Sorry I don't understand your rambling description.
At one point you said "hot at pos dead at neg!" The neg side of coil will be either hot or cold depending on whether the points are open or closed
You need to be VERY SPECIFIC about stating test results
Key on? Key in run? Cranking? If cranking are you using the key or a remote starter?
PLEASE read my previous post
THIS IS a SIMPLE series circuit.
Power comes from the BATTERY,.......goes to the STARTER RELAY LARGE STUD.........goes through the FUSE LINK..........through the BULKHEAD CONNECTOR..........to the AMMETER.........to the IGNITION SWITCH............back out the BULKHEAD CONNECTOR...............to the BALLAST RESISTOR............to the COIL POSITIVE............through thecoil...........to the COIL NEGATIVE............to the ...........DISTRIBUTOR...........through the POINTS............to ..........GROUND.
With
KEY IN RUN
NOT CRANKING
POINTS CLOSED
You should have the following:
At one end of ballast same as battery voltage
at coil end of ballast a much lower voltage, perhaps 6V
At coil POS same voltage as above, perhaps 6V
At coil NEG very LOW voltage, close to zero
========================================
Bump engine until points open
Should have same as battery voltage at ALL the below..............
Both sides of ballast, coil pos and coil neg, and at points wire terminal in distributor
==========================================
With engine cranking, voltage at coil NEG should jump up and down as points open / close
YOU WILL NOT repeat WILL NOT have good spark if............
You have low voltage to coil
you have a bad coil
============================================================================
IMPORTANT!!!!!
if points are corroded and not actually carrying current
CHECK that the points have low resistance. CLOSE the points by bumping engine. Turn key to RUN. MEASURE voltage at coil NEG. It should be VERY LOW. Less than 1 volt, the less the better
if CONDENSER IN DISTRIBUTOR IS BAD. A "new" condenser does NOT mean a "good" IE functioning condenser.
Things you MUST HAVE. There are no exceptions, there is no negotiation
SHOP MANUAL. Download one here, there's a 65 Plymouth manual
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=244981
DWELL METER. If you are gonna screw with breaker points you need a tach/ dwell tester. Just about all of them have a POINTS RESISTANCE test position
MULTIMETER. You need a decent multimeter, some clip leads which you can get at Radio Shack, and a test lamp, which I'd guess you do have.