HEI dist

-
340wedge1971

340wedge1971

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2010
Messages
1,367
Reaction score
25
Location
Marblehead Ohio
Anyone running a HEI GM style dist on their mopar? They have a good look(billet aluminum),pretty cheap($45-$50),and they claim to be an upgrade from factory electronic ignition(better spark,fender mounted module and ballast resist not needed,etc.)...i would love to hear your pros/cons?Thanks
 

Attachments

  • $(KGrHqYOKpEE6(HD9vvOBOocF,HN9!~~60_58.jpg
    59.5 KB · Views: 255
anyone use these? just found them on ebay too.. it sounds like you dont need that ignition module and simply hook this into your 12v hot ignition wires.. (yea.. right simply)

would be nice to get rid of all that wiring but how well do they work? what about finding parts? and theres no name brand...
 
did ya think you were going to get a MSD ready to run distributor for 50 bucks...LOL

alot of people have used those pro comp distributors and have good luck with them...they use a GM HEI module so a replacement is available at any 7-11 store in the USA...
 
Many people use them and report good results. I bought one from skipwhite on ebay for ~$45 but haven't run it yet. Some vendors charge ~2x for the same part. The pickup inside looks nice, w/ multiple fingers. Best to use an E-core coil, $20 for a pretty one from skipwhite or use a junkyard Magnum coil or GM external coil. With E-core you get more spark and can lose your ballast. For even more spark, the the "MSD Stacker" can be wired in parallel. I got a new one cheap off ebay.
 
Thanks,AAR. I ask because I have ran into even main brand name stuff (Accel),that uses izuzu pick up coilz. If I can't find a part on Mainstreet, U.S.A., I won't use it.
 
I run a ProComp on my Signet complete with top coil and outside of a little machine work on the stem during the installation, I haven't had a problem since I installed it six months ago and I drive it daily.. Actually I am happy that I don't have a ton of wires going every which way around the engine
 
This is what I bought. Must of had bad luck because it never worked right, right from the start. Called several times and don't feel that I got the help I needed. Just a lot of "hons" and what not. I was just outside in the garage and was looking it over again and noticed that the screws that hold the vacuum advance on had the heads mangled. It seems someone else tried to remove it or thats the way it came from the dealer. I will not speak for anyone else, but personally I will NOT buy anything else from that place again. I'm supposed to get another control module from them, was supposed to of been mailed on Wednesday the 4th of April, 2012. I'll give them until this coming Wednesday or maybe Friday before I put my feedback into Ebay. Look at the link here to see it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&vxp=mtr&item=350555151644

Ok, update. I received two new modules from them today. Seems that it was sent to the wrong address. I got home and put the whole thing back together and in the car. Started it up and same thing. Would run for about a minute then die. Well, I bypassed the ballast resistor and it works fine, no problem. Seems I needed a hot wire that don't go through the resistor. I had bought another resistor way back when I first got the car, and I tried that one with the same results. With the new distributor, it still goes through the resistor. When I get more time, I will find a way to get a keyed hot to go to the coil. So maybe the first module is ok then?
 
I Bought one from them too it works great !!!!! but i did get a bad one first and they shipped a new one the only things i didn't like was that the point that go's in the cam gear was too long had to grind 3/8 off so the distributor would seat . also had to relocate the position of that gear as the rotor point didn't line up with the factory style . but after all its a great upgrade & loose all that extra wiring under the hood .good luck !
 
Louie70Dart said:
With the new distributor, it still goes through the resistor. When I get more time, I will find a way to get a keyed hot to go to the coil. So maybe the first module is ok then? [/COLOR]
Click to expand...

Same guy I bought mine from. He gives good info in the ebay listing. It clearly says to get rid of your ballast resistor. It also works best with an E-core type coil. Your factory coil will likely over-heat if you try to use that. If you must have a round-can type coil, get an MSD Blaster or such.

The simplest way to bypass your ballast is to use a double-spade connector to connect the 2 terminals together (without the ballast). They are a bit hard to find, so you might have to crimp 2 male spades to a wire. If so, use 12 or 14 awg wire. Cover with heat shrink so no metal can short.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top