engine stand wiring harness

[38 Dodge]

OK here is the deal I made an Engine stand for my 241 Hemi and I just changed out the Distributor with a 318 electronic unit does anyone know of how it is supposed to be wired thru all the differnet pieces from the battery, to the key, to the starter relay, electronic box, coil, and anything that needs to be wired.
If anyone can give a diagram that would be very helpful

 

[sireland67]

This would be the easiest using a gm 4-pin module.
Just hook your hot/ run wire to where the ballest risistor is shown in the diagram.

http://duster318.freeservers.com/tech/hei.html

 

[67Dart273]

Depends on how complicated you want to get. You have a fuel pump. or electric gauges to hook up?

Or just igntition/ starter?

What ignition system you have, stock Mopar ECU? Do you know if it's late enough that it has 2 terminal ballast resistor, or older 4 terminal resistor, Or is it some aftermarket igntion?

You happen to have a spare Mopar ignition switch laying around?

 

[38 Dodge]

no fuel pump, no gauges- I just need the ignition / starter.
I have both a wiring system with a 2 and a 4 terminal resistor andI have one each of the module boxes. I have all the items from the cars (junk yard pull),to include the firewall harness engine bay, a ignition switch ( 1962 Valiant spare I have lay around).

 

[67Dart273]

OK, the easiest way is just wire it up "sort of like the factory." This is because on most cars, the ballast resistor bypass circuit is done (Ford, GM, etc) by the starter solenoid. On Mopars it's done right in the ignition switch

Here's the deal on Mopar ECU boxes.

The older so called "5 pin" boxes MUST use a 4 pin ballast

The newer so called "4 pin" boxes CAN use EITHER a 2 or 4 pin ballast

If you wire the stand for a 4 pin resistor, you are all set for either box

You can NOT tell by looking at the box. Many 4 pin boxes still have the 5th pin. You must use a meter to tell if the 5th pin is hooked to anything, but again, using a 4 pin resistor, "you don't care." Plug it in and "go."

It is important to see that the 4 pin resistor is NOT the same on both halves. Note in the wiring diagram the upside down "U" shape on one end. This identifies "which way" it lies, so hook up just like the drawing



5 pin ECU:

4 pin ECU:

OK, so hook up your ignition as far as the ignition diagrams go. Again, if you use the 5 pin diagram/ 4 pin ballast, it will work with any ECU that you plug in.

On the diagram below, tie the wire labled "existing wire" on the ignition diagram above, and run the brown bypass directly to coil positive post.

If you have trouble with your switch, post a photo of the rear of the switch. The drawing is how my 67 switch is laid out

 

[38 Dodge]

Thanks for the help i have been installing everything on a panel now I will start wiring it up with your drawings.
Thanks again
Ron

 

[67Dart273]

Great. Be sure and post back if any more problems.

 

[38 Dodge]

I will do actually When I get it all wired up I'm going to try and post a video of the ole hemi starting up

 

[38 Dodge]

Here is the latest I have everything hooked up, but the spark at the plugs is weak at best. I.m not sure where to go from here dow do I check the electronic componets to make sure they are all in working order correctly.
Any help would be great.

 

[67Dart273]

I assume you mean weak when cranking? I'd guess you are not getting "igniton bypass" during start.

Measure your coil+ voltage during cranking, and compare to battery voltage during cranking. Your battery should be at least 10 and better 10.5 or better during crank, and the coil+ should see close to the same.

 

[Mad Dart]

Put a Charger on the Battery.

 

[memike]

Is everything grounded good to your stand and engine ? air gap set, and the coil is good and not hooked up backward (sorry, I just had to ask, did this one time) Check you distributor cap for scales and build up in side on each pick up the rotor hits.
The coil could be used up.

 

[38 Dodge]

I have a fully charged battery before I started, everything is grounded, I will check the voltage during cranking. I do know that with my switch on and I have 11 volts through out the system execept fo the distributor wires only have 7volts this is checked with just the switch on.

 

[67Dart273]

That's normal, in "run" going through the coil resistor. I understood you are using a Mopar IGN switch. You should have a separate wire from the terminal in the diagram marked as "brown bypass" runs right to the + side of the coil. If the rear of your switch looks different or is not marked, post a photo.

So that is what puts battery volt. on the coil during crank.