Bending a rodney

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superchargeddrt said:
By the way Mike,
I'm real close to taking my Dart for its first test drive (boy am I nervous and excited at the same time). Just have to connect the exhaust and a little under hood wiring.
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I was nervous the first time I took my Dart out of state, until I told myself "whatever, I can fix anything it can do".
After that it was nothing but fun.
 
superchargeddrt said:
I like the way you think.
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Survival instinct. (the Wife's sanity survival)
At first I wouldn't have a conversation or anything that took my attention away from the car.
It sure was a weight off after I said oh screw it.
 
Unless you had a blown head gasket and a cylinder full of coolant, I doubt very much you have a bent rod. .........Speaking of rods, I got the pushrods today. Thanks Mike !
 
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LOL My wife hates the fact that I live cars. Work on em, go to cruises, watch car shows on TV (and hopefully track time this year). She's always saying CARS CARS CARS, that's all you think about.
 
superchargeddrt said:
LOL My wife hates the fact that I live cars. Work on em, go to cruises, watch car shows on TV (and hopefully track time this year). She's always saying CARS CARS CARS, that's all you think about.
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Well Glenn, if you want to stop her thinking that way, start talking about redheads! Seemed to work for me:thumbsup:
 
604B1duster said:
Unless you had a blown head gasket and a cylinder full of coolant, I doubt very much you have a bent rod. .........Speaking of rods, I got the pushrods today. Thanks Mike !
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Glad they got there Dan. My little hooterville P.O. can be slow sometimes. Hope they work out!
 
Ok .25 oz turns into 3 lbs. at 3000 rpm. Just saying......
 
Lol, great entertainment so far!

Vibration sucks... and so does bolting a flywheel on ootb... never assume the rest of the driveline isn't skewed. You rebuilt the 4 spd and added a flywheel....you have multiple problems for the issues you state.
 
I have worked on and seen a bent rod on a magnum 5.2 that ran fine with no vibration. Long story short fuel injector stuck open caused a hydro lock. Repaired injector. Removed plug to clear cylinder and reinstalled. Vehicle ran good but had a tapping noise when cold. Eventually tore it down and found connecting rod s shaped and tapping noise was counter weight kissing the bottom of piston on down stroke. After warmed up enough clearance through expansion that they no longer touched.
 
as far as the epoxied tubes on the intake ports, back when I was machinist 30 yrs ago, I would set the heads up in a milling machine. Then I'd put a piece of a drill rod in the intake pushrod hole for each port, I'd edge find that near edge of the drill rod, then I'd step the cutter over so I'd leave 0.100" or 0.125" wall and mill that interior wall of the port. Then you can continue hand porting the intake but just feathering it into the milled area. I think it works slick.
 
Ironmike said:
I think it has to twist to bend.
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I've got a Vega rod that is bent 40-50 degrees with no twist. Dropped a valve, valve head jammed between piston and head, cracked head, water rushed in, instant hydrolock.
I have to wonder if your motor detonated when you 'cleared it out' with all that oil in there (a good source of detonation) and cracked a ring or ring land. Did anything look odd on any cylinder wall?

I tend to agree with your opinion on the oil; it will kill a cylinder from firing long before you get enough in there to hydrolock.

Could be something as easy as you broke one of the internal supports in the clutch pack; that will shake pretty good. I've done that by revving and dumping the clutch on pavement.
 
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Well j par got me thinking about the clutch. In my original post I did mention that I was trying to "clear it up" ......stomped it and smacked 2nd.....that's when it started.

After a rough day fighting the 99 scattersheild bolts, the headers and other stuff , I found a damaged pressure plate. As you can see below, one of the struts took a major hit and bent badly.

After doing some measuring with calipers, it looks like although the p plate shell was still bolted on center, the heavy friction disc was pulled about 284 thou off center . Over a quarter inch off balance.

I'm not 100 percent certain but pretty sure I solved it.

McLeod SUPPOSEDLY put this set up together for my combo. Less than 20 miles on it.
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So thanks to all who helped out and kudos to ole j par for getting my brain in the right direction!
 
Ironmike said:
Well j par got me thinking about the clutch. In my original post I did mention that I was trying to "clear it up" ......stomped it and smacked 2nd.....that's when it started.

After a rough day fighting the 99 scattersheild bolts, the headers and other stuff , I found a damaged pressure plate. As you can see below, one of the struts took a major hit and bent badly.

After doing some measuring with calipers, it looks like although the p plate shell was still bolted on center, the heavy friction disc was pulled about 284 thou off center . Over a quarter inch off balance.

I'm not 100 percent certain but pretty sure I solved it.

McLeod SUPPOSEDLY put this set up together for my combo. Less than 20 miles on it.
View attachment 1715169984 View attachment 1715169985 View attachment 1715169986

So thanks to all who helped out and kudos to ole j par for getting my brain in the right direction!
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good job on the diagnosis, good job on the motor package. I've never seen that before. That motor is producing some power!
The pictures beg the question: Is that a function of poor spring material for the strut? Or is that an example of the harshness of engagement of a diaphragm pressure plate? Or a little of both?
 
I have no friggin idea. Never saw it either. I think it's like you said. A combination of both.

Although I have heard some bad stuff about McLeod lately. I plan to call them Monday, but I'm now once again looking for a clutch and P plate. I'm not running their stuff anymore.
 
if that strut material was tempered correctly, I don't think it would have folded up like that. I would think it would have broken.
 
Ironmike said:
Well j par got me thinking about the clutch. In my original post I did mention that I was trying to "clear it up" ......stomped it and smacked 2nd.....that's when it started.

After a rough day fighting the 99 scattersheild bolts, the headers and other stuff , I found a damaged pressure plate. As you can see below, one of the struts took a major hit and bent badly.

After doing some measuring with calipers, it looks like although the p plate shell was still bolted on center, the heavy friction disc was pulled about 284 thou off center . Over a quarter inch off balance.

I'm not 100 percent certain but pretty sure I solved it.

McLeod SUPPOSEDLY put this set up together for my combo. Less than 20 miles on it.
View attachment 1715169984 View attachment 1715169985 View attachment 1715169986

So thanks to all who helped out and kudos to ole j par for getting my brain in the right direction!
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It was when you said something about grabbing 2nd gear and that happening it seemed to me that when that clutch got grabbed something wasn't happy? And also the way you said it made the vibration when you pushed in the clutch also. Again I'll go back to what I said I'm glad it's this and not a bent rod.
 
rustycowll69 said:
if that strut material was tempered correctly, I don't think it would have folded up like that. I would think it would have broken.
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Yeah I know. You know I'm no engineer but it seems odd that the struts attachment is "against the grain".
Why have the rotational forces pushing on it. Seems like it would be stronger against a pulling type force.
 
j par said:
It was when you said something about grabbing 2nd gear and that happening it seemed to me that when that clutch got grabbed something wasn't happy? And also the way you said it made the vibration when you pushed in the clutch also. Again I'll go back to what I said I'm glad it's this and not a bent rod.
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If I remember right, you were in the 10's awhile back. What clutch set up were you running?
 
Ironmike said:
If I remember right, you were in the 10's awhile back. What clutch set up were you running?
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The best I've ever done was about an 11-4.
The first started out with a heavy duty AutoZone diaphragm clutch that lasted through my 318 and into my Stroker motor before it started slipping in 4th Gear at the top of the track. Then I figured I'd solve that slipping problem once and for all with a act technology six puck clutch. That quickly took care of the eight and three-quarter that I built. I built a Dana 60 and now I slip a Hays clutch disc in that act technology throw out plate. All a terrible setup nothing to definitely recommend. Of course people talk more about the bog Warner clutch and being able to set up a certain amount of pressure and all that. This year I plan to leave the Slicks off the car and let the tires slip a little and try and be consistent and not break stuff. Honestly every time I look at your thread and see all the stuff you did to your motor it boggles my mind. If I had any advice it would be keep it simple. Any specific ideas on clutching from me would only be on what not to do.
 
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