curious about valve lash setting/check

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just want to thank all for the help-'thank you'. haven't had time to get out there since Thursday night. the last two days were spent helping a friend. I only have a few 'friends', so when they call, I help, and vise versa (the few are golden, AND, they put up with me). you might like this though....I was taking cabinets out to his place whenever I could get them from work. took a while, trying to get proper sizes. he asked if we could clean out the corner (that's a job in itself) and get them installed because they were taking up needed room. so Friday and Saturday were spent at his place. here's the outcome. I'll get back to the car today if nothing else pops up.
shop before.jpg
 
oldmusclelover said:
just want to thank all for the help-'thank you'. haven't had time to get out there since Thursday night. the last two days were spent helping a friend. I only have a few 'friends', so when they call, I help, and vise versa (the few are golden, AND, they put up with me). you might like this though....I was taking cabinets out to his place whenever I could get them from work. took a while, trying to get proper sizes. he asked if we could clean out the corner (that's a job in itself) and get them installed because they were taking up needed room. so Friday and Saturday were spent at his place. here's the outcome. I'll get back to the car today if nothing else pops up. View attachment 1715427825
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whoops, forgot the after photo
shop after.jpg
 
If I wasn't so sick of driving and didn't hate the drive up north more than ear aches and watered gin put together I'd drive up from Vancouver and help you. Bad enough making the drive to Yakima and points north of there. That trip up I-5 tests every fiber of my being.
 
yellow rose said:
If I wasn't so sick of driving and didn't hate the drive up north more than ear aches and watered gin put together I'd drive up from Vancouver and help you. Bad enough making the drive to Yakima and points north of there. That trip up I-5 tests every fiber of my being.
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you don't need to explain yellow rose, I feel your pain there as I have to drive into Seattle for work. takes years off one's life span. thanks again for the offer though, very decent of you.
 
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oldmusclelover said:
Rusty, I'm certainly not trying to get you upset. all the help here said 1/4 to 3/4 turn, so I went light with 3/8 in case I wasn't feeling the 'drag' correctly, just trying to be cautious.
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Not at all, but nobody in their right mind would think of 3/8 of a turn. Turns on rocker adjustment are kept in increments of 90*. MUCH easier to keep up with. 1/4 turn, 1/2 turn, 3/4 turn, 1 turn. See how that works? LOL
 
alright then, what should I do then, 3/4 of a turn? I'll do what you recommend and start her and let he run. by the way, I keep having problems with the t-stat housing leaking. doesn't seem to be anything other than the gasket. should I make my own, and if so, what would you recommend for thickness/type? thanks again guys, and I'm glad I didn't ruffle your feathers Rusty, by the way.....who said I was in my right mind?
 
oldmusclelover said:
alright then, what should I do then, 3/4 of a turn? I'll do what you recommend and start her and let he run. by the way, I keep having problems with the t-stat housing leaking. doesn't seem to be anything other than the gasket. should I make my own, and if so, what would you recommend for thickness/type? thanks again guys, and I'm glad I didn't ruffle your feathers Rusty, by the way.....who said I was in my right mind?
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Yeah try 3/4. I always consider 3/4 turn as FAR as I will go with hydraulic lifters. That is to say, as long as you KNOW you are 3/4 of a turn down from zero lash and ON the base circle. 3/4 is on the heavy side, IMO and certainly more than enough to get rid of any clatter from the valve adjustment. So if you do it right, 3/4 is plenty.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Yeah try 3/4. I always consider 3/4 turn as FAR as I will go with hydraulic lifters. That is to say, as long as you KNOW you are 3/4 of a turn down from zero lash and ON the base circle. 3/4 is on the heavy side, IMO and certainly more than enough to get rid of any clatter from the valve adjustment. So if you do it right, 3/4 is plenty.
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thank you, do you have a suggestion for the t-stat housing? I have an assortment of gasket material and was thinking to use the rubber-cellulose (calls out for water/coolant). the Edelbrock intake is a nasty looking casting at the thermostat (pitting and such). I can run to the parts store if need be.
 
oldmusclelover said:
thank you, do you have a suggestion for the t-stat housing? I have an assortment of gasket material and was thinking to use the rubber-cellulose (calls out for water/coolant). the Edelbrock intake is a nasty looking casting at the thermostat (pitting and such). I can run to the parts store if need be.
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How BAD is it? If it's all that bad, you can fill the pits in good with JB Weld to fill it in and then file it back down smooth.
 
oldmusclelover said:
View attachment 1715427941
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Makes sure that surface isn't warped from overtightening , might surprise you .
A slight pain int e a-- to do, but u could chuck the therm. cover up in a lathe and turn the gasket surface down about .060ish , quiting at the inside of the bolt holes. Creating a raised surface around the big water hole for the gasket to bite/smash better.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Not at all, but nobody in their right mind would think of 3/8 of a turn. Turns on rocker adjustment are kept in increments of 90*. MUCH easier to keep up with. 1/4 turn, 1/2 turn, 3/4 turn, 1 turn. See how that works? LOL
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Aww Rob. On an iron head I'm a zero-1/8 turn pre-load guy if I'm forced to use hydraulic lifters. That or take all the pre-load out and back it off 1/4 turn. But then you met me and already know I'm not in my right mind!
 
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IQ52 said:
Aww Rob. On an iron head I'm a zero-1/8 turn pre-load guy if I'm forced to use hydraulic lifters. That or take all the pre-load out and back it off 1/4 turn. But then you met me and already know I'm not in my right mind!
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So am I. That's why I said I consider 3/4 on the heavy side.
 
RustyRatRod said:
So am I. That's why I said I consider 3/4 on the heavy side.
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Rusty, I value your opinion. you first said to adjust 1/4 - 1/2, so I went 3/8 (in between), thought that was safe. I did a bunch of reading in here and (correct me if I'm wrong) too much may float a valve at high rpm's? that's why I wanted to set it low, as you suggested. I may have been alright at 3/8, but didn't run it long enough (as you said) to get the oil pumped up again. that being said, I don't want to be on the extreme side of adjustment, and I'm not second guessing you here. I'm going with what you said first 1/2 as your extreme, unless you say different, and don't you dare say 6/16's, LOL.
 
oldmusclelover said:
Rusty, I value your opinion. you first said to adjust 1/4 - 1/2, so I went 3/8 (in between), thought that was safe. I did a bunch of reading in here and (correct me if I'm wrong) too much may float a valve at high rpm's? that's why I wanted to set it low, as you suggested. I may have been alright at 3/8, but didn't run it long enough (as you said) to get the oil pumped up again. that being said, I don't want to be on the extreme side of adjustment, and I'm not second guessing you here. I'm going with what you said first 1/2 as your extreme, unless you say different, and don't you dare say 6/16's, LOL.
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Thing is, we don't know what lifters are there. If they are Rhoads for example, they will make noise pretty much no matter what at low RPM. Until RPM builds up they reduce the lash back to normal. That might be one way to tell. Gently run the engine up in RPM and listen closely to the noise. If it goes away or lessens greatly at or around 3500 or so, they may be Rhoads. A lot of people think they are controlled by oil pressure. They are not. They are RPM dependent on operation. Oil pressure has nothing to do with it. Run it up in RPM and see what you get.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Thing is, we don't know what lifters are there. If they are Rhoads for example, they will make noise pretty much no matter what at low RPM. Until RPM builds up they reduce the lash back to normal. That might be one way to tell. Gently run the engine up in RPM and listen closely to the noise. If it goes away or lessens greatly at or around 3500 or so, they may be Rhoads. A lot of people think they are controlled by oil pressure. They are not. They are RPM dependent on operation. Oil pressure has nothing to do with it. Run it up in RPM and see what you get.
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will do, and thanks again. still have some work to do, but I'm taking tonight off. I'll get back to it tomorrow, and I will keep you informed.
 
I'm with RRR above^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Also with his previous post.......IT MAY TAKE UP TO 30 MINUTE TO PUMP THE AIR OUT OF THE LIFTER.
Aka i wouldn't pull a valve cover until the oil is warm aka coolant temp is up to normal.

As far as the t stat housing.
Get a "old" flat file that you don't care about and gently file the intake and housing back flat.
keeping the file flat, so as to NOT round the corners. with in a couple of swipes of the file you will know if it is flat or not!

If it is a chrome t- stat housing, THROW IT AWAY!!!!! Or file all the chrome off of the gasket surface. Which will cause the chrome to peel and look like ****........aka Throw It AWay!!!
 
AJ i have said it before and while say it again.
I injoy your L-O-N-G(aks informative) posts.
There just jealous:mob::poke::D
 
I took my Aluminium T-stat housing and laid a piece of 80 Grit sandpaper on a flat (Surface) bench and sanded it. I was amazed how much it took to get it flat. I wouldn't be afraid of a little RTV with the gasket either. (a little)
 
Besides all the other advice regarding the leaky t-stat housing, once you get both surfaces flat, the best bet is to glue the gasket to one surface using something like Gaskacinch, let it dry, and then use a little silicone sealant on the other side of the gasket when you assemble it. And don't over-tighten it!
 
69_340_GTS said:
Besides all the other advice regarding the leaky t-stat housing, once you get both surfaces flat, the best bet is to glue the gasket to one surface using something like Gaskacinch, let it dry, and then use a little silicone sealant on the other side of the gasket when you assemble it. And don't over-tighten it!
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69, this is the second time it's leaked on me (probably due to me over tightening), so I stopped and bought some water pump & thermostat housing gasket maker. I was going to use that, unless I hear it's not the way to go. I didn't get a gasket, but can make one, have material. and as to tightening, 15 lbs?
 
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