Bending a rodney

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Ironmike said:
After doing some measuring with calipers, it looks like although the p plate shell was still bolted on center, the heavy friction disc was pulled about 284 thou off center . Over a quarter inch off balance.

I'm not 100 percent certain but pretty sure I solved it.

McLeod SUPPOSEDLY put this set up together for my combo. Less than 20 miles on it.
View attachment 1715169984 View attachment 1715169985 View attachment 1715169986

So thanks to all who helped out and kudos to ole j par for getting my brain in the right direction!
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So the friction disc was pulled clear off the input shaft? Or the friction disc was wrecked? If it was in tact and still on the input shaft then your gearbox is fucked! There is no way a clutch disc to be "off" .284" and still be on the input shaft unless its guts are shredded. BTW pics are always helpful and you NEVER seem to post any. McLeod is an excellent company with excellent products. J.Rob
 
When I said "heavy friction disc" , I meant the friction surface of the pressure plate. That's what is off center. There are several good pictures of this in my first post made today. Post number 41. The clutchplate itself is fine and appears to be in good condition.

It's pretty simple to see if your cognitive functions are all intact.
 
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yellow rose said:
Just another reason why I don't use birth control pressure plates.
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I agree with ya on that, YR. But I'm stuck running I diaphragm due to the hydraulic TO bearing I run. I questioned American Powertrain about it and they just said can't run B&B. Thought about trying it, though. I think it's a diameter thing.

Maybe this would not have happened if I had a Clutch Tamer.:D
 
Ironmike said:
When I said "heavy friction disc" , I meant the friction surface of the pressure plate. That's what is off center. There are several good pictures of this in my first post made today. The clutchplate itself is fine and appears to be in good condition.

It's pretty simple to see if your cognitive functions are all intact.
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Its called a pressure plate, not a heavy friction disc. Anyways pictures help but then again.....agendas. J.Rob
 
Ironmike said:
I agree with ya on that, YR. But I'm stuck running I diaphragm due to the hydraulic TO bearing I run. I questioned American Powertrain about it and they just said can't run B&B. Thought about trying it, though. I think it's a diameter thing.

Maybe this would not have happened if I had a Clutch Tamer.:D
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I know it's not my money but I'd call Rob Youngblood or Cale Aaronson and see what they can do for you. You need a Long style pressure plate. I have been using a B&B/Long for years. When it's used up I'm switching to a Long PP.

BTW, Cale may still have some stuff to make you an adjustable B&B/Long cover. blackmagicclutches.com
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
My c.f. works great. Lol
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Hey don't laugh. I have a dual friction set up in my shed that I ran for 4 summers, back in the 500 HP range.

It worked pretty damn good for me. I have half a mind to put it back in. Looks damn near new.
 
thin
RAMM said:
Its called a pressure plate, not a heavy friction disc. Anyways pictures help but then again.....agendas. J.Rob
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My apologies, My computer did not load any pics for over an hour--guess its brain dead like me. That bent strut is def the problem. J.Rob
 
RAMM said:
thin


My apologies, My computer did not load any pics for over an hour--guess its brain dead like me. That bent strut is def the problem. J.Rob
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Well you know one day when you're an internet expert like myself! You'll be able to call this stuff on the first shot like me!
 
yellow rose said:
I know it's not my money but I'd call Rob Youngblood or Cale Aaronson and see what they can do for you. You need a Long style pressure plate. I have been using a B&B/Long for years. When it's used up I'm switching to a Long PP.

BTW, Cale may still have some stuff to make you an adjustable B&B/Long cover. blackmagicclutches.com
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Got it. Will do. I just need something that can handle the power and last a little while.
 
Ironmike said:
Got it. Will do. I just need something that can handle the power and last a little while.
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I still have that six puck disc!? It will handle all the power you want to throw at it! LOL
I'll probably save it in case I want to start road racing. Haven't pulled this booger out in a couple of years...
IMG_20180428_215727.jpg
 
rustycowll69 said:
The pictures beg the question: Is that a function of poor spring material for the strut? Or is that an example of the harshness of engagement of a diaphragm pressure plate? Or a little of both?
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Harshness of engagement..... That is the support strap I referred to and which I broke on a PP once upon a time. Revved high and dumped hard on pavement. Instant vibration. Never did that again and never bent/broke any of those straps again.

Each such strap has a limit; I broke that one with just a modified 130 HP Opel 1.9L Engine. If you rev and dump on pavement, then the springs in the disc get 100% compressed and the remaining shock goes elsewhere; something like this will happen sooner or later.

Glad it was that easy IM.
 
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That's great news Mike,
Even though it is still costing you money it could have been WAY worse. I think the first cruise is about a month away and at least you have a shot at making it. My car STILL isnt started, it's all of the "little things" that are chewing up GOBBS of time. We are down to just a few annoying items. The shifter cable in way close to the headers as is the starter solenoid wire that comes out of the starter. I wrapped the header with insulation for the starter and I put Velcro attached insulating wrap around the shifter cable. Not sure how it's gonna work out. We were in the garage until 3;30 this morning and my *** is dragging. Hope that you're able to resolve your issues soon. Looks like another week for me as I'm heading to Texas for work on Monday.
 
nm9stheham said:
Harshness of engagement..... That is the support strap I referred to and which I broke on a PP once upon a time. Revved high and dumped hard on pavement. Instant vibration. Never did that again and never bent/broke any of those straps again.

Each such strap has a limit; I broke that one with just a modified 130 HP Opel 1.9L Engine. If you rev and dump on pavement, then the springs in the disc get 100% compressed and the remaining shock goes elsewhere; something like this will happen sooner or later.

Glad it was that easy IM.
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It actually happened at the 1-2 shift. Nothing fancy, just the typical 6400 powershift. Done it a thousand times with other set ups, I just think the disc was too aggressive. It's a Mcleod, bronze button on both sides.

I don't even like the way my aluminum flywheel looks now after less than 20 miles....
 
Ironmike said:
It actually happened at the 1-2 shift. Nothing fancy, just the typical 6400 powershift. Done it a thousand times with other set ups, I just think the disc was too aggressive. It's a Mcleod, bronze button on both sides.

I don't even like the way my aluminum flywheel looks now after less than 20 miles....
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That's because that disc isn't designed to slip.
 
What's funny is the dude at McLeod told me that the bronze/bronze would act a lot like the old rag discs used to....
And I believed him.

I originally wanted to just put a sintered iron disc in there, but could not find one that was a sprung hub type. Not sure how an unsprung hub would act on the street.

I just can't imagine any application that would require zero slippage. None.

I've done so much reading on this and that.......really have a good grasp on a lot of things but my clutch knowledge is piss poor. I'm going to work on that. Seems like too many choices these days. Now if you end up with some decent power, your choice is critical.
It seems.....:realcrazy:
 
Ask wheel burner about his screen door parts LOL and this will go sideways real fast!
 
Actually the weed burner deal isn't as bad as not having anything. Iron Mike would be better off using a weed burner if he has to use that particular clutch package. At least it won't kill the birth control pressure plate.

I know from experience if you slip a disc like that it will ball up and put you in the suck.

If I was going the weed burner route I'd go back to a rag disc or use a sintered iron disc. If you use the SI disc you have to drop plate load...it's a vicious circle.
 
Ironmike said:
What's funny is the dude at McLeod told me that the bronze/bronze would act a lot like the old rag discs used to....
And I believed him.

I originally wanted to just put a sintered iron disc in there, but could not find one that was a sprung hub type. Not sure how an unsprung hub would act on the street.

I just can't imagine any application that would require zero slippage. None.

I've done so much reading on this and that.......really have a good grasp on a lot of things but my clutch knowledge is piss poor. I'm going to work on that. Seems like too many choices these days. Now if you end up with some decent power, your choice is critical.
It seems.....:realcrazy:
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I run a sintered iron unsprung hub on the street. My wife can drive it. She hasn't driven the car with the new engine but she will. I'm not a fan of sprung hubs and discs with marcel springs in them.
 
yellow rose said:
Actually the weed burner deal isn't as bad as not having anything. Iron Mike would be better off using a weed burner if he has to use that particular clutch package. At least it won't kill the birth control pressure plate.

I know from experience if you slip a disc like that it will ball up and put you in the suck.

If I was going the weed burner route I'd go back to a rag disc or use a sintered iron disc. If you use the SI disc you have to drop plate load...it's a vicious circle.
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DUDE! "WHEEL"! You have to get weed off your brain "LITERALLY"!!!
 
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