Big block kickdown substitute.

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dkbug

dkbug

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Anyone ever heard of retrofitting a kickdown setup off of a new car onto an older big block setup? I just find it hard to believe that people want $225-$300 for an incomplete set of linkages.

Once upon a time I read somewhere that someone modified one to work off a 360/727.

Thanks, DK
 
The problem with modding parts from something else is that they hardly ever work correctly due to different angles and movement. (lever lengths and travel)
It can be done if one knows what they are doing, but it would be WAY easier and function better if you can get the cable type from Lokar or someone.
If you do end up with Lokar stuff lube the cables before you install them, as for some stupid reason they don't do it when they build them and a lot of people had binding issues upon installation that were cured by lubing the dry cables.
 
I always keep the kickdowns when I part soemthing out. But - it usually involves some trial and error, and you ned to be able to cut and weld to make what you have work.
 
Well I have the ability to cut and weld. And I am an engineering student so I am sure I can get the angles and everything correct to be able to move a lever at the tranny from the carb. Really I would just need dimensions and lengths of the stock rods.

DK
 
i had a 1965 300 L, 413, 727. and i did not like the shift pattern. it would shift shift at low throttle, and long shift at high throttle. so i lengthened the bell crank link at the fire wall, that is on the rod from the carb. this slowed push rod to the trans. this got the trany to hang in gear at low throttle, and short shift at high opening. this worked for street driving. cause with that big engine i didnt need lots of power at high RPM, for street driving.
 
no that was a long time ago. car is long gone. ill try to say it better. the bellcrank has apart that points straight up that the rod from the carb goes through the top hole. trace the plate and make it 2-3 inches long. and put a hole just like the one on the stock plate. split the width of the new plate from the bottom so it can piggy back on the stock one and stop short of the hole so the new hole will be about 1 1/2- 2 " away from the stock hole. making the lever longer. then piggy back it on edge of the stock plate facing the fire wall. and weld it on. but make the weld heavy enough to hold but light enough you could take it off easy. when you are done it will look like the factory made it with two holes about 1 1/2- 2 " apart. this way you can go back the factory hole, with out having to totally take it apart. but you haven't butchered the bell crank. this way you dont ruin a good bell crank. if we have to i could draw a sketch and mail it to you.
 
Better off to get the Lokar kit and be done with it, unless there is just a bunch of time to kill and it gives something to do.
 
TrailBeast said:
Better off to get the Lokar kit and be done with it, unless there is just a bunch of time to kill and it gives something to do.
Click to expand...

Exactly! Get a Lokar or similar cable setup. Clean, simple, easy to adjust.
Far superior to the Rube Goldberg, push-me-pull-you linkage junk. :)
 
my o my bug iam in wichita ks. if i was not so busy i could come down and help you. i just made sketch. by hand. it should be good enough to use. but its not god enough to print.
 
My solution is a manual valve body in my cars. I hate when transmissions shift themselves.
 
See I would like to experiment with a manual valve body. But I am not entirely sure how alot of that stuff works. I am on my way to installing a b&m shifter. Forphorty, it would be super cool if you would take a quick video of how your shifter is setup so I can see what a manual valve body is like.

DKBUG
 
dkbug said:
See I would like to experiment with a manual valve body. But I am not entirely sure how alot of that stuff works. I am on my way to installing a b&m shifter. Forphorty, it would be super cool if you would take a quick video of how your shifter is setup so I can see what a manual valve body is like.

DKBUG
Click to expand...

A manual valvebody makes the trans stay or be in any gear at any rpm range.
For example, if the shifter is in the 3rd position at a stop, then the trans is in third.
If you drop down to second at 100 mph, it will drop down to second at 100mph.
It is in whatever gear is selected at any speed or rpm's.
 
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