At track. 1/8 mile Any ET guesses?

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j par said:
What size street tires do you have? I do like the idea of getting some used rims and maybe even some used slicks. Possibly a little smaller diameter than your street tires to add to your gearing.
I suggest this because it's what I did at the beginning and it dropped my quarter mile time by 1/2 second the first time I used some used slicks and some cheap steel rims I got from the scrap yard.
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I agree with that I actually thought about doing this. I have an extra set of steel wheels I just dont know how affordable 14 inch drag tires would be. If they are available at all?
 
stroked340 said:
Says the guy with the "junkyard" jalopy..
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The man that introduced me to drag racing 20 years ago was a literal "junkyard" man he live in and ran a junkyard he had junkyard full of abodys and he raced abodys. He had a 75 dart hand 10 gear jammer that he build out of junkyard parts. Nothing wrong with that not everyone has 20 grand to drop on a racecar. I'm willing to bet that junkyard dart was faster than most prestine 20k bought cars!
 
dartfreak75 said:
The man that introduced me to drag racing 20 years ago was a literal "junkyard" man he live in and ran a junkyard he had junkyard full of abodys and he raced abodys. He had a 75 dart hand 10 gear jammer that he build out of junkyard parts. Nothing wrong with that not everyone has 20 grand to drop on a racecar. I'm willing to bet that junkyard dart was faster than most prestine 20k bought cars!
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And quicker then some of the others commenting here too..
 
stroked340 said:
Because the guy that stated it has a (friends dart) with a "smog 318" stock 360 heads small cam and 3.91's running 13.70's but then I know how to tune...
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Tune first then gears (if the lowest et possible is the goal) from the looks of his car it's a street car car. 3.91 is not a good gear with a 904 in a street car
 
dartfreak75 said:
Tune first then gears (if the lowest et possible is the goal) from the looks of his car it's a street car car. 3.91 is not a good gear with a 904 in a street car
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Friends dart is a "street car" drives it on the street/highway all the time..
 
I personally dont like the idea of turning 3600 rpm constantly on the interstate but that's just me. Each to their own everyone uses their cars differently.
 
dartfreak75 said:
I agree with that I actually thought about doing this. I have an extra set of steel wheels I just dont know how affordable 14 inch drag tires would be. If they are available at all?
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I just watched Craigslist till some something popped up. I just sold my drag slicks and skinnies at the swap meet for half of what I paid for them, but I haven't used them in 2 years and didn't plan on Switching tires back and forth again. I didn't mind when I first started though and when I was drag racing more seriously...
 
stroked340 said:
Says the guy with the "junkyard" jalopy..
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I agreed with the junkyard jalopy when you're talking about my car. I built it myself. Rebuild everything I can myself suspension transmission and anything I can do. And I certainly know how to put on two bolts on a thermostat housing the first time..
I know you had a new transmission guy put in all those good parts and have them put them in there like you said before. You like having other people do all your work for you because your time is too valuable I'm pretty sure or either that or you can't..
Credit card racer yeah just put new gears in it like proof that can happen with no money..
 
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Guys, it's really 2 parts. MPH and ET.

Bad traction or a bad 60 ft will effect the ET, but not a hole lot on the mph. 3.23's with traction is plenty of gearing for a mild 360 with headers to get maybe 78-80 mph in the 1/8. In fact, without headers and 2.45's I got 78 mph in the 1/8. The real story is the OP got 68 mph, with 3.23's and headers, two things I didn't have. That is why I say the car should run at least 80 mph in the 1/8, which with tractions would equal at least mid 8's in the 1/8.

It's that simple.
 
stroked340 said:
That's a 16.23 1/4 mile..get your self some drag radials and a set of 3.91's and you'll go a lot quicker..
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...and don't forget the hardened intermediate shaft! oh that's right! You did forget it!
 
318willrun said:
Guys, it's really 2 parts. MPH and ET.

Bad traction or a bad 60 ft will effect the ET, but not a hole lot on the mph. 3.23's with traction is plenty of gearing for a mild 360 with headers to get maybe 78-80 mph in the 1/8. In fact, without headers and 2.45's I got 78 mph in the 1/8. The real story is the OP got 68 mph, with 3.23's and headers, two things I didn't have. That is why I say the car should run at least 80 mph in the 1/8, which with tractions would equal at least mid 8's in the 1/8.

It's that simple.
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Where would you start? Timing and jetting?
Jetting is something I know nothing about and really want to learn more. Similar to the OP I have a 600 cfm but it's a Holley not a eddy! Where do you start when it comes to carbs? How do you diagnose carb tuning or poor jetting?
 
dartfreak75 said:
Poo! That sucks. I hate finding out the hard way! Lol are original ones hardened? I have 3 factory ones 2 from 318s and one from a 360!
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No. The hardened shafts are for use with HV oil pumps.
 
dartfreak75 said:
Where would you start? Timing and jetting?
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Honestly, if the car was at my house, this is the order I'd start. And go as far as needed to get the ship corrected..... lol
  1. Check that the throttle is truly going wide open. Sometimes a simple throttle cable adjustment (or kickdown linkage binding) can add a whopping 70 hp... LOL.
  2. check that the 4bbls are coming open when the throttle is wide open. Both #1 &#2 checks would be done with engine off and in 2 minutes under the hood. That's why that would be the first two things on my list.
  3. Initial timing. A good guessing game would be 15* idle and 35* total. I'd go from there according to what the car liked.
  4. I would suspect by now the car would be doing good things, but if not, I might do a compression test. Make sure something stupid isn't going on with valves sealing, etc.
  5. It's an eddy, spring kit and metering rods are cheap. Richen it up and see how it responds.
Remember, were not looking for 1 mph and .3 tenths. Were looking for 12 mph and 1.5 seconds.
 
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So carb adjustments are just kind of make an adjustment and test it out? Other than plugs are there any tell tell signs of lean or rich?
 
dartfreak75 said:
So carb adjustments are just kind of make an adjustment and test it out? Other than plugs are there any tell tell signs of lean or rich?
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A/F ratio gage if your looking for a reading. Reading plugs is more difficult with todays gas, but can still be looked at. I pay attention to exhaust, smell, hearing, clean idle, full pull at WOT, be sensitive to flat spots in the "slow progression of the acceleration".
 
What is the optimal a/f ratio or does it depend?
Do you run a gauge?
 
dartfreak75 said:
What is the optimal a/f ratio or does it depend?
Do you run a gauge?
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I do not run a gauge. 12-14 ratio. Again, the car will let you know what it needs or wants. Some get caught up in the "perfect reading" on their A/F gauge, and suffer.
 
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