first time down the track advise?

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gotcha
I wonder how productive that is, because wont all the crud just get onto the sock again ?
kind of like backflushing a transmission
 
I just put a little air filter on the tube instead of routing lines to the air filter and all that just to keep crud out of it....
20141114_171200-1.jpg
 
so...i MAY be able to hit the track again this friday
(not set in stone yet, but i sure hope so)

i have since installed a evap can in the car, so no more worries about tank vents, and replaced the fuel pump with a high volume unit (still mechanical though)

i also swapped out to tired N50s for a set of nitto 555R 275/65-15s

now, im still running an open rear end, so do i still avoid the burn out box?
(wouldnt want one tire to get warm and grippy and steer me into a wall)

im hoping to get some better times this time around, i feel like i should be able to break into the 12s
 
Stay out of the water box. do two short burnouts.
Remember the tire with the least traction, is the one that will spin. locking up both wheels will give you MORE the 50% better traction. aka you really need to get that open diff problem fixed.
 
diymirage said:
so...i MAY be able to hit the track again this friday
(not set in stone yet, but i sure hope so)

i have since installed a evap can in the car, so no more worries about tank vents, and replaced the fuel pump with a high volume unit (still mechanical though)

i also swapped out to tired N50s for a set of nitto 555R 275/65-15s

now, im still running an open rear end, so do i still avoid the burn out box?
(wouldnt want one tire to get warm and grippy and steer me into a wall)

im hoping to get some better times this time around, i feel like i should be able to break into the 12s
Click to expand...
A open differential is definitely hurting you, you need to fix that.
 
I got a cone style sure grip in the garage, but I don't know how to install it

Met one of the new neighbours the other day (69 dart) who said he would get me in touch with one of his buddies, who can set it up for me, but we have to gotten there yet
 
Leave the line at about 1500rpm and ROLL into the throttle. It will feel slow and like it is taking forever to get going but is actually way quicker than doing a "one wheel peel" to the 1/8 mile.
 
Mopar-Man said:
Leave the line at about 1500rpm and ROLL into the throttle. It will feel slow and like it is taking forever to get going but is actually way quicker than doing a "one wheel peel" to the 1/8 mile.
Click to expand...
i will definitly try this
i should be able to make a few passes, so as long as i can remember when i did what, it should be good
 
diymirage said:
I got a cone style sure grip in the garage, but I don't know how to install it

Met one of the new neighbours the other day (69 dart) who said he would get me in touch with one of his buddies, who can set it up for me, but we have to gotten there yet
Click to expand...

It's really not that hard if you're just replacing the differential. Measure your current backlash, install sure-grip differential, set backlash the same as before, install, and go do two-sided burnouts.
 
j par said:
Well when is the next t&t, when are we going to see pictures and time slips ? ?
Click to expand...


day late and a dollar short...here is some footage from last night

im still outrunning my fuel delivery it looks like
im also convinced these nitto 555 do not hook anywhere near as good as my old N50s did (which may be because im running an open rear end, and go around the burnout box)





and this one i posted because, well, that silly dinky toy caught me by surprise, it ended up clocking 10.3536 at 139.06 MPH




all said and done, my best time was 15.725 at 75.25
my highest clocked speed was 78.04 (E.T. 15.9907)


(ill add all the other info later)

for now the plan is to replace the sending unit, and the fuel lines
and if that doesnt work ill replace the mechanical fuel pump with and electrical on
(just dont tell @RustyRatRod )
 
My brothers 410 ran an 11.89 @114 with a stock fuel pump, 5/16 lines and an 850 demon, no fuel starvation whatsoever.
 
thesiren74 said:
Sure something is not pinching when the engine is torquing and reducing flow?
Click to expand...
couldnt think of what could possibly pinch
the from the tank to the pump run in the stock position
from the pump to the regulator there is plenty of slack, and from the regulator to the carb looks good too

im starting to wonder, if perhaps the stock fuel line is pinched somewhere

there is a small rubber line running from the pickup to the steel stock line
maybe that one is collapsing under the pull from the pump?
 
I agree replace that hose.
also remove your gas cap and see what happens.
It's acting just like my car when i fix a cracked vent hose that was full of bugs........created a vaccum in the fuel tank.......ran out of fuel.
One quick stomp down the road will answer that question.
Also check your float bowls, if there to low it will do the same thing to you!
 
You notest or at least i noticed that it ran out of fuel at the starting line and then cam back alive.
You have a restriction in your fuel line somewhere.
A new fuel pump is not going to fix this problem.
 
thanks guys

i have a new 3/8th fuel line on order, as well as a fuel sending unit with 3/8th output and 1/4 return
i intend to run this new line alongside the old one, and use the old one as a return line

any thoughts on what hose to use to connect the new fuel line to the pick up?
any type of line that holds up to vacuum well?
 
I would get under there and follow that fuel line from tank to carb. It could be as simple as a "road rock", bounced and hit you fuel line, causing it to get partially crushed.
It's possible.
My money is a rubber hose that collapsed or had a tear in the inner lining causing a flapper valve aka one way valve restricting the flow. or air can't get back into the tank as fast as the fuel is being pulled out of it.
Take that gas cap off and take it for a stomp, aka full throttle blast!
One other possibility could be that the fuel is boiling(vapor lock) I had a clamp come loose on my fuel line next to my header. It cause the fuel line to get vary close to my headers. spent a lot of time trying to fix my problem before i found that problem.
 
Ok one more thought:D if your sending unit is not accurate and your all most out of gas.............when you launch the car, fuel my run away from pick-up, causing it to stall out.
IF this was the case, i think it would quit completely and then be hard to start!

Do you drive to the track or trailer it there???
 
Cudafever said:
Ok one more thought:D if your sending unit is not accurate and your all most out of gas.............when you launch the car, fuel my run away from pick-up, causing it to stall out.
IF this was the case, i think it would quit completely and then be hard to start!

Do you drive to the track or trailer it there???
Click to expand...
I would not go to the track in anything w/ out 2 wheels pulling !
 
i will get under there and have a look at the steel lines
the rubber is a bit harder to investigate, but ill see anyway

i know i rebuild the engine part of the fuel system last year, but cant remember what i did between the line and the pump...ill see

Cudafever said:
Ok one more thought:D if your sending unit is not accurate and your all most out of gas.............when you launch the car, fuel my run away from pick-up, causing it to stall out.
IF this was the case, i think it would quit completely and then be hard to start!

Do you drive to the track or trailer it there???
Click to expand...

funny, while at the track, i asked the guy who rebuild my transmission what his thoughts where and he said the same thing
only problem is, i DID drive the car to the track (just under an hour from my house) but i stopped in halfway and filled her up
so even if the gauge is off (which i think it is, because when im on E i can only add 10 gallons) i still know the tank was well over half way full




famous bob said:
I would not go to the track in anything w/ out 2 wheels pulling !
Click to expand...

it definitely adds an extra dimension to it, i think i had to ease into it untill 50MPH or so, and even then it would spin

luckily i ran into some issues with the wifes acadia so im having that one towed to a buddies shop now
which is just the excuse i needed to get the duster out there when the acadia is done, so i can swap them and have him install that sure grip and longer studs
 
Went back and re read your thread.
#1 make double sure that your fuel level is in the middle of the sight glass in both the primary and secondary bowls.
#2 when the sock in the tank was talked about. You were under the impression that compressed air was used to clean the sock. NO, compressed air is to blow the sock clean off the suction tube on sending unit.
#3 don't assume ANYTHING! It will be the thing that it wrong, and you will chase you tail trying to find it(ask me how i know this)
#4 go buy a lone piece of rubber fuel line, (you can use this to replace all the rubber lines in the system after words) Start eng and verify that the fuel bowls are full of fuel. (shut eng off) disconnect the rubber hose from the fuel pump(the one going to the carb) and install your new rubber fuel line into a container. run the fuel line under the car and into a container out next to your wheel.(having a fire extinguisher on hand is always a good idea.)

#5 remove your gas cap and take it for a hard drive.
#6 replace your fuel filter and blow threw the old filter, to see if it is plugged

Now do the easiest first #3!!!!! #1, #5, #6, #2, #4

If the sock, in the fuel tank, folds over itself under acceleration and pinched of the fuel..........it would ack kind of like your video. but would drive all day long at freeway speeds
 
Cudafever said:
#1 make double sure that your fuel level is in the middle of the sight glass in both the primary and secondary bowls.
Click to expand...

did this, several times
played with the levels a little bit, running them a hair higher then it was at first, but that made no differences

Cudafever said:
#2 when the sock in the tank was talked about. You were under the impression that compressed air was used to clean the sock. NO, compressed air is to blow the sock clean off the suction tube on sending unit.
Click to expand...

gotcha, i guess i did this them, and IF it blew off it is floating around in the tank somewhere
i could see it getting sucked into the pickup and restricting fuel flow

on the bright side, i got a larger pickup on order, so well see when im ready to swap that on where the sock is
would you suggest leaving the sock off allogether?

Cudafever said:
#5 remove your gas cap and take it for a hard drive.
Click to expand...

the problem here is, i dont know of a stretch of road empty, and long enough where i feel safe doing this type of "test"
under normal acceleration, i have no issues, it is only at the 1/4 mile drag


Cudafever said:
#4 go buy a lone piece of rubber fuel line, (you can use this to replace all the rubber lines in the system after words) Start eng and verify that the fuel bowls are full of fuel. (shut eng off) disconnect the rubber hose from the fuel pump(the one going to the carb) and install your new rubber fuel line into a container. run the fuel line under the car and into a container out next to your wheel.(having a fire extinguisher on hand is always a good idea.)
Click to expand...

this is to verify the pump is pushing plenty of fuel, correct?

obviously a trickle will be too little, but how can i tell when it is "enough" ?

the lines going from the pump to the filter, regulator and carb are all braided AN-6 lines, and less then a year old


Cudafever said:
#6 replace your fuel filter and blow threw the old filter, to see if it is plugged
Click to expand...

im running a billet rebuildable filter
i will tear it apart, check for junk and report back
 
diymirage said:
did this, several times
played with the levels a little bit, running them a hair higher then it was at first, but that made no differences
Probably not the problem unless the float can not travel to the bottom of the bowl to get a speedy fill of the bowl

gotcha, i guess i did this them, and IF it blew off it is floating around in the tank somewhere
i could see it getting sucked into the pickup and restricting fuel flow.
If it comes out clean and not damage then i would reinstall it on the new sending unit........My guess is that it has been removed long ago.

on the bright side, i got a larger pickup on order, so well see when im ready to swap that on where the sock is
would you suggest leaving the sock off allogether?
My opinion is, Yes. If and or when you go electric fuel pump you will need a better fuel filter then that anyways(it is just a screen)



the problem here is, i dont know of a stretch of road empty, and long enough where i feel safe doing this type of "test"
under normal acceleration, i have no issues, it is only at the 1/4 mile drag
My thought would be to start really slow on a freeway on ramp, and nail it!!!!!




this is to verify the pump is pushing plenty of fuel, correct?
yes
obviously a trickle will be too little, but how can i tell when it is "enough" ?
If it start to flow out decent and then goes to a trickle, then you know there is something that is trying to block fuel when the demand goes up! In you suction side of the line.

the lines going from the pump to the filter, regulator and carb are all braided AN-6 lines, and less then a year old.


i'm running a billet rebuildable filter
i will tear it apart, check for junk and report back
Click to expand...
Open up quote to get my comments.
 
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