Shaun65dart
Well-Known Member
Since I have given you guys all of the voltage readings at multiple locations, what should those readings be if things were working properly?
Could the Coil Positive and VR Feed (IGN) be on the wrong side of the ballast resistor?The Petronix is connected to the blue wire that goes to the ballast resistor. The bright blue wire going to the same spot is an aftermarket tachometer. The red wire coming off the battery and going thru the firewall along with the speedometer cable is not attached to anything
Ok. I think I got what you're saying.The Petronix is connected to the blue wire that goes to the ballast resistor. The bright blue wire going to the same spot is an aftermarket tachometer. The red wire coming off the battery and going thru the firewall along with the speedometer cable is not attached to anything
Everything in the red rectangles should have either the battery voltage or the alternator output voltage, which ever is higher. There will be a small drop from whichever one is higher at the point the current goes toward the ignition, headlights or any other item consuming power.Since I have given you guys all of the voltage readings at multiple locations, what should those readings be if things were working properly?
Yes. Whatever the battery is, it should be very close to the same.So at the VR should I be getting 12 volts instead of the 6 I’m getting?
Yes. Whatever the battery is, it should be very close to the same.
With the alternator running, it will be 14.5ish; or in the current situation, you should have seen 16 volts.
Since I have given you guys all of the voltage readings at multiple locations, what should those readings be if things were working properly?
Fer Chriz sake. Run a big wire.......no 10 or a PAIR of no 10 direct from the alternator output to the battery. At least temporarily. That will eliminate about 7/10 of the problem "for now"
^ This brown wire may have been a hack to bring power from the alternator output directly to the ignition terminal. I'm guessing this because one end (near the alternator?) is broken and read 6 Volts sugesting its attached to the other wires at 6 Volts. Attached to the alternator output, it would have been full voltage.I do have a brown wire that runs along the valve cover that is not hooked up to anything. That has 6.1 volts
So if I'm correct about the brown wire, that hack that would mean the field and ignition were always powered, even with the ignition switch off.problems are likely in draws from the Pertronix installation or the non-factory wires that go who knows where. People adding electrical stuff to cars that "don't know lectricity" are dangerous, and that describes many mechanics.
Is this in reference to the photo of the starter relay and bulkhead?The picture won’t load but it’s the wire directly to the left
This is a big help in understand what has been done.I should have mentioned this and it slipped my mind. The car is started by a start button the PO wired in. So, turn the key to run position and press the button to start
The key will still turn the engine over and start the engine occasionally. I assume it’s faulty and that’s why the PO put the button in. Sorry for not mentioning this earlier everyone
It shouldn't be the problem. It only passes current when the switch is closed. But until we figure out where both wires jumper, there's always a possibility it connects in some way to something...Ok so with the ignition key off, the push button will turn the engine over, just not start it. So it’s getting power all the time. Would this be the current draw that is causing the problem?
Thanks. OK. Got it. You answered while I was typing.The last picture is the push button starter. Those are the two wires going to it. They are in the same insulation that is going to the starter relay with the wire that was not identifiable in the previous post I drew the yellow line to