On my 66, the hole for the hook is in the inner wheel well about an inch up from the tray. The hook is shorter than the other side. When I had the parts store hold-down I had to cut some off the top of the j-hooks. A few months ago I finally bought a factory style hold down and got rid of that parts store one.
 
66fyssh said:
On my 66, the hole for the hook is in the inner wheel well about an inch up from the tray. The hook is shorter than the other side. When I had the parts store hold-down I had to cut some off the top of the j-hooks. A few months ago I finally bought a factory style hold down and got rid of that parts store one.
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ok cool I was wondering what that hole was for lol, thank you
 
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Ok, the J hooks I had were long so long that the one on the drivers fender, the wing nut wouldn’t tighten it down as it ran out of thread. SO, I added a few washers and nuts to close the gap, at least for now my battery is secure and it isn’t going anywhere. Removed that stupid battery handle also now it has a much cleaner look.
Anyone know where to get the proper J hook for it?
Thanks
 
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ledman said:
View attachment 1715357698 View attachment 1715357699 View attachment 1715357700 Ok, the J hooks I had were long so long that the one on the drivers fender, the wing nut wouldn’t tighten it down as it ran out of thread. SO, I added a few washers and nuts to close the gap, at least for now my battery is secure and it isn’t going anywhere. Removed they stupid battery handle also now it has a much cleaner look.
Anyone know where to get the proper J hook for it?
Thanks
Click to expand...

Try this

Auto Metal Direct Battery Hold-Downs A-280203

Or buy a die and extend the threads down the J-bolt.
 
well...I didn't do my homework well enough and got taken by the high of the buy. I am man enough to admit i screwed up and made an expensive mistake.
Go ahead, tell me "I told you so!" :mob:
Needless to say I feel really dumb:(
Dont get me wrong I like the car but haven't been able to even enjoy the car as it needs all these repairs. On the bright side The car is solid underneath. no rust.

My car is in the shop now getting the 904 trans rebuilt, it needs a new timing chain, motor mounts are both broken, radiator started leaking in multiple places and needs replaced and the msd box wasn't even working as it was hooked up backwards! Its fried now.
The distributor wasn't even the correct distributor for the car. Oh and just found out the gas tank is leaking too! I am replacing the carb also as it only has a 600 cfm carb and just seems way too small for this 360 so-getting a 750cfm edlebrock.

The headers are hitting more than the steering column as I first thought, they are touching everything underneath the car and are a generic header not even made for my car! Someone just stuffed them in there...:wtf:

Can anyone suggest any headers for my car? My friend says i should get shortie headers to get proper clearance.
:thankyou:
 
ledman said:
well...I didn't do my homework well enough and got taken by the high of the buy. I am man enough to admit i screwed up and made an expensive mistake.
Go ahead, tell me "I told you so!" :mob:
Needless to say I feel really dumb:(
Dont get me wrong I like the car but haven't been able to even enjoy the car as it needs all these repairs. On the bright side The car is solid underneath. no rust.

My car is in the shop now getting the 904 trans rebuilt, it needs a new timing chain, motor mounts are both broken, radiator started leaking in multiple places and needs replaced and the msd box wasn't even working as it was hooked up backwards! Its fried now.
The distributor wasn't even the correct distributor for the car. Oh and just found out the gas tank is leaking too! I am replacing the carb also as it only has a 600 cfm carb and just seems way too small for this 360 so-getting a 750cfm edlebrock.

The headers are hitting more than the steering column as I first thought, they are touching everything underneath the car and are a generic header not even made for my car! Someone just stuffed them in there...:wtf:

Can anyone suggest any headers for my car? My friend says i should get shortie headers to get proper clearance.
:thankyou:
Click to expand...

I don't think this is a "told you so" moment. Sure, some of those issues would have shown up with a thorough inspection. And any time a car has had a bunch of work done a thorough inspection is necessary because you don't know what corners "the other guy" cut. But some of the issues you bring up are probably a result of driving the car more. I think a lot of people, myself included, tend to forget that most people don't drive these cars all that much. Especially if we're about to sell them. Then the new buyer goes out and drives the car all over the place because it's new and fun, and issues that have been lurking pop up. Yes, sometimes the previous owner is a shady bastard. But sometimes they may not have known that a bunch of crap was about to go wrong because they'd had it parked for 6 months. Same stuff would have happened to them if they dragged it out and put a few hundred miles on it all at once.

Anyway, onto some of your problems. How did you figure out the car needs a timing chain? What was it doing that made you suspect that? You last said the car ran great across the desert...

As for the ignition, toss the MSD box and just buy a "plug and play" electronic distributor. There are several out there, I've run a couple of the Pertronix Flamethrower billet distributors. They're nice, they're easy to install, and they get rid of all the big ugly boxes and ballast resistors. Sure, there are more tunable options, but based on the info you've given so far you don't have some wild engine build so more than likely a plug and play distributor will be more than up to the task.

On that note, a 600 cfm carb should be just fine for a mild 360. Even a moderately built 360 that's driven primarily on the street will do fine with a 600cfm carb. Yeah, you might lose a little HP at 6k, but again, for a street car you're not going to miss it. A 750 will work too, but I would caution against changing too many things at the same time. Figure out your timing and ignition first, then move on to the carb if you feel like you still need to. Throwing a whole crap ton of parts at the thing all at once is a great way to make a tuning nightmare for yourself.

Where is the gas tank leaking from? The sending unit gaskets and lock rings on these tanks are pretty finicky, if the last guy installed a new sending unit that may be the culprit. Also check the fuel and vent lines, fuel hose isn't what it used to be and the cheap stuff can harden and cracks in just a few years time. I would suspect all of those things before the tank itself.

For headers, I like the Doug's D453's. You can get them at AutoZone and use their 20% internet discount that they frequently run, makes them a lot more affordable. The TTI shorties don't fit any better than the Doug's, I fit a set to my car and went back to Doug's. The TTI shorties interfere in different places than the Dougs, but not really fewer places. There are advantages and disadvantages to each, some of it depends on how your car is set up. I did a write up on that install in my build thread, this should link that post My "new" '74 Duster- or why I need a project like a hole in the head. Regardless, I wouldn't waste my money on anything other than a set of Doug's D453's or the TTI long or short tubes. Other than those 3 everything else is pretty much garbage for a small block in these cars. It may just be my imagination, but it seems to me the Doug's fit the later spool mount K frame cars a little better than the TTI long tubes. That's not scientific or anything, just seems like reading threads here that the Doug's fit the 73+ cars a little better.
 
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72bluNblu said:
I think a lot of people, myself included, tend to forget that most people don't drive these cars all that much. Especially if we're about to sell them. Then the new buyer goes out and drives the car all over the place because it's new and fun, and issues that have been lurking pop up. Yes, sometimes the previous owner is a shady bastard. But sometimes they may not have known that a bunch of crap was about to go wrong because they'd had it parked for 6 months. Same stuff would have happened to them if they dragged it out and put a few hundred miles on it all at once.
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I hope you don't mind, I edited the quote to illustrate a specific point.
I agree completely with the above. I have fixed up and sold several cars over the years. Sometimes a quirk exists in a car I sell that I am not bothered by is something new to someone else and they complain. I have just gotten used to old cars sometimes being hard to start, smell of gas inside the car, the additional vibrations and wind noise, etc.
 
ledman said:
I made it back safely to Vegas with my new to me 74 duster! Now i feel like i finally belong as this is my first A body since my last one i sold back in 1989 or so.

The car did great on the trip, it was hot as heck coming across the desert and it never went over 220, usually was running 195 to 210. The car runs great and drives excellent and the manual brakes stop very well. The body is not perfect, it has rust bubbling on both quarters but not rotted thru and some previous repair work that may be bondo cracking the the rear filler panel and on the pasg. side quarter on the upper part. I feel good about my purchase as for what I have seen for sale I feel like I did ok. Thanks everyone for your help I appreciate it.
i forgot to check the K frame but the car tracks straight as an arrow at 70mph, steering is tight, The car is not what I'd call fast, but it has decent get up and go and nice smooth acceleration. It seems to idle high sometimes hen in park, not sure why yet.View attachment 1715356484 View attachment 1715356485 View attachment 1715356486 View attachment 1715356487 View attachment 1715356488 View attachment 1715356489 View attachment 1715356490 View attachment 1715356491 View attachment 1715356492 View attachment 1715356493
Click to expand...
That is one sweet street machine!:thumbsup: you did well. Your right for the money the issues it has are minimal I would say. I have a dart sport 360 and mine is rough but not rusted out. Rat Rod look kind of. So far I guess I got about 9000 grand or so and all work by me and dad. Not near as good looking as yours. So you did fantastic in my opinion. What matters it's your pride and joy now. Best of luck!:):steering:
 
Don't feel bad, just life. Realize these cars are OLD and untill every part is rebuilt, replaced, there si always something that can give trouble! There are reasons cars that have had ALL the work done on them costs more than other cars!!
Kicker is most not all, Mopar guys do not want pay. Many like me, I want a project be it running or not, because I can not justify paying for a nice "done" car anymore.
 
yup, draw up a plan, a budget, another budget and just forget about the budget and get her done

half the fun of owning these old cars is knowing exactly what scar on your knuckle came from what part you replaced yourself

if at all possible, a lot of this could be done at the same time
(remove the radiator to have more room to replace the timing chain AND gear, then slap in a new radiator)

in order to get headers in, you need to undo the motormounts, so your basically cutting all your time in half
not having a distributor in there may be helpful for the headers too, so pull that out, do the headers, and then put the new distributor on

do you trust yourself to rebuild a carb, I think I got a 750 from my bronco (don't ask) sitting in the garage, but I may need to be gone through (there is reason I took it off)
it an eddie, but I got to check the number, you want it, just pay shipping
 
72bluNblu said:
I don't think this is a "told you so" moment. Sure, some of those issues would have shown up with a thorough inspection. And any time a car has had a bunch of work done a thorough inspection is necessary because you don't know what corners "the other guy" cut. But some of the issues you bring up are probably a result of driving the car more. I think a lot of people, myself included, tend to forget that most people don't drive these cars all that much. Especially if we're about to sell them. Then the new buyer goes out and drives the car all over the place because it's new and fun, and issues that have been lurking pop up. Yes, sometimes the previous owner is a shady bastard. But sometimes they may not have known that a bunch of crap was about to go wrong because they'd had it parked for 6 months. Same stuff would have happened to them if they dragged it out and put a few hundred miles on it all at once.

Anyway, onto some of your problems. How did you figure out the car needs a timing chain? What was it doing that made you suspect that? You last said the car ran great across the desert...

As for the ignition, toss the MSD box and just buy a "plug and play" electronic distributor. There are several out there, I've run a couple of the Pertronix Flamethrower billet distributors. They're nice, they're easy to install, and they get rid of all the big ugly boxes and ballast resistors. Sure, there are more tunable options, but based on the info you've given so far you don't have some wild engine build so more than likely a plug and play distributor will be more than up to the task.

On that note, a 600 cfm carb should be just fine for a mild 360. Even a moderately built 360 that's driven primarily on the street will do fine with a 600cfm carb. Yeah, you might lose a little HP at 6k, but again, for a street car you're not going to miss it. A 750 will work too, but I would caution against changing too many things at the same time. Figure out your timing and ignition first, then move on to the carb if you feel like you still need to. Throwing a whole crap ton of parts at the thing all at once is a great way to make a tuning nightmare for yourself.

Where is the gas tank leaking from? The sending unit gaskets and lock rings on these tanks are pretty finicky, if the last guy installed a new sending unit that may be the culprit. Also check the fuel and vent lines, fuel hose isn't what it used to be and the cheap stuff can harden and cracks in just a few years time. I would suspect all of those things before the tank itself.

For headers, I like the Doug's D453's. You can get them at AutoZone and use their 20% internet discount that they frequently run, makes them a lot more affordable. The TTI shorties don't fit any better than the Doug's, I fit a set to my car and went back to Doug's. The TTI shorties interfere in different places than the Dougs, but not really fewer places. There are advantages and disadvantages to each, some of it depends on how your car is set up. I did a write up on that install in my build thread, this should link that post My "new" '74 Duster- or why I need a project like a hole in the head. Regardless, I wouldn't waste my money on anything other than a set of Doug's D453's or the TTI long or short tubes. Other than those 3 everything else is pretty much garbage for a small block in these cars. It may just be my imagination, but it seems to me the Doug's fit the later spool mount K frame cars a little better than the TTI long tubes. That's not scientific or anything, just seems like reading threads here that the Doug's fit the 73+ cars a little better.
Click to expand...

Truer words have never been spoken!
 
Its tough if you don't do some of that work yourself. I'm surprised you didn't notice the motor mounts?
 
I also think you should call the guy you bought it from and say you can show him the work order. I would ask that he give you 500.00 back to cover some of the costs
 
TF360 said:
I also think you should call the guy you bought it from and say you can show him the work order. I would ask that he give you 500.00 back to cover some of the costs
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highly unlikely he will, and im not even sure if it would be "correct" to do that
isn't there a saying about caviar?
 
Definitely correct to do that. Msd hooked up wrong? Both mounts broken. Trans bad? I hope you will call him. He knew there were issues
 
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