Engine pre run oil pump

[lomchivok]

Can you say "spun main" bearing.

Not spun but some pretty ugly scarring. The thrust bearing was the worst. Only the #5 oil pump main mount cap and block side weren't damaged. The others a bit less than the thrust bearing. Rods didn't look much better, well quite a bit better than the thrust but damaged none the less. I asked to have the mains lined but said it was okay. The crank is the original, I asked for a new one too...didn't get it. I could hear a dull faint thump before rebuild...suspected the crank...said it was good. Now it's getting a new forged piece with Cleavite 77 H's...though people tell me Kings are the best???
Edit; I'm quite surprised at the amount of damage compared to the noise it was making. It was more of a light tick. I thought I wiped my cam but no. It sounded more like the first time when a wrist pin started making noise.

 

[pishta]

I installed an accusump on mine for just that reason. Extra quart in the pan you open the valve and the running oil pressure fills the bottle which creates a pressurized space of trapped air in the bottle. Close the valve and shut off the engine. When restarting just open the valve.

yeah, see post 12.

I run King bearings too. No issues with them, although I think they have a better surface finish than Clevite if that matters.

also post oiling a turbo is way more important than pre oiling. You dont want to shut down a turbo while its almost red hot and have the oil coke up inside.

 

[lomchivok]

I'm going to build my own. Through my work I am able to get a small 12v Liquid Metronics mRoy pump to be mounted in the trunk next to the battery that will pull through the oil level plug in my Kevko deep oil pan then through a remote oil filter. I'll tig in a pickup tube and run stainless lines to and from the pump. I can also get 12v solenoids, relays and timers through Grainger and McMaster Carr to open the solenoid and start the pump then run for a set time when the car door is opened. A relay senses the door opened and latches in to provide power to the timers relay with it's own alternate power supply to keep it operational till the set time has expired. The timer will also provide power to the solenoid and pump. The oil will go from the pump back to a tee at the oil pressure sending unit boss. Sounds a bit complicated but it's really not and offers hands free operation.

 

[nm9stheham]

Is there a check valve in the outlet of the auxiliary pump to prevent flow back? If so, better put it right at the tee so that it will also protect the engine from oil loss if that long outlet line cracks/breaks.

What happens if the check valve sticks open and when the main pump fires up with the engine and puts pressure back into the outlet of the auxiliary pump? Won't the oil from the main pump partially flow back in reverse via the auxiliary pump and back into the pan, rather than into the engine?

The filter check valve is probably not designed for positive pressure backwards; it is just a rubber flap. So make sure the filter check valve and the not-running main pump do all you expect, otherwise the auxiliary pump's output can just flow back into the pan.

 

[lomchivok]

There will be an inline spring loaded check ball at the tee. The solenoid will act as a check valve as well. The liquid metronics pump is rated for 400 degrees F and is designed to pump oil with a heavy duty diaphragm and stroke and speed adjustable. It will pump rated volume against 200 psi head pressure max at 80 gph max speed and stroke. The inlet and outlet of the LMI pump also has check balls. The LMI pump was a throwaway at work with a cracked pump outer housing from a drop. I rescued it from the dumpster and rebuilt it with new factory parts. $150 bucks for parts on an $1100.00 pump.

 

[nm9stheham]

Hmmm.... Looking at this pump, how do you manage the pressure? This looks like a set flow pump, and will raise the pressure way high to deliver the flow. The pressure will be seen back in the filter, and there is no pressure regulation available where you plan to feed. Just adjust the volume by trial and error?

Sounds like you are thinking through a lot of the issues. Not a common priced car solution though!

 

[lomchivok]

"Not a common priced car solution though!"
That's for sure...basically got the pump for free.
Yes the pressure is somewhat constant but the volume is adjustable by the speed and stroke settings. I will need to play with it some to get the pump flow to be just less than pressure bleed off cold. This is a pulse pump and speed and stroke can be adjusted to almost any flow you want up to the rated flow of the pump.

 

[nm9stheham]

Just don't blow off the filter.... (One more thing to fail.)

 

[lomchivok]

We've got several other LMI pumps at the plant in various stages of dis repair.
These things ran 24/365 with very few problems. Most problems were due to to the high vibration environment from the old mechanical separator system they lived in...mounting bracket failure or physical pump mounting base failure.
The new system goes about oil and chemical injection in a different way and doesn't use the LMI type of pump.
There are several that we used in low line pressure applications as low as 25 psi @ 40 gph constant pressure variable flow. I'll see if maybe there is something there to trade for.

I know that what I am doing may seem unnecessary and the way I'm going about it...well...may be crazy to some folk. This stuff is more fun to me than work. I'm the kid who took apart the kitchen radio to see how it worked. Now I'm the Plant Engineer. Doing stuff like this is something I've done all my life. See an issue... find a solution that improves it or makes it go away. Leak free joints is something I have fought for ever until I found Monkey Grip joint compound. Put it together and it will be leak free...forget about getting it back apart though.

 

[nm9stheham]

I know that what I am doing may seem unnecessary and the way I'm going about it...well...may be crazy to some folk. This stuff is more fun to me than work.

I indeed get it.... this motorhead stuff helps relieve the work load tension/boredom.

 

[Duane]

That's what I want to avoid. After sitting for weeks at a time...months over winter, it would be nice to have a permanently installed pump to lube the motor before cranking it over dry.

Canton or moroso 1 quart accumulator is what you want.