FrozenCaveman
Well-Known Member
Hi everyone,
I just became the proud new owner of my mom's 1971 Plymouth Scamp. She bought the car new originally in the SF Bay Area and it's been running around Marin for the last 37 years! I still remember getting picked up from school in that thing. So on Sunday, when I picked it up, I felt a little bad driving it up to Sacramento - it's finally got a new home. But it drove great, was cruising 65-70+ the whole way on that slant-6 in 100 degree heat by the time I hit Fairfield.
Anyway, the problem I'm about to deal with is this - the fuel gauge doesn't work at all and the temp gauge just barely gets to the bottom end of the normal range when it should be fully warmed up. From what I've read, the voltage limiter is typically the culprit when both of these gauges aren't working, or it can be a bad ground. I'm hoping it's not the sending unit, but what I'm wondering is this: if the temp gauge still moves a little bit, does that rule out the voltage limiter as the problem?
My 80-year old mom was pretty good about getting the car serviced, but the mechanic last told her that the sending unit is bad and it would cost $1000 to repair. That's mostly the reason that I got the car. Thankfully she thought of me instead of just letting the mechanic have it. After reading other posts, I'm hoping it's something a little more accessible than the sending unit. And given the temp gauge isn't working too well, I'm really hoping it's as simple as a new voltage limiter or maybe tightening the connections in the dash.
The car's paint is still the original metallic brown (not sure what the paint code is yet), with the tan (almost gold?) interior. No vinyl top. 211k on the speedo after one engine and tranny rebuild about 20k miles and 5 years ago. Unfortunately, it's got some significant rust at the corners of the rear window, which caused the trunk and rear quarters to rust out in front the rear wheels. And the heater core has been disconnected, so I assume it was starting to leak. Other than that, though, the car is in good shape and drives like a champ. I'll probably drive it to work now and again as the weather cools. And I'll definitely keep it under cover once it starts raining.
Anyway, thanks for any input you have. This is my first post on my first day.
-John
I just became the proud new owner of my mom's 1971 Plymouth Scamp. She bought the car new originally in the SF Bay Area and it's been running around Marin for the last 37 years! I still remember getting picked up from school in that thing. So on Sunday, when I picked it up, I felt a little bad driving it up to Sacramento - it's finally got a new home. But it drove great, was cruising 65-70+ the whole way on that slant-6 in 100 degree heat by the time I hit Fairfield.
Anyway, the problem I'm about to deal with is this - the fuel gauge doesn't work at all and the temp gauge just barely gets to the bottom end of the normal range when it should be fully warmed up. From what I've read, the voltage limiter is typically the culprit when both of these gauges aren't working, or it can be a bad ground. I'm hoping it's not the sending unit, but what I'm wondering is this: if the temp gauge still moves a little bit, does that rule out the voltage limiter as the problem?
My 80-year old mom was pretty good about getting the car serviced, but the mechanic last told her that the sending unit is bad and it would cost $1000 to repair. That's mostly the reason that I got the car. Thankfully she thought of me instead of just letting the mechanic have it. After reading other posts, I'm hoping it's something a little more accessible than the sending unit. And given the temp gauge isn't working too well, I'm really hoping it's as simple as a new voltage limiter or maybe tightening the connections in the dash.
The car's paint is still the original metallic brown (not sure what the paint code is yet), with the tan (almost gold?) interior. No vinyl top. 211k on the speedo after one engine and tranny rebuild about 20k miles and 5 years ago. Unfortunately, it's got some significant rust at the corners of the rear window, which caused the trunk and rear quarters to rust out in front the rear wheels. And the heater core has been disconnected, so I assume it was starting to leak. Other than that, though, the car is in good shape and drives like a champ. I'll probably drive it to work now and again as the weather cools. And I'll definitely keep it under cover once it starts raining.
Anyway, thanks for any input you have. This is my first post on my first day.
-John
She sent me on my way with the wrong gas cap key. Heh.
