Extreme budget rebuild

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weaverjsnw

weaverjsnw

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I recently pulled the motor and tranny out of my 64 dart because of a knocking noise. Before doing that I ruled out every other possibility including the flex plate bolts. Turned out the engine wasn't the problem. The torque converter shaft is cracked. Anyone know if it can be repaired? Or where to get a replacement?

So since I already had the engine out decided to investigate. I've never rebuilt an engine but wanted to. I knew this one probably needed it because after changing the oil several times it would be black in just a few days. After taking it apart, cleaning, and measuring I found that it really was in pretty good condition. The rod and main bearings were scored a little. The camshaft had some wear and the lifters were not flat. I cannot afford a machine shop to do the cleaning so I am doing the best I can with degreaser and wire brushes. Only cleaning off the build up inside, outside and oil passages. So I wanted to do a full rebuild but due to my situation and needing to get my car back on the road asap decided it wasn't possible.

After a lot of searching I found the perfect solution. I bought new main and rod bearings, piston rings, stock camshaft with lifters and a full gasket kit from Northern Auto for just over $300 including shipping!!! Should have it all in the next day or two. Need to address the torque converter then slap it all back in place. Should be good to go!! Here are some pics...
 

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Big fan of these builds. No need for a machine shop until something comes up.


Clean it up, inspect everything, clean the carbon off, and lap your valves with compound, replace your valve springs. Check your cylinders for serious wear, hone them with a ball, drill and wd-40. Check your ring gap, and make sure the rings are facing the right direction and installed in order. Plasti-gauge your bearings, check end play, torque to spec with a dial type torque wrench. Goo your oil pan cork-to-rubber transitions with #2 sealant, RTV around the timing set, and water pump coolant holes both sides..


More has been done with less.
 
The plasti gage said I was .003 on the mains and .002 on the rods. They didn't have the .001 oversize so I went with standard. I'll check again when I get them in. Should I use a heavier oil?
 
weaverjsnw said:
The plasti gage said I was .003 on the mains and .002 on the rods. They didn't have the .001 oversize so I went with standard. I'll check again when I get them in. Should I use a heavier oil?
Click to expand...

You should be OK, use 10-30. Oil pressure will dictate heavier oil, 10lbs for every 1000rpm seems to be the consensus.

Prime it with a paint paddle, they are less than $10, and you can get them anywhere, 5/16" hex IIRC.

Last thing: REPLACE OIL PUMP!
 
Yep,what Poison said.....As for a torque converter,get a reman one from a real transmission shop,not a O Reilly's/Autozone/ average unknown retailer. Take your old one in with you,let them figure it out. May cost some more,worth every penny. Look for a ATRA dealer,you might need a front pump bushing, if chewed up.
 
^Yup, gopnh.com has great prices and put out quality work as well. Friend just got a hi-stall for less than $200 to his door.
 
For an extra $150 could have gotten the oil pump and pistons. Could only come up with the $300. Pump seems ok but I should anyway. Just want to get it back together before the rain hits. Also I'm in an alley in a not so good neighborhood. Know where I can find a cheap one?
 
Get on the horn and call NOW.... Cutoff for all west coast chains are 5:00 p.m. P.S.T. Call now,you might get lucky. Done parts 23 years,call now!
 
O-o-o-orieelllllyyy. (O-really?) Any decent parts house should carry one or have one within 24hrs. If you can swing the pistons, that would be cool. Thanks for sharing, it will scream. You will be proud.
 
No more funds at the moment. Had to borrow the $300 for the engine. Was hoping to take the converter to a machine shop to swap the hub for less than $100. Sounds like I'm gonna need another $300 for the converter and oil pump.
 
weaverjsnw said:
No more funds at the moment. Had to borrow the $300 for the engine. Was hoping to take the converter to a machine shop to swap the hub for less than $100. Sounds like I'm gonna need another $300 for the converter and oil pump.
Click to expand...

Find a different converter, (J.M.O)... Seen a welded snout repair, didn't end well. A good remain converter will be a better deal dollar wise,than a machine shop repair.
 
It may be a blessing, clean some more.
You can never get an old engine too clean, take you time, follow the shop manual.
Your engine should be go for alot more miles.
 
I saw some torque converters on ebay for $89 + sh. they were for different years though. I've seen the oil pumps for $79 there also. Well I'll just have to do whatever it takes, it has gotten me this far...
 
Before you order your TC, what is the serial on the drivers side pain rail of your transmission?

numbers.jpg


Don't buy a cheap converter. GOPNH!!
 
I do have more cleaning to do. I feel that is first priority. Don't want to leave any gunk to destroy all my efforts. I have everything tarped and so far no one has messed with anything. Better do it right the first time so will definitely be getting the oil pump when possible then a torque converter. In the meantime I can deal with my rust issues....Need to stop it before it gets worse!!!
 

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[ame]http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/transguide.pdf[/ame]

Thumb through that list, and order accordingly.
 
Is there another number on the side? Further toward the engine 1"? Earliest numbers are 246xxxx.

Might just be easiest to 'right click' 'save as' on that link. PDF reader like adobe acrobat opens em' up.
 
Just put the engine back together. It looks good.
 
Whomever you order from, specify that it's a 65ish model. Double check those numbers, it's gotta be right. Look down the torque converter hole and count the splines to verify.


"In 1968 input shafts were elarged from 3/4" to 7/8" and spline count was changed from 18 to 24. Torque converters were re-splined to match. Pilot hubs on converter noses grew from 1.55" diameter used since 1960 to 1.88" used in 727's. Pilot flanges on crankshaft flanges of slant 6's and 273 and 318 LA cranks were enlarged to 1.88" to accept the larger pilot hub."


http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/archive/index.php/t-8360.html
 
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