big block swap stick or faq?

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connerray

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Is there a big block swap guide or sticky any were? I can't find one on BBD.com
The only place iv really found with helpful info is on Schumacher s web site (other than the header tech on BBD
I know I need the swap mounts, radiator, oil pan, headers, what els is involved?
I see a bunch of member builds that are swaps but there so lengthy and filled with people bull s'ing back and forth and discussing off topic stuff.
Thanks.
I'm not sure if I'm going with a BB or RB. What ever the best deal on craigslist come Friday. Right now its looking like a 440 and trany at $325 or a 400 in a Rv and the whole rv is 700 obo
 
Well, a low deck motor fits a bit better. Will be tight in regards to radiator/water pump area, many folks use electric fans...many folks throw a hissy fit over folks using electric fans.You should consider heavier torsion bars....and obviously disc brakes if you don't already have them. Often times folks do have troubles with oil pans hitting the steering linkage. Header choice is somewhat limited...at least as far as good fitting ones go...Some folks will tell you that in the world of today's big inch small blocks not much sense in going with a big block....But of course if you are talking aftermarket block and a big stroke crank (600+") that sort of is untrue. So what exactly are you wanting to know?
 
I'm mainly looking for a pictorial guide of start to finish on the swap.
More in depth header fitment on power steering a's
Schumacher has info on the oil pan part
And any more snags along the way
Its going in a 70 duster, a little to far gone (IMO) for full restoration so the header part will most likely be fender headers but they look trashy with 2 tubes going down and then 2 through the fender. Then there's the hookers that all the tubes go through the fender, but then ttheres tire Clarence issues.
manual brakes power steering non ac.
 
Another note, what is the big drum on the motor home trannys?
I think its park brake but idk,
Will it fit or will the tale shaft have to be changed?
 
connerray said:
Is there a big block swap guide or sticky any were? I can't find one on BBD.com
The only place iv really found with helpful info is on Schumacher s web site (other than the header tech on BBD
I know I need the swap mounts, radiator, oil pan, headers, what els is involved?
I see a bunch of member builds that are swaps but there so lengthy and filled with people bull s'ing back and forth and discussing off topic stuff.
Thanks.
I'm not sure if I'm going with a BB or RB. What ever the best deal on craigslist come Friday. Right now its looking like a 440 and trany at $325 or a 400 in a Rv and the whole rv is 700 obo
Click to expand...

I've done 2 big block darts, both with 440's. Both with auto trans. To make the swap... You will need to check driveshaft length. I'd recomend peening over the pinch weld in the trans tunnel. You need a big block K, swap mounts or elepant ears, motor plate etc. Radiator needs to be up to the task. I'd recomend aluminum. Oil pan needs to be rear sump style and BB in A body style are available. Headers whether fenderwell, partial fenderwell or underchassis.

As far as engine selection goes. If you don't plan to stroke it go with the 440 RB. If you plan to build it and buy a stroker kit go low deck. Why would you want the hassle of a big block install only to end up with small block cubes?

Now there is plenty you can do in addition to make the car as a whole work better and be nicer but those are the bare bones basics.

Edit, you'll also find that clearence between the waterpump and radiator is tight. I'd run twin electric fans. I did this on both of mine and they work well.
 
connerray said:
Another note, what is the big drum on the motor home trannys?
I think its park brake but idk,
Will it fit or will the tale shaft have to be changed?
Click to expand...

It is a parking brake I believe.,...and you will need do dump it......
 
No strokers in the plans
Internal wise, wich is stouter?
I know the 400 suffers major in cr and there arnt any machine shops close so I have to keep that in consideration as well.
 
inkjunkie said:
Will be tight in regards to radiator/water pump area, many folks use electric fans...many folks throw a hissy fit over folks using electric fans.

You should consider heavier torsion bars....and obviously disc brakes if you don't already have them. Often times folks do have troubles with oil pans hitting the steering linkage.

Header choice is somewhat limited...at least as far as good fitting ones go... Depends..
Click to expand...

I run drums (12 years strong)..for now. They stop fine. That being said I just ordered dics, lol

Check out TTI's new shorty header 1 3/4". Schumachers are a cinch. Pro parts are a great fit but you have to cut the inner fenders and the collectors leave much to be desired.
 
There is no step-by-step for the build because there are many ways to get it done with many different intended uses. At one time this swap was not nearly as easy as it is today with the available parts and information on the internet, but you still have to form your own plan based on your specific skills and needs...
 
What is every ones view on a 413 from a 63 new yorker? Other than the piston problem I can't fine a hole lot on them
 
I gotta really nice iron BB bellhousing, but if you wouldn't pay 75 for a Magnum PS pump bracket pulley and all, you sure as heck ain't gonna buy the bellhousin.
 
connerray said:
What is every ones view on a 413 from a 63 new yorker? Other than the piston problem I can't fine a hole lot on them
Click to expand...

As used in that vehicle the 413 had 10:1 compression, a forged crank and made decent hp in stock form at either 375 or 400hp. It's also a RB. I'd use one for the right price.

​
 
It's a small bore 440 with poor heads. If it was me I'd pass. The 63 should have bolt in rocker stands (non standard rocker support system - with heavier valve springs they tend to move around and I'm not sure if any modern rockers will work) and 4 bolt valve covers, in addition to needing custom pistons if you rebuild it. IMO - pass.
 
roccodart440 said:
As used in that vehicle the 413 had 10:1 compression, a forged crank and made decent hp in stock form at either 375 or 400hp. It's also a RB. I'd use one for the right price.
Click to expand...
I think your wrong on your HP quote there, he aint talking about a max wedge 413, just a regular old big car 413.....
 
63 413 in a New Yorker was probably 340hp. The single four barrel engine was either 340 or 360 horsepower. I had the 360hp engine in a 64 300K for a short time. Very good runner.

Lots of potential. Even in stock form the car will perform decent.
 
roccodart440 said:
I those numbers are wrong the website i looked it up on was wrong.
Click to expand...
Everything I read says 340 HP on a regular 413.. Not to be confused with the letter cars, that may have had different intake packages. Just a regular 413 from a imperial. The engine does have potential, but the cost of pistons makes the 440 a better choice IMO
 
The 360hp 413 (single four barrel 300 letter engine for 64 and 65 ONLY) used the same intake, but a different cam, dual point distributor, and possibly a different carb (I don't have any of my books handy). I do know that the one I had was a great runner on the highway. Sadly, I was not in a position to keep it, but it grew on me quickly...
 
The 440 I'm looking at is 325 obo with tranns
The 413 is 700 obo with tranns

413 runs
440 says bad head gasket which isn't a big deal
 
If he'll let you verify the head ggasket's blown and not a crack somewhere 440 all the way but if that's the motor home one the trans is good for parts - you'll have to change the output shaft and tail housing with a passenger car version.
 
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