Engine oil

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downsr

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Have a 416 with 500 miles on new engine.Used royal purple break in oil.Should i stay with royal purple.Do'nt know much about this oil was suggested by dyno guy just seems awful expensive and not real easy to get
 
It is IMO the best out there but that doesn't mean another good oil can not be used as well.
The main thing is to simply keep the filters fresh and the oil clean at the correct level.
Personally I run the synth if the vehicle doesn't leak or burn oil.
A flat tappet cam will want to have the correct oil as not to ruin it. Break in oil is perfect or add the additive in addition to your oil.

Try Summit or Jegs for the oil. Plan ahead for the oil change since the oil will be shipped ground taking longer to get to you.
 
I use Syn royal purple XPR 10 - 40 , it's a high zinc oil , or so they say good for the flat tappet cam . So far well over 12,000 miles and no trouble . This year have 4,000 miles and have not used any oil , still close to the full mark on the dip stick . It's expensive but I only change it once or twice a year . Also use Mobil 1 or K & N oil filters .
I used regular Dino oil with ZDDP additive for the first 2,000 miles , then switched to synthetic .
 
Does it have a flat tappet cam, or a roller cam?

Flat tappet cam = must use oil with a high zinc content. Royal Purple HPS, Amsoil Z-ROD, Amsoil Premium Protection, and Red Line 15W40 Diesel are good synthetics for this application. I have been using non-synthetic Lucas Hot Rod & Classic Car oil in my flat tappet 340 for years with no problems.

Roller cam = use any good quality oil. Mobil One is a good synthetic and is reasonably priced.
 
I haves purchased quarts and 5 gallon containers of Royal Purple on Amazon. They have other brands as well.
 
69_340_GTS said:
Does it have a flat tappet cam, or a roller cam?

Flat tappet cam = must use oil with a high zinc content. Royal Purple HPS, Amsoil Z-ROD, Amsoil Premium Protection, and Red Line 15W40 Diesel are good synthetics for this application. I have been using non-synthetic Lucas Hot Rod & Classic Car oil in my flat tappet 340 for years with no problems.

Roller cam = use any good quality oil. Mobil One is a good synthetic and is reasonably priced.
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My question is: "Do you have to keep running oil with higher zinc content in it after you break in the engine or not?"

I've seen some claims that you only need the zinc for break-in, but it doesn't make sense to me that you wouldn't still need it after break-in if it was necessary in break-in...
 
Yes you must have Zink ! I lost 3 cams in my motor before I found out about the Zink issue. And yes they were all broke in properly.
 
Jo Diesel said:
Yes you must have Zink ! I lost 3 cams in my motor before I found out about the Zink issue. And yes they were all broke in properly.
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One of several reasons I'll never build an engine without a roller cam.
 
Jo Diesel said:
Yes you must have Zink ! I lost 3 cams in my motor before I found out about the Zink issue. And yes they were all broke in properly.
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That's what I thought. You need to keep the zinc forever...
 
Rotella TP 15w40 on mine.

i put this stuff on my 1973 little Honda CB motorcycle difference is night and day... to the regular stuff.
 
I run Brad Penn 15W40 in my 410 stroker. I'm at the same 500 mile break in point. No issues. I like the "green" stuff ;) ... it's easy to tell if there's a leak
 
I usually don't comment on the oil threads. My thoughts are even with a roller cam you need the zinc/phosphate components in the oil, it still provides a "protective barrier". You still have metal to metal contact between components. Rocker arms to shafts, push rods to rocker, lifters to lifter bore, piston to bore etc. With the increased spring pressures that go along with roller cams there's even more load concentrated on rocker arms , pushrods and side loading of the lifter in the bore. Of course this is my opinion and they are like everything else.
 
Decided to run the royal purple with zinc from jegs.Little expensive but so is everything.Thanks for all the input
 
downsr said:
I believe the cam is a bullet solid mechanical roller.
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I dont mean to be an a$$ but it's kinda important to know what type of cam is in there.
A flat tappet will not last long without the ZDDP. They are married.
The rollers, after break-in dont much care.

ir3333
The full-synthetic oils are far superior to most dino oils. Do the research. The thing about them is they generaly cost between 2 to 4 times as much as dino. But the oil-change interval on new cars that are engineered for it is generally 3 or more times further. So the actual cost out of pocket is relatively little more. And the engine will last so much longer, and make a little more power too!
 
downsr said:
It has a roller camshaft.
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Well then, after break-in you should be able to run any kind of oil you want to. I've been running Mobil One in everything I've owned (except my Dart) for about 25 years and have never seen any type of lubrication related failures.
 
BIG-B-Barracuda said:
Rotella TP 15w40 on mine.

i put this stuff on my 1973 little Honda CB motorcycle difference is night and day... to the regular stuff.
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BIG-B-Barracuda said:
1 gallon Jug of rotella TP = 13.00$ for me.
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And these two guys will get all the benefits without the high cost of having a celebrity name or the word racing associated with it.

The Rotella TP 10/40 is one of the best and highest zinc content oils out there, even though the name isn't flashy.
 
TrailBeast said:
And these two guys will get all the benefits without the high cost of having a celebrity name or the word racing associated with it.

The Rotella TP 10/40 is one of the best and highest zinc content oils out there, even though the name isn't flashy.
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:eek:ops: i'm only one Guy. :pale:
 
I am a Huge Rotella T6 fan. Run it in everything from my riding lawn mower to the stroker in my Dart. Never had one issue. I do add the zddp additive to the flat tappet cars.
 
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