Need more help here. I'm installing a Howards hydraulic Ratter cam in my 340. I need to check my valve to piston clearance and get my pushrod length figured out. I have decked the block for finish so I could use SM closed chamber aluminum heads and Crane roller rockers that came with the engine. The pistons have been machined to zero deck height and I am using .040-.045 head gaskets with L-2316 thirty over pistons. Short of buying 1 solid lifter to check this does anyone have another idea? The Howards lifter has a seat height of 1.892. The closest I can find on a mechanical lifter is a comp cam solid with a 1.880, close enough. I know pushrods can be had in .050 increments. I just don't want to wait another week and spend $70.00 on a one time use lifter.
Do I need a solid lifter?
- Thread starter spd691
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Dan the man
Well-Known Member
Ask your machine shop to loan you a lifter. That's what I did when I checked my pushrod length in a 302 that I did years ago. I wouldn't think that he would have a problem helping you out.
I have them. I still need a firm lifter for accurate lift. Yes, I could use a dial indicator on the retainer, but still need accurate lift.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
This right here. Disassemble a hydraulic and shim it up solid. Washers or a slug of aluminum works well.
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I would just buy the tool that fits the lifter bore. Dead nuts accurate.
Something like this
Proform Parts 66843 Proform Cam Checker Tools | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Proform Cam Checker Tools with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Camshaft Checking Fixtures at Summit Racing.
Exactly like that. There's no substitute for accuracy.Something like this
Proform Parts 66843 Proform Cam Checker Tools | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Proform Cam Checker Tools with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Camshaft Checking Fixtures at Summit Racing.www.summitracing.com
Yea. I think I will give that a shot. I really didnt want to disassemble the lifter but I think I will.
I used a solid lift since I had a few spares. I’m glad I did because Disassembling a Hyd lifter for this is just a LIA, though very minor, it’s still a PIA, really more annoying, LMAO!
Why are you balking at buying the tool? How much money does the picture in your original post represent and you're going to balk at another 100 bucks or a little less for a tool that can be reused over and over......or even resold? Talk about makin no sense.
Mr. Sinister
Devastation Manager
Forget what site you are on?
I am confused as to how that tool would help my situation with regard to checking valve to piston clearance and pushrod length I can measure the cam lobe lift with a mag. base dial indicator. I have already measured the cam and checked the intake centerline. Now that that is set I need to make sure no contact is made.
Well, admittedly, it won't do THAT, but it is the most accurate way to degree the camshaft. IMO, you won't come anywhere near valve to piston contact. Remember, it's the duration that makes it happen, not the lift. It's the WHEN, not the how much. Those pistons have pretty generous valve reliefs. Even still, you really can't be too careful. That's a lot of money you have tied up.
furrystump
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Can’t you just set up the cylinder, adjust the lifter until it bottoms out the lifter and use the clay method. Put the lifter under spring pressure and put a dial ind on the retainer. When it stops collapsing set zero lash.
furrystump
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As to pushrod length, what type of retainer does the lifter have? Cheap wire or sturdy snap ring? Look to see if the cup is against the snap ring. If it is, then adjust it as normal with an adjustable pushrod and measure it. Wire retainer, I would go deeper to keep the cup away from the wire retainer.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
It’s easy, very easy in fact. And if more people disassembled lifters and cleaned them when new, I bet we’d have a lot less cam failures reported.
I agree its easy. just need to be super careful with the check valve and CLEAN.
I took out the spring and check valve found a spacer that fit right in perfectly. Working it now.
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