Cooling problems

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not down here in our heat, tried all that before going to the Contour fans with Dakota controller and this setup is the best I have tried. Drove it yesterday with temps in 90's and not a problem.

Me to . I live on the Sun . Got to push some air.
 
not down here in our heat, tried all that before going to the Contour fans with Dakota controller and this setup is the best I have tried. Drove it yesterday with temps in 90's and not a problem.
Do you have a list of the parts. What year and engine contour, and dakota.
What radiator did you use
 
Do you have a list of the parts. What year and engine contour, and dakota.
What radiator did you use[/ this is what I didI bought mine on Ebay for about $50, but if you see a Contour or Mystique with a 24V DOHC badge on the side, it has this fan.

I would personally rather have a used OEM Ford/Bosch motor on my car than a chinese replacement one of questionable quality.

To do what I did, you need:
1) Electric Fan setup from 1995-2000 Ford Contour, Mercury
Mystique, or Mercury Cougar with 2.5L 24V V6 engine
2) Fan motor Connectors (3x) Standard Motor Products PN S287
3) Dakota Digital Fan Controller PN: PAC-2750
4) 70 amp Relay (one comes with controller, two needed) Dakota
Digital PN: RLY-3
5) 60 amp Maxi-Fuse with Holder, Ron Francis PN MF60
6) Inline Fuse holders with 5a fuse (2x)
7) 10 ga wire for fan power and grounds (red and black
recommended)
8) 18 ga wire for control circuits
9) 4 ft 1/8” x 1 aluminum flat bar

This is my hastily made wiring diagram:
Contour_Fan_Wiring_zpsfc112fe5.jpg


And the remaining settings/notes:
-Set controller to use a “Dual Speed Fan”
-With a 180 thermostat, set low speed on to 195,
and off to 192. High speed should be set to on
at 205 and off at 200
- The fan will draw about 18 amps on low and 30
on high. This will likely require alternator
upgrades. My car runs a 78 amp 12SI Delco
from a 1985 Pontiac Firebird 305 V8. Do not
draw this current though the factory amp gauge
and bulkhead connector
 
I copied this from Goldduster 318. It is an excellent setup and what I followed
 
Hey I found the answer to everybody's cooking problems. It's soposed to work 100 percent. Just need to know who's going to try it out first. Lol

IMG_0719.PNG
 
I just bought a Delta 2sp controller from a guy on EBay . He bought the unit and was waiting for the Taurus fan He ordered. For what ever reason his wife up and buys him a Griffen fan and controller set. So He was selling the Delta.$70 shipped . They retail for
$90. I've heard a lot of good things about Delta controllers.
 
image.jpg
Zigs,
I just got over heating problems,my 440/6pack was overflowing on hot days,in traffic,PISSING ME OFF! So I posted problem and a host of suggestions, (I was thankful) I went this route, new water pump, still the same running 220, checked radiator (same 220) radiator fine, I changed thermostat to factory specs 195(for six pack) same then I finally changed CAP!! To a new 16ib, it holds water now ENOUGH TO COOL!! 180 on hway on hot days in traffic 190-210. Good for now! But I WILL BE GOING WITH A CHAMPION RADIATOR! 26" ( MIne is stock 26")
A LOT GOOD HELP HERE!!! GREAT GUYS!!
Mitch
 
I had a fiberglass one on my '69 Bee it worked fine 440/6/4 speed same as my dart
 
This myth just won't die:

Slower flow sometimes works better because it allows the coolant to absorb more heat from the engine and sink it into the radiator better because it is in them longer- moving slower.

Unless the laws of thermodynamics were re-issued, that's just not true. Period.
Sometimes slower flow works better because the pump is cavitating from excessive RPM.
 
This myth just won't die:



Unless the laws of thermodynamics were re-issued, that's just not true. Period.
Sometimes slower flow works better because the pump is cavitating from excessive RPM.
^^Correct^^ I've also been told it might have to do with steam pockets/ turbulance etc in the block. The old "slower flow theory" is against all the (damn little) I used to know about heat exchangers
 
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