And the restoration begins!

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matt030305

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I will NOT be chrome plating the bezel as I wanted to try this modeling chrome spray that has been getting a lot of buzz recently: Revell Chrom spray. Stuffs not cheap but I have seen many people use it and it has an almost mirror finish to it. Will keep you guys updated

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I haven’t seen any complete threads on what it’s like to restore a rallye dash so this is my attempt on making one. First thing I did was remove the bezel from the actual metal housing. This was relatively simple as it was just a bunch of 1/4 inch bolts.

The only issue I had was getting out the trip odemeter and headlight knob. The trip Odemeter knob twisted off by rotating ccw and the headlight knob was removed by pulling out fully and pressing down the button on the bottom of the unit. After that theres a ring that you will need a special tool to remove by twisting it off.

After that I was able to remove the bezel completely. To get the lenses off, they are held in with plastic, I used an x-acto knife to remove them.

Next I removed the circuit boards and the gauges CAREFULLY (note: the gauges are held together from the circuit board with coupling bolts with a PLASTIC body. So be careful as 50 year old plastic becomes very brittle) the circuit boards are corroded to crap so will be buying new repop boards.

Gave those gauges a clean and for the price I got the dash for, they were in remarkable shape.

Hopefully by next week, the guide coat, primer and revell chrom spray will be in for me to prep the bezel. I saw a guy on Facebook restore one of these with just spray paint and it looked great. Hopefully I get the same results!

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I used Modelmaster florescent red paint FS28915 for the gauge needles. It's a perfect match.
 
those gauges look really good considering.

i did my bezel 20 some odd years ago and used a combo of krylon and revell model paint and it still looks somewhere between okay and passable. with the advances in paint tech i'm sure this will come out great!

hot glue gun will help in the reassembly on the lenses and cups
 
I wonder how the Alclad aluminum paint would work on the fiber glass rear bumper of my Demon and how much product would be needed.
 
@Oldmanmopar that looks like the glass nose I have on the Demon. Let me know how much of the Alclad you use to do the bumper. Thanks
 
@Oldmanmopar that looks like the glass nose I have on the Demon. Let me know how much of the Alclad you use to do the bumper. Thanks
I bought all the Fiber glass parts they made from Glass-tech. Nose, Hood, Rear bumper, Doors, Decklid and Dash frame. Two Guys can carry the whole crate very light weight and straight parts.

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My car came with all of the fiber glass mounted and painted by the PO. It is dog house, lift off hood, doors with fixed Lexan windows, hinged deck lid and glass rear bumper, all race weight parts. The dog house requires two bodies to take it off, it has a metal frame that slides into two Delrin bushings in the front frame horns.
 
I wonder how the Alclad aluminum paint would work on the fiber glass rear bumper of my Demon and how much product would be needed.
I think for bigger and sturdier applications, I would get it chrome plated at a spot. As Aclad and the revell chrom spray loses its finish if you rub it too hard. Just trying it out on the bezel since it won’t be exposed to harsh environments.
 
I think for bigger and sturdier applications, I would get it chrome plated at a spot. As Aclad and the revell chrom spray loses its finish if you rub it too hard. Just trying it out on the bezel since it won’t be exposed to harsh environments.
You need to put epoxy clear over it.
 
My car came with all of the fiber glass mounted and painted by the PO. It is dog house, lift off hood, doors with fixed Lexan windows, hinged deck lid and glass rear bumper, all race weight parts. The dog house requires two bodies to take it off, it has a metal frame that slides into two Delrin bushings in the front frame horns.
Mine too is a dog house style. But you can remove the center of the hood for access if needed. The hood does not come to the front like the factory style.

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On mine, the hood comes all the way to the front. With the hood scoop installed, I stick my arm in the mouth and lift it off. PM me you email address and I'll send some pictures.
 
Alright, just got in the alclad stuff. And with proper prep, psi and practice it can be better and way cheaper than chrome plating. Here are a few “test runs” I did on the bezel to see how good this stuff is.

1st photo is the alclad gloss black that was recommended to be used with the chrome

2nd and 3rd photos is the application

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