That is true hot rodding right there, nice job.
Another Mopar Off My Bucket List - Barracuda Fastback
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1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
Thanks Sireland. I appreciate all the alternative ideas you guys out there have offered to help me avoid disaster.
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1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
Tomorrow I'm heading to Seward, Nebraska to help a buddy with his '69 Coronet. While he's got it on his rotisserie we're going to try to undo some of the damage to the undercarriage. It's pretty rust-free but the frame has areas that need fixing. You can see elongated holes in the frame where someone had hooked onto the car (probably to pull it out of a ditch). The bottom of the rocker panels also show damage from jacks.
He's pretty picky about his cars and wants it to appear as new inside & out and top to bottom. It won't be an accurate restoration when he's done though. His plan is to clone this plain-Jane 318 Coronet 440 into a ram-air 440 Coronet R/T. It's not in any attempt to fool anybody. It's the way he wants the car optioned when it's done. He'll never part with it when it's finished.
He's pretty picky about his cars and wants it to appear as new inside & out and top to bottom. It won't be an accurate restoration when he's done though. His plan is to clone this plain-Jane 318 Coronet 440 into a ram-air 440 Coronet R/T. It's not in any attempt to fool anybody. It's the way he wants the car optioned when it's done. He'll never part with it when it's finished.
1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
The repair work on that '69 Coronet chassis was more than I expected. Previous owners must have bottomed the car out a heck of a lot of times. I think we pulled 20 different dents out of the frame that were at least a half inch deep. The old gal is pretty solid but I think it had a rough life. The rocker panel seams were badly mangled too. Thank goodness we had a rotisserie.
We ran a torch for almost 8 hours. Combined with a slide-hammer, pry bars, hammers and dollies it looks almost as straight now as it did when Ma Mopar sent it down the assembly line. In several places we had to weld makeshift bars onto the frame that we attached our slide hammer to.
Luckily, I picked up another buddy of mine before starting the job. We were able to switch off to keep from getting too tuckered out.
We ran a torch for almost 8 hours. Combined with a slide-hammer, pry bars, hammers and dollies it looks almost as straight now as it did when Ma Mopar sent it down the assembly line. In several places we had to weld makeshift bars onto the frame that we attached our slide hammer to.
Luckily, I picked up another buddy of mine before starting the job. We were able to switch off to keep from getting too tuckered out.
1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
With the radiator modified I turned my attention to the support wall it attaches to. In these pictures you can see several holes and indentations that had been used for various factory mounting locations. We weren't going to be using them anymore.
To give the car a clean appearance I've decided to replace the factory sheetmetal with flat 14 ga. steel. My first step was to make a few templates.
I picked up material from the local weld supply shop and will hopefully have the new pieces cut tomorrow. I'm almost out of C25 so I'll probably need to get a fresh bottle before I can get them welded in. I should continue to use tack welds for the time being until I can determine where I may need to add any new holes for the wiring and vacuum hoses to pass through. Ideally, I'll be able to borrow that rotisserie the Coronet was on when I'm ready to do the finish welds later.
To give the car a clean appearance I've decided to replace the factory sheetmetal with flat 14 ga. steel. My first step was to make a few templates.
I picked up material from the local weld supply shop and will hopefully have the new pieces cut tomorrow. I'm almost out of C25 so I'll probably need to get a fresh bottle before I can get them welded in. I should continue to use tack welds for the time being until I can determine where I may need to add any new holes for the wiring and vacuum hoses to pass through. Ideally, I'll be able to borrow that rotisserie the Coronet was on when I'm ready to do the finish welds later.
At least you are staying busy, John. The Scamp is registered, and insured. Chasing either a popped power valve, or a secondary ignition issue. Good to see you....
1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
Sounds like it's time for you to update your build thread. I assume it's running OK but lacking response when you're giving it gas?
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Yes.... on the former, still sorting out, the latter. Msd 6a, non digital box. The alternator died, replaced the batt, v.r.,& alternator. Better, still not right.. Kitting the carb, (a Quick Fuel 750 d.p.) this weekend, ordered a designed to drive plate, to install a four pin GM hei module as back up, for a possible bad MSD box.
Plugs black , but dry....the usual symptoms of bad P.V.....
1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
My experience with MSD control boxes (and what I've always heard from others) is that when they go bad you won't get any spark output. Is it possible you've got the two wires reversed that go to the distributor? They'll still function but will give an erratic signal.
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1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
I didn't get anything done on the car yesterday because I needed to focus on yard work. That's another duty I've put on my 'hate to do' list.
More Charger mayhem. With the templates I made transferred to the steel, I went ahead and cut the new replacement panels.
Then I began chopping the radiator wall. I started with a cut-off wheel to make the major cuts.
Once I had the panels loose along the sides and bottoms, I knew I had to get the spot welds holding the panels to the top loose without damaging the top. I used a flapper disc on my angle grinder to shave the top of the side panels down until they were thin enough to break the spot welds.
I still need to work on the edges to align and round off any sharp points but the fit seems pretty good.
With the sides cut off the opening is big. I will have to fit the sections of angle iron yet. My cuts were conservative so I know I'll need to do some more trimming.
I'm not sure if I'll get any more done tonight. I'm supposed to go to a buddy's place later to help him set the body on his '30 Dodge sedan chassis.
More Charger mayhem. With the templates I made transferred to the steel, I went ahead and cut the new replacement panels.
Then I began chopping the radiator wall. I started with a cut-off wheel to make the major cuts.
Once I had the panels loose along the sides and bottoms, I knew I had to get the spot welds holding the panels to the top loose without damaging the top. I used a flapper disc on my angle grinder to shave the top of the side panels down until they were thin enough to break the spot welds.
I still need to work on the edges to align and round off any sharp points but the fit seems pretty good.
With the sides cut off the opening is big. I will have to fit the sections of angle iron yet. My cuts were conservative so I know I'll need to do some more trimming.
I'm not sure if I'll get any more done tonight. I'm supposed to go to a buddy's place later to help him set the body on his '30 Dodge sedan chassis.
1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
Well, the '30 Dodge body attachment went pretty smoothly. We managed to get it on without putting any scratches in anything. The copper/brownish car in the background of the first picture is Greg's Nash sedan.
1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
I started piecing together most of the parts for the radiator wall today. The initial fit was too tight so I slivered off more material from the flat steel. Unsatisfied with how sturdy the wall felt after tacking things together I swapped out the 14 ga. steel for 12 ga.
BEFORE & AFTER
After switching to the 12 ga. steel the wall seemed to be as steady as the original (maybe even sturdier). The picture above looks very plain but keep in mind that I'll still need to fabricate a battery box which will be attached to the inside and an overflow tank that will be attached to the outside. I may have to mount the vacuum canister (for the hideaway headlights) beneath the battery too. In addition, I'll most likely have to bore some holes through the wall for wiring and vacuum lines.
The passenger side will probably get the horn mounted on the outside in order to keep the engine compartment less cluttered.
The overall appearance is OK so far but I need to make sure the grill assembly will still clear everything. I'll also need to make a few filler pieces for the sides of the frame to the bottom cross-member. I'll try to minimize the number of fastening points by bolting through the upper support and then adding a few tabs lower down.
The overflow tank from MEZIERE will necessitate a couple of stand off brackets to prevent clearance problems like we ran into with the radiator. We'll get matching caps for the two.
BEFORE & AFTER
After switching to the 12 ga. steel the wall seemed to be as steady as the original (maybe even sturdier). The picture above looks very plain but keep in mind that I'll still need to fabricate a battery box which will be attached to the inside and an overflow tank that will be attached to the outside. I may have to mount the vacuum canister (for the hideaway headlights) beneath the battery too. In addition, I'll most likely have to bore some holes through the wall for wiring and vacuum lines.
The passenger side will probably get the horn mounted on the outside in order to keep the engine compartment less cluttered.
The overall appearance is OK so far but I need to make sure the grill assembly will still clear everything. I'll also need to make a few filler pieces for the sides of the frame to the bottom cross-member. I'll try to minimize the number of fastening points by bolting through the upper support and then adding a few tabs lower down.
The overflow tank from MEZIERE will necessitate a couple of stand off brackets to prevent clearance problems like we ran into with the radiator. We'll get matching caps for the two.
Clean mockup, John....
Interesting rotisserie on that 69 Corornet, it looks like it supports the center of the car, better than most of the ones that hook to the ends. I bet that thing takes up alot of floor space.
1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
After I thought I had it all figured out I sent Spencer pictures of the progress. Over all he liked the cleanup but wanted me to modify the way the tops of the two panels were shaped. I had copied the original ones and hadn't given a thought to making any changes there.
He wanted the top edges to mimic the contour of the upper cross-member. I moaned & groaned about it for awhile but not too much. I had sort of wanted to re-do those pieces anyway. My first mock up incorporated two sections of angle iron that were vertical next to the radiator opening. I had wanted to form a lip there instead.
It was a pain in the butt but the new pieces look much better. I also decided to lop off the ends of the sub-frame and extended the new panels lower so it wouldn't be so pieced together.
BEFORE
AFTER
The biggest improvement is probably the elimination of the angle iron. Once I had finished fabbing the side pieces I turned my attention back to the bottom cross-member. I hadn't completely straightened it out before and it was only tacked to the mounting lip from the car's original cross-member.
Next I went ahead and mounted the overflow tank. I extended it away from the wall so that it would match the radiator cap location.
I think I'll gusset the extensions before I'm done.
I figured it was time to start making a battery box. It's not done yet but hopefully tomorrow.
I think Spence should be OK now with this setup now. Once he gives me the 'thumbs up' I'll do the finish welding.
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1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
It actually takes up less floor space than the other style because there's nothing extending in front of or behind the car. It's really stable. Doug used suspension mounting points when he made the brackets that attach to the hoops. Floor space isn't as much of a concern as height.
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1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
I went to a swap meet in Wahoo, Nebraska this morning. I didn't buy much. - A nice set of welding leathers for $12, a pair of Vice Grips for $1, and 12 grinding discs for $20. Somebody had a really nice set of Mickey Thompson finned aluminum valve covers for early hemi but they wanted $1000 for them. - That's too rich for my blood.
After I got home I finished welding the battery box. I still need to fabricate some form of hold down for it and work on some mounts though.
After I got home I finished welding the battery box. I still need to fabricate some form of hold down for it and work on some mounts though.
1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
A while back I wrote about my buddy's '71 GTX. He had wanted me to install a set of sub-frame connectors. He had bought a pair from Competition Engineering that were supposed to fit '68-'74 B-bodies but weren't anywhere close. He called them up to complain and was assured at first that they were correct but after insisting their tech guys research wheelbases, - they agreed that there was no way they could work on the post 1970 cars.
Rather than buy another set and risk fitment problems again we decided to modify the pair he'd received. Spencer was back from Des Moines so he gave me a hand.
The purchased ones were too long. After trying to fit them under the car we marked locations we'd have to cut to shorten them. The GTX will be a dedicated drag car so Ray wanted them welded into place. This is what the connectors looked like before modifying.
The connectors had to be shortened and the channel shaped portion was too wide for the '71 frame. Rather than start from scratch we utilized as much of the purchased pieces as possible.
Unlike the '68-'70 frame rails, the '71 on up do not protrude as low beneath the floor. One thing we did was to sliver out a point in the middle of the connectors to conform to the floor. We tried to keep the modified connectors as tight to the bottom as possible but it would have also meant they would have been very thin next to the rear frame rails or we would have had to resorted to dropping them lower and left a large gap between the connectors and the floor. To eliminate a weak point we decided to add wedge shaped sections where the thinnest portion would have been.
Ray's trailer has is open in the middle so we welded the connectors on while on the trailer.
Despite being on the trailer, head clearance was pretty limited for welding.
As nice as the weather was yesterday, today it's rainy. Ray still wants us to fab some extra strength into the front leaf spring mounts and make a gauge/switch stand inside the car. It may have to wait until things clear up. The garage is full of Charger right now.
Rather than buy another set and risk fitment problems again we decided to modify the pair he'd received. Spencer was back from Des Moines so he gave me a hand.
The purchased ones were too long. After trying to fit them under the car we marked locations we'd have to cut to shorten them. The GTX will be a dedicated drag car so Ray wanted them welded into place. This is what the connectors looked like before modifying.
The connectors had to be shortened and the channel shaped portion was too wide for the '71 frame. Rather than start from scratch we utilized as much of the purchased pieces as possible.
Unlike the '68-'70 frame rails, the '71 on up do not protrude as low beneath the floor. One thing we did was to sliver out a point in the middle of the connectors to conform to the floor. We tried to keep the modified connectors as tight to the bottom as possible but it would have also meant they would have been very thin next to the rear frame rails or we would have had to resorted to dropping them lower and left a large gap between the connectors and the floor. To eliminate a weak point we decided to add wedge shaped sections where the thinnest portion would have been.
Ray's trailer has is open in the middle so we welded the connectors on while on the trailer.
Despite being on the trailer, head clearance was pretty limited for welding.
As nice as the weather was yesterday, today it's rainy. Ray still wants us to fab some extra strength into the front leaf spring mounts and make a gauge/switch stand inside the car. It may have to wait until things clear up. The garage is full of Charger right now.
I wish I had a garage like that.
1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
I don't think I've been able to park any of the vehicles we drive inside since we moved in here. As soon as a car becomes roadworthy it moves to the back lot to make room for a new set of headaches.
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1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
I finished up the GTX today. After putting a coat of paint on those sub-frame connectors I started working on the gauge mount. I did my best to avoid screwing with the factory interior.
I made a cardboard template before cutting the aluminum panel. Two simple bends and it put his gauges and switches within easy reach.
The top of the dash has a large speaker grill that's attached by three sheetmetal screws. I was able to use two of them to attach the top of my bracket. By making some aluminum spacers I kept the bracket off of the dash pad.
I enlarged one of the existing holes on the bottom of the dash frame and installed a nutsert. A 1/4-20 stainless hex head bolts in without the need to fish a nut above.
Function took priority over looks. Even though it's a dedicated race car, it'll be running in a Stock Class and Ray didn't want anything elaborate. It'll unbolt if Ray ever decides to put the car back on the street.
I made a cardboard template before cutting the aluminum panel. Two simple bends and it put his gauges and switches within easy reach.
The top of the dash has a large speaker grill that's attached by three sheetmetal screws. I was able to use two of them to attach the top of my bracket. By making some aluminum spacers I kept the bracket off of the dash pad.
I enlarged one of the existing holes on the bottom of the dash frame and installed a nutsert. A 1/4-20 stainless hex head bolts in without the need to fish a nut above.
Function took priority over looks. Even though it's a dedicated race car, it'll be running in a Stock Class and Ray didn't want anything elaborate. It'll unbolt if Ray ever decides to put the car back on the street.
1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
This afternoon FedEx dropped off a box from JEGS. Spencer ordered a Wilwood peddle assembly for the Charger. Although we don't have all the pieces yet, I started to assemble what we have.
Their kit comes with plastic reservoirs and adapters for remote reservoirs also. Spence wanted the billet aluminum ones so he ordered them separately.
We already had a clutch cylinder that he'd bought when he decided he wanted to run a hydraulic clutch so he only ordered two additional cylinders. It didn't take long to find out we had a new problem. The aluminum reservoir will not fit on that clutch cylinder. - It's not tapped for the screw-in design. I guess he's going to order another matching cylinder for the clutch now.
Their kit comes with plastic reservoirs and adapters for remote reservoirs also. Spence wanted the billet aluminum ones so he ordered them separately.
We already had a clutch cylinder that he'd bought when he decided he wanted to run a hydraulic clutch so he only ordered two additional cylinders. It didn't take long to find out we had a new problem. The aluminum reservoir will not fit on that clutch cylinder. - It's not tapped for the screw-in design. I guess he's going to order another matching cylinder for the clutch now.
1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
Yesterday the focus returned to the radiator core support. It had only been tacked onto the car so we cut the welds and moved it to a welding table to finish welding it. Afterwards we ground the welds and sanded the assembly.
Everything looked good until we went to fit it back on the Charger. I should have attached a brace across the top because it pulled together about a half inch during the welding process. It wasn't a disaster but it meant we needed to spread the top wider with a jack to get it to fit correctly.
Once we had re-fit the core support we inspected it to see if there were any further modifications we wanted before we'll weld it back onto the car.
We still have to make provisions for the bottom radiator mounts and Spencer wants me to shave 1/8" off the top of one of the side walls. The overflow tank mounts still need to be welded too.
With the core support coming along nicely we decided to work on mounting the Wilwood pedal assembly. The spooky step was chopping the hole in the firewall. One of our main concerns was whether or not we'd clear the valve covers (that we don't have yet).
After scoping everything out we realized that that section of firewall was going to have to be heavily modified regardless of where the pedals were going to mount. For one thing, the Painless wiring harness does not use a bulkhead connector. - Secondly, the original brake master cylinder/booster holes were going to need to be filled. The left side of the firewall has all sorts of indentations in it with very little flat areas. No matter what we were going to have to create an section that was flat enough to accommodate the pedals and fill a bunch of holes.
We decided to approximate the new pedal location as best we could and then go ahead and cut our hole. If we were wrong we knew that the entire area we were cutting was going to eventually be replaced anyway.
Everything looked good until we went to fit it back on the Charger. I should have attached a brace across the top because it pulled together about a half inch during the welding process. It wasn't a disaster but it meant we needed to spread the top wider with a jack to get it to fit correctly.
Once we had re-fit the core support we inspected it to see if there were any further modifications we wanted before we'll weld it back onto the car.
We still have to make provisions for the bottom radiator mounts and Spencer wants me to shave 1/8" off the top of one of the side walls. The overflow tank mounts still need to be welded too.
With the core support coming along nicely we decided to work on mounting the Wilwood pedal assembly. The spooky step was chopping the hole in the firewall. One of our main concerns was whether or not we'd clear the valve covers (that we don't have yet).
After scoping everything out we realized that that section of firewall was going to have to be heavily modified regardless of where the pedals were going to mount. For one thing, the Painless wiring harness does not use a bulkhead connector. - Secondly, the original brake master cylinder/booster holes were going to need to be filled. The left side of the firewall has all sorts of indentations in it with very little flat areas. No matter what we were going to have to create an section that was flat enough to accommodate the pedals and fill a bunch of holes.
We decided to approximate the new pedal location as best we could and then go ahead and cut our hole. If we were wrong we knew that the entire area we were cutting was going to eventually be replaced anyway.
1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
More Charger mayhem, - more Charger headaches!
With the initial hole cut in the firewall for the Wilwood cylinders we were able to mock up the pedal assembly inside the car. It took a bit of tweaking to get everything centered where we wanted. Naturally the brake arm mounts on the right and the clutch arm on the left with the steering column running in between the two.
The problem is that that big Hemi seems to dictate location of everything. We'd probably have a lot more wiggle room if we didn't have to worry about clearing the valve covers. Spence has got Stage V heads coming and also ordered these Stage V valve covers to go with them.
The valve covers are back ordered so we won't have them here for awhile. We know they're supposed to be taller than stock Hemi covers and had to call for specs to figure out whether or not our Wilwood assembly would clear. I guess they're 5" tall at the highest point.
Nothing sounds too difficult so far and we could have mounted the pedals plenty high enough to clear them - but... that's when we noticed our next problem. The Wilwood pedals were mounted so high in the car that it would have been uncomfortable moving your feet from throttle to brake or even using the clutch. So we mounted the pedals at a height that felt best from inside the car. (and even then we decided to extend the pedals 1&1/2" further down) That left us with trying to figure out another way to clear the motor with the master cylinders.
Without having the valve covers here we could only make estimations from measurements off of our plastic mock up motor. We think we'll be OK if we recess the master cylinder mounts into the firewall an additional inch. Our plan is to have a spacer ring machined that's an inch thick. It will create additional headaches because the reservoirs will need to have their screw-in attachment locations relocated outward to clear that recess.
We'll work on the spacing more tomorrow and see if we can use some brass fittings to offset those reservoirs. For now we went ahead and cut the firewall out further and fabricated a filler plate.
With the initial hole cut in the firewall for the Wilwood cylinders we were able to mock up the pedal assembly inside the car. It took a bit of tweaking to get everything centered where we wanted. Naturally the brake arm mounts on the right and the clutch arm on the left with the steering column running in between the two.
The problem is that that big Hemi seems to dictate location of everything. We'd probably have a lot more wiggle room if we didn't have to worry about clearing the valve covers. Spence has got Stage V heads coming and also ordered these Stage V valve covers to go with them.
The valve covers are back ordered so we won't have them here for awhile. We know they're supposed to be taller than stock Hemi covers and had to call for specs to figure out whether or not our Wilwood assembly would clear. I guess they're 5" tall at the highest point.
Nothing sounds too difficult so far and we could have mounted the pedals plenty high enough to clear them - but... that's when we noticed our next problem. The Wilwood pedals were mounted so high in the car that it would have been uncomfortable moving your feet from throttle to brake or even using the clutch. So we mounted the pedals at a height that felt best from inside the car. (and even then we decided to extend the pedals 1&1/2" further down) That left us with trying to figure out another way to clear the motor with the master cylinders.
Without having the valve covers here we could only make estimations from measurements off of our plastic mock up motor. We think we'll be OK if we recess the master cylinder mounts into the firewall an additional inch. Our plan is to have a spacer ring machined that's an inch thick. It will create additional headaches because the reservoirs will need to have their screw-in attachment locations relocated outward to clear that recess.
We'll work on the spacing more tomorrow and see if we can use some brass fittings to offset those reservoirs. For now we went ahead and cut the firewall out further and fabricated a filler plate.
1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
Wilwood uses an11/16"X20 thread size to screw the reservoirs into their master cylinders and a 9/16"X18 thread size in the bottoms of their reservoirs. Finding fittings that will allow us to extend the tanks beyond our planned recess is almost impossible without running flexible AN lines between the two. It looks like we'll have to mount the reservoirs on brackets to make things work.
I'd brought the driver's seat up from the basement and installed it in order to help figure out pedal placement. Hopefully the plastic will keep it from getting too dirty.
After further measuring of the firewall we've decided that we will have to replace the aluminum plates provided by Wilwood with new ones we'll have machined. We'll need the new pieces made an inch taller and increase the recess by making the inner plate an inch thicker. I believe we'll be making our own pedal arms down the road to get the fit that we want but we won't tackle that until we've got the full brake system installed and can test for proper throw distance.
Meanwhile we went ahead and gusseted the mounts for the overflow tank.
The formed angle next to the radiator opening was notched for brackets we're installing on the radiator. We also added gussets to that notched section.
Next I drilled holes in the upper sections of the new radiator wall for plug welds and also added a large 1&1/2" hole where future wiring will be run through
Spence and I spent a bit more time practicing tig welding before attaching tabs on the radiator made from 2" aluminum channel. It may not be a work of art but the welds look less like bird poop than my previous attempts.
Over all things are still shaping up.
I even spent a little time knocking off some of the surface rust that had formed on the left inner fender when the car sat outside last year.
I'd brought the driver's seat up from the basement and installed it in order to help figure out pedal placement. Hopefully the plastic will keep it from getting too dirty.
After further measuring of the firewall we've decided that we will have to replace the aluminum plates provided by Wilwood with new ones we'll have machined. We'll need the new pieces made an inch taller and increase the recess by making the inner plate an inch thicker. I believe we'll be making our own pedal arms down the road to get the fit that we want but we won't tackle that until we've got the full brake system installed and can test for proper throw distance.
Meanwhile we went ahead and gusseted the mounts for the overflow tank.
The formed angle next to the radiator opening was notched for brackets we're installing on the radiator. We also added gussets to that notched section.
Next I drilled holes in the upper sections of the new radiator wall for plug welds and also added a large 1&1/2" hole where future wiring will be run through
Spence and I spent a bit more time practicing tig welding before attaching tabs on the radiator made from 2" aluminum channel. It may not be a work of art but the welds look less like bird poop than my previous attempts.
Over all things are still shaping up.
I even spent a little time knocking off some of the surface rust that had formed on the left inner fender when the car sat outside last year.
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