Duster Questions and Advise

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Been reading this post but there has been no mention of a budget. Do you have one and do you have any idea as to the amount of money you intend to turn loose of? I have both types of power units in Dusters. Built em here in the shop. I know all the headaches. I've got one tough 318, if you want to call it that, that will run circles around a stock 340. Love that little car. Also i have a mild street 440 that just keeps on keepin on. The 318 will ruin more tires than you can afford if your foot is big enough as will the 440 but there's always that WOW factor with the Big Block. You may be able to buy an already built car cheaper than you can build one. ......I know. You can dump $10000 in a drive train alone for a Big Block.....I know. I'm talkin motor, tranny, and rear diff, and wheels and tires. But damn it's fun.
Small Block
 
Thanks ramenth for taking a look and seeing what I meant by what I said....wasnt trying to come off as a know it all. I just learned from an old mopar buddy of mine about that awhile back....He said it and I was like "what?" "what are you talking about?" lol....and sure enough he showed me and I was surprised....I had never payed enough attention to even notice it.
 
DusterDude72 said:
Thanks ramenth for taking a look and seeing what I meant by what I said....wasnt trying to come off as a know it all. I just learned from an old mopar buddy of mine about that awhile back....He said it and I was like "what?" "what are you talking about?" lol....and sure enough he showed me and I was surprised....I had never payed enough attention to even notice it.
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So do you see it on the head pic above?
 
IMO, no one came off as a know it all. Sorry guys, I don't see the "J" on the head in the picture.

Chubz,

Now I heard a few blokes talking about stroking the motor to a 408, how would that effect my cam choice? Since the pistons are technically moving faster should that be a concern?
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Well, no real concern as far as I'm concerned. IF you really want to wind up the RPM's on a stroker, you'll just need a pro machinest and a big wallet.

Your cam choice? The cam will get bigger to maintain the same performance output. For an example, A Comp cam (Could be anybodies really) rated at 280 advertised, 230 @ .050 with a C-line of 110 has a advertised operating RPM of 2 - 6 thousand.

It will act like a big cam in a 318. It will have a chop to the idle, run best between 2200 to 6200 rpm. While in a 340 it comes down in RPM alittle bit to 2000 - 6200 with a normal muscle cam like sound, and in a 360 a tad more to something like 2000 - 6000 with a similar idle but not so banging choppy.

The same cam in a 400+ engine with it's much larger stroke can allmost make this cam feel like it has power off idle but top out at something like 5500 rpm. The choppy idle goes away lot as well.

These numbers are general and should not be taken as gospel. But it is something you'll find generally so. This was an example.

(I hate to write disclaimers everytime I try to explain something like this cause theres alllways some know it all, been there done that, knows a freind, there grand dad's second cusin with 3 nipples just out of jail did this exact thing and your wrong by 150 rpm, you should be ......

Ya ya ya ya, blow out a candle with my lower half in mind will ya!? :toothy10: )
Hummm, I think I just invented my new sig!
 
no I do not see it on that head...send a picture of the other head. I think one "J" is in fron and one is in back,alternator side is in front. I also do not know if certain year of the J heads were molded differently? But I obviously am not making up stories as others have verified. but yeah,try looking a picture of the other head....if nothing still,then either there is some difference in certain J heads or you dont have J heads.
 
chubz said:
I have learned over time that there is always going to be somebody bigger and faster. I just want to peel some tires, have a reliable car and put a smile on my face.
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I think it's time that a few things get cleared up for ya Chubz. With Schumacher or TTI headers there is no requirement to cut any inner fenders, unless of course you want fenderwell headers, when building a 500HP 440. You will also not have to swap the K Member as a couple companies like Schumacher sell mounts to put any V8 with any K member in your car. Yes the BB is heavier but with aluminum intake, water pump, heads, light weight starter, headers and fiberglass hood a 150 LB diet is doable. Know matter what engine you go with you'll have to make sure the braking is up to it oh by the way the non- power factory Kelsey Hayes, 4 piston, are great. With a high reving SB or BB you also need to upgrade your cooling, tranny, rear end and sub frame. Personally if you want to go BB I'd source a 400, stroke it to 452 and it'll fit a little easier in the bay than the 440 and still be a stump puller. This is what a 400 would look like under the hood even though this is 383, a 440 would be 3/4" taller. Oh yea, as far as supension mods are concerned, larger torsion bars will be needed, around .890". In the end you decide, I just thought that some accurate info was in order for the BB swaps.

Terry

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Small Block said:
Been reading this post but there has been no mention of a budget. Small Block
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Budget...I kinda don't have a a budget but I don't have a fat wallet. I plan on doing this over time so immediately I have nothing, but when its all said and done I can see spending 5g's on the motor alone.

I have a line on a 440 and a 727 for 800.00, I have an 8.75 rear end in the works at no cost other than the cost of axles.

I am torn hahaha. I think for the power I want I should just go with the 440, put in a mild cam, alum air gap intake and some headers.

back and forth back and forth....
 
That all up to you....it is your car after all,but a good percentage of this thread have all came to the same conclusion that it sounds asthough you want to burn some rubber......and a 360 is plenty capable of that....even a 318 for that matter. I wouldnt mind having a big block,don't get me wrong......but there is just to much time,money and hassle involved to make the swap happen....I am not made of money so I am going to go the cheaper and easier route. I personally am not building my duster to turn huge numbers at the drag strip or anything...I am building a nice looking good driver with a nice rumble and that has a good bit of get up and go to it....Im looking to put a 340 in it and it will probably be a daily driver when its done for the most part. but to each his own....build it to what you think it should be built as and good luck with what ever engine choice you decide to go with!
 
chubz said:
back and forth back and forth....
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Most of us experience that in our builds. A particular '69 Satellite comes to mind...should I go concourse or not? I've been that way for the past 20 years on it...
Everyone has given you some good suggestions, but can I throw my two cents in? You mention no set budget, but not a fat wallet, but have actually said you don't see any since in throwing $5G at the engine alone. Stick with that number or one you're comfortable with spending. Then start writing your own estimates on what you can get for the $5Gs, taking into account conversion swap pieces for the B/RB engine, then start comparing apples to apples, horse to horse. What will a B/RB get you for a price? What will an LA or Magnum get you for a price?
 
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