dash wiring help please part II

-
reno340

reno340

I Am The Big Dog
Joined
Dec 30, 2005
Messages
105
Reaction score
12
Location
Maryland
I am working on the dash wiring in my 72 Duster 340. When I bought the car it somehow had a dash harness from a 73. I had the dash out and had worked on the dash wiring. Using a schematic, I had traced out and rectified any discrepencies. I put it in and hooked it up today. I have no rear body harness hooked up yet. The Problem that I had run into is that when I turn on the ignition, the turn signal flasher makes a noise as if the signals are on even though they are off. Nothing changes when I turn on the turn signal in either right or left position. the front park/turn signal bulbs do not light using the turn signals. The park lamps work fine. The black wire to the flasher is hot when I turn on the ignition switch. The red wire is not. I don't remember if that changes (red wire) when I use the turn signal. Black wire still remains hot. The flashers work fine.
I am also having some problems with the wiper motor. I haven't fully checked it out but noticed that it doesn't seem to have power to it.
I also have # six fuse blowing which has a large blue w/ white stripe wire and smaller blue wire comming from the other side of the fuse. Any help would be appreciated.
 
reno340 said:
I am working on the dash wiring in my 72 Duster 340. When I bought the car it somehow had a dash harness from a 73. I had the dash out and had worked on the dash wiring. Using a schematic, I had traced out and rectified any discrepencies. I put it in and hooked it up today. I have no rear body harness hooked up yet. The Problem that I had run into is that when I turn on the ignition, the turn signal flasher makes a noise as if the signals are on even though they are off. Nothing changes when I turn on the turn signal in either right or left position. the front park/turn signal bulbs do not light using the turn signals. The park lamps work fine. The black wire to the flasher is hot when I turn on the ignition switch. The red wire is not. I don't remember if that changes (red wire) when I use the turn signal. Black wire still remains hot. The flashers work fine.
I am also having some problems with the wiper motor. I haven't fully checked it out but noticed that it doesn't seem to have power to it.
I also have # six fuse blowing which has a large blue w/ white stripe wire and smaller blue wire comming from the other side of the fuse. Any help would be appreciated.
Click to expand...

Anybody?
 
reno340 said:
Anybody?
Click to expand...
I have an underdash harness from a 71 Demon laying in the garage that I am planning on selling. It looks good but does need a little TLC, small things like there is a wire spliced into the cigarette lighter power wire, and maybe needs cleaned up. Nothing serious. I don't know if you want to go through the trouble to replace your 73 harness with this one but its an option. I do believe the 70-72 are the same but there were some differences in the 73 and up. PM me if interested.
 
Actually, there are two harnesses for 72 alone (ealy vs late 72) 1970 and 1971 had their own. I found this out when I bought a mint 1970 non rally dash harness from a duster. I appreciate the offer though.:notworth:I thought about making it work but it was too nice to cut it up
 
The front signal bulb ( 1157 ) and the corresponding indicater on the dash should come on. The flasher probably wouldn't operate though. Not enough draw.
 
I have an update to my problem. I have since hooked up the whole system, added a ground to the steering column and tested the turn signal switch. I found the switch to be faulty and bought a new switch and hooked it up. (not installed in steering column yet) I turned on the hazzard lights and yahoooo, I've got 4-ways!! I used a 20 amp circuit breaker w/ alligator clips and used it in place of the fuse for my turn signal/heater blower motor/? location on the fuse box. I turned on the ignition and turned on the signal and I had turn signals both ways! I think I turned off the inition switch and turned it back on to test the heater motor again. I do know that I turned on the heater blower motor and it ram fine. somewhere along the way it ended up that my original problem of the signals not working and the signal flasher clicking when the ignition is on even when the signal is off. I disconnected the heater blower motor switch and tried it again but the clicking and no signal lights continued to be a problem. I do not remember if any of this happened because of depressing the brake but I don't think so. (it has been over a week since). What gives? :dontknow:

BTW, I do not think the under dash harness is incorrect as it is pretty consistant w/ the wiring diagram other than some of the fuse box (and no schematic I have looked at from 72-73 has matched up very well):dontknow:
:dontknow:


:dontknow:
 
Sounds like a short circuit in the harness maybe? Have you ran through it with a test meter? I had a crack in my harness that caused all kinds of havoc with the ignition switch.
 
Have you not looked at the rear harness or the coinnecters to it ?
Does the car have fender mounted signals ? Those wire locations in the bulkhead connecter changed at some year model. Dont remember exactly. I think I would disconnet those for now and concentrate on the 4 main signals.
In most cases the flasher wont click/work at all without enough draw. One front signal bulb, one indicater lamp, and one fender moumted lamp, might be enough draw to make a flasher click although slowly. Trailer mounted bulbs increase the draw and cause a flasher to click faster than normal. They would overheat too which is cured with a heavy duty flasher. I hope this info is atleast some help.
 
RedFish said:
Have you not looked at the rear harness or the coinnecters to it ?
Does the car have fender mounted signals ? Those wire locations in the bulkhead connecter changed at some year model. Dont remember exactly. I think I would disconnet those for now and concentrate on the 4 main signals.
In most cases the flasher wont click/work at all without enough draw. One front signal bulb, one indicater lamp, and one fender moumted lamp, might be enough draw to make a flasher click although slowly. Trailer mounted bulbs increase the draw and cause a flasher to click faster than normal. They would overheat too which is cured with a heavy duty flasher. I hope this info is atleast some help.
Click to expand...

The problem isn't that it won't flash. I am having the flasher make a clicking noise as if the signals were on and the lights do not light up except for that one moment before I checked to see if the heater motor turned on. 4-ways work normally and the brake lights work. I can't keep a fuse in the turn signal slot on the fuse box.
 
Horay, I finally found the short! I knew it was in the under dash harness but just could not seem to find it and none of it made any sense. I asked a lot of questions and no one seemed to know the answer either. I did some reading on automotive wiring and read about a short finder. I had never heard of such a thing but I bought one. I got the basic intermittant short finder. To make a long story short, I had put in some aftermarket gauges and had run the mounting screw through the harness which caused the short. Fixed the insulation, spliced dammaged wires and wrapped it all up. It is now fixed! Thank you all for helping and I thought I would share what Paul Harvey would say "is,..... the rest of the story." :cheers:

BTW, this is what the Short finder looks like:

carlisle 015.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top