Connectors Under Dash

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spinman_1949

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I need to rework some connections. Can anyone provide pics and directions to remove the inserts in the factory connector I can do some rewiring work? I hate splicing stuff. Right now I just need to rework the brake light connections. One wire goes up under the dash who knows where and the other goes to the arness that connects below the steering column. I want to do some work with that harness and connector. The internal connections are square. Do they come out and how do I get them to release from the body of the harness connector?
 
Try a store in your area if you have an electrical supply house nearby ..such as frys or radio shack...have some small tools to help this...spade type that mopar used with the slot in the spade requires that you lightly pinch the slot together then tug on the wire..round ones like under dash switch connector require a hollow tube type,slide over pin.like 67dart273 says all have some type of tab...with tool inserted pull on wire..don't insert tool then pull out tool then tug on wire ,this doesn't work..tug while tool is in there..like the connectors on the alternator ,ill grind a exacto blade thin remove sharp edge and square it off.insert tool and tug ..or sometimes a straight piece of wire like a straightened paper clip ..most connectors hav a slot or place for the tab..look inside and you will see the tab in some instances..and the tool goes in from the front not the wire side..im rambling..you ll figure it out..j
 
I think I will for this connector just get a 12 pin molex and forget trying to uncrimp and rewire. Likely less headache. Plus the contacts in this connector are very corroded as well.
 
You didn't tell us the year of your car. Early ones (to ~1970) used a 2 row connector on the steering column with squarish pins. Later ones (key in column?) had a long single row connector. The early ones are easy to release with a little screwdriver. I even did that in a junkyard in 1 min. Sorry, I don't have photos, but just play with it and should be obvious. There is a name for that connector, but forgot. You can't buy new ones. I recall it was a firewall connector in some GM or Ford's. The other 2 & 3 pin connectors under dash as mostly "Packard 56 terminal" type, sometimes called "GM, Mopar". You can buy most parts on ebay or auto electronics supply. Those pins are trickier to release. The female pins need a thin, flat screwdriver type thing, best with the end bent down slightly. I made a tool from a tiny hand saw from the dollar store. The male pins are squeezed longitudinally to close the long gap, and wiggle out.
 
Sorry I forgot to identify the car.

1969 Dart 340 GTS. So you are correct. It is the connector that has the square pins. I have 10 sets of 6 pin waterproof connectors coming. I can rewire the dash as well. Been having problems with the gas gauge as well.

I could use some of the lamp holders for the instrument panel. The black ones that break tabs. I also might be interested in a new panel if anyone has one in good condition. The speedo on ths one jumps all over the place.
 
clean and graphite lube your speedo cable if it's jumping. that's if thr drives aren't worn out, in that case you'd need a cable.
 
spinman1949 said:
Sorry I forgot to identify the car.

1969 Dart 340 GTS. So you are correct. It is the connector that has the square pins. I have 10 sets of 6 pin waterproof connectors coming. I can rewire the dash as well. Been having problems with the gas gauge as well.

I could use some of the lamp holders for the instrument panel. The black ones that break tabs. I also might be interested in a new panel if anyone has one in good condition. The speedo on ths one jumps all over the place.
Click to expand...

I most cases, the speedo needle jumping is due to cable problem.
There is a place under the drives seat where the cable makes a nearly 90 degree turn. That's where they stick. If you flush the sheathe and lube the cable, then the needle still jumps, you wont know where the problem is. If you replace cable/sheathe assembly and the needle jumps you know the problem is in the instrument itself.

There is one advantage to factories connectors being different types... they cant be put together wrong.

I have plenty of used inst' lamp sockets but they are not worth the cost of shipping. One cant look at those tiny plastic tangs and know if they are about to break on not.
NAPA part number for new.. 787140
If you shop elsewhere, you can sometimes find a few of these on the HELP parts rack. Take a sample with you though because there are 3 different sizes of these.
 
I can tell you how I do it, doesn't mean mine is the only way...
First I unscrew the sheathe collector nut from the trans and point it to a shop towel.
Then I go in the cab and pull the cable from the sheathe. Then I flush the cable and the sheathe interior first with brake cleaner then with compressed air. Then I take a tub of white lithium grease to the floor board and grease the cable between my fingers while shoving it back into the sheathe. Reattach sheathe at trans. Use Q-tip to remove excess grease inside instrument connector. Reattach to instrument.
 
Thx

I just happen to have a big tube of lithium grease. I was actually thinking of using it. It works great on the garage door opener screw.
 
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