Eastwood epoxy primer

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Well I'll be. Our color coats are all Akzo Noble, along with the regular epoxy primers we use. I never even looked at the manufacturers name on the can, just the part number. Why yes I guess it is PPG. Probably the only PPG paint coating we use. I will have to edit my other posts to reflect that.

It is an impact resistant urethane compatible 2 part epoxy primer. Designed for aircraft radomes, so it's great for fiberglass parts. Part number is 512X310. Comes as a gallon of base and a gallon of activator. Mix 1 part to 1 part. I stir it well, then let it sit for about 20 minutes to start to chemically link up. Then mix it one last time, pour it into you paint gun and go. It tends to want to do a kinda fisheye looking thing if you spray it on heavy from the get go Several light tack coats and then one last slick coat works well. A kit with a gallon of primer and gallon of activator will run roughly $250. If I didnt have access to this when it goes out of date, I would be using Kirker epoxy primer.
 
Recommendations on spray bombs? Anything i have found is like $50 a can. I'm in Canada btw.
Pascamp said:
After reading my previous post I should elaborate, as many hobbyists don't understand what epoxy primers are or how to use them.

Epoxy primers are the backyard guys best friend. They allow you to work on manageable sections without throwing your car on a rotisserie. They are available in spray cans too. You strip the area to bare metal, degrease it, and then epoxy it. That's it! You can take your time, do body work, whatever. Then you scuff it, lay on regular primer, and paint.
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4spdragtop said:
Recommendations on spray bombs? Anything i have found is like $50 a can. I'm in Canada btw.
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The Eastwood stuff is roughly $25us a can. It certainly isn't the most economical way to go, but it's convenient. Like many guys I don't always have all day to mix, spray, clean guns, etc.
 
4spdragtop said:
Recommendations on spray bombs? Anything i have found is like $50 a can. I'm in Canada btw.
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I have no answer for a recommendation for spray bomb but have to ask why you would want to use the spray bomb system?
 
Pascamp said:
The Eastwood stuff is roughly $25us a can. It certainly isn't the most economical way to go, but it's convenient. Like many guys I don't always have all day to mix, spray, clean guns, etc.
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I disagree. It takes hardly any time at all to clean out a paint gun. I end up using may 10oz of MEK to wash it out when I do. Takes less than 5 minutes to measure and mix with the dixie cups. In the end its cheaper to buy this stuff in a kit, then mix n spray than to do it with rattle cans, plus it being a 2 part, its chemically cured. If you had a 2 part epoxy in a spray bomb it would harden inside the can. I dunno, but I just dont trust epoxy primer out of a spray can.
 
Thanks, Pacamp. Up here it looks like selection is VERY limited and shipping from US is not an option.
Here is a video review on Spray Max that's available here I'm going to watch


Pascamp said:
The Eastwood stuff is roughly $25us a can. It certainly isn't the most economical way to go, but it's convenient. Like many guys I don't always have all day to mix, spray, clean guns, etc.
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Curiosity mainly and because my car is on jack stands, outside, in a shelter.
Bodyperson said:
I have no answer for a recommendation for spray bomb but have to ask why you would want to use the spray bomb system?
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moparmat2000 said:
I disagree. It takes hardly any time at all to clean out a paint gun. I end up using may 10oz of MEK to wash it out when I do. Takes less than 5 minutes to measure and mix with the dixie cups. In the end its cheaper to buy this stuff in a kit, then mix n spray than to do it with rattle cans, plus it being a 2 part, its chemically cured. If you had a 2 part epoxy in a spray bomb it would harden inside the can. I dunno, but I just dont trust epoxy primer out of a spray can.
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it is 2 part. It's a one shot deal. Once you open it you gotta use it up. Not ideal for sure, but it has it's place for some people.
 
moparmat2000 said:
Actually looked at the expiration date on the cans today, its aircraft use expiration date was June of 2011 so that's definitely more than the 4 years I guesstimated a few posts back, and just edited. LOL. I guess time sure flies. Even with the older date, this stuff still mixes well, sprays great, dries quickly, and adheres like nobody's business. Plus I used it as a filler primer when I sprayed it on to fill in small clean pits in the metal on the rim bead areas on the wheels that were left after I glass bead blasted them. I got a full kit that makes 2 gallons of mixed material, I plan on using the **** out of this. Thank God I am done with the blast cabinet at work, and priming 1 wheel per day. That was getting sucky. A bit more to go and I can paint the fronts on all of em with high gloss black.

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Those look great I'm gonna have to do that to mine I'm gonna run steel wheels with dog dish caps with the body color on mine
 
Thanks. These are 85-89 15x7 fifth ave/diplomat M body rims with BBP. The 81-84 M body ones can be found in a 15x6 if you want narrower ones in the front. I got em for $13 each at the boneyard. Going to be black with chrome lug nuts. The 69 drag pack look. Lug nuts were $1 each at the local mag wheel joint. So $72 total in wheels. Got some nice off brand 225/60s for cheap from www.tireseasy.com for $57 each and free shipping for a 60,000 mile tire, so $300 in 4 new tires, with rims, and lugs is a pretty cheap way to go, plus it looks like it means business.
 
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moparmat2000, you mentonee cleanng the spray gun with MEK, that works better than laquer thinner on epoxy and polyester primers I guess? $25 vs $17 but if it does better, worth it!!?
Someone mentioned using the epoxy primer in a spray can, the best I have found is by Mar Hyde, expensive but big can, but I have used it to do small spots. It might be called an etch primer. No doubt the real stuff that is way two part is better stuff.
 
Yes it does. Ever try to clean lacquer primer up with enamel thinner? Doesnt work well. Neither does cleaning up epoxy w lacquer thinner. I have also used a little bit of MEK in a pinch to re thin some epoxy that was starting to get thick to make it flow able again. It is well worth the few dollars more to have it around just to use with epoxy primer to clean out a paint gun.
 
I’ve been using thicker rubber gloves anytime I fool with lacquer thinner, enamel thinner, or pretty much any paint products. If you get that stuff on your skin, it goes thru your blood stream and to your kidneys and liver in only a few seconds. Lord only knows how much of that stuff ran through me before I knew better!
 
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