Watch the clocking - red
And length - green
And length - green
Help - Adjusting ‘67 904 console floor shifter
- Thread starter Bobacuda
- Start date
-
Which you might be able to achieve by drilling a hole
This is a factory console, 904 trans, V8 car. The original trans is somewhere in a New Mexico boneyard. After seeing the torque shaft with the bend, that was when I acquired new shifter mechanisms.
As soon as time permits, I will check it all out as per Dana67Dart and I will try to determine if a different shifter arm is required.
Once again, whenever I get this damn thing figured out, I’ll post the cure.
Thanks to all. I’ll go back to contemplating rocket science now.
As soon as time permits, I will check it all out as per Dana67Dart and I will try to determine if a different shifter arm is required.
Once again, whenever I get this damn thing figured out, I’ll post the cure.
Thanks to all. I’ll go back to contemplating rocket science now.
You can tell I was a bit frustrated!
The only reason I can see lifting the console up is to verify that the upper level is attached properly. You might be able to see it with a borascope.
Inertia
Well-Known Member
I think you'll find they're hardened steel, but cut, - overlap, temporarily use vicegrips to help determine nec length, weld , has worked .
Inertia
Well-Known Member
If you have headers, some require slightly shortening the lower rear mount that Dana has marked "orange B" in first pix. post 23.
Just for clearance cuz of header .
Just for clearance cuz of header .
Spent some time battling the Barracuda today. As best as I could measure, the torque shaft lever has 3” of travel between 1 & P. The trans shift lever has 2 1/8” travel between 1 & P. All measurements would have been more accurate and easier if the trans was not installed.
The lever (A) on the torque shaft is about 3 1/2” from shaft to center of hole. The best measurement I got for the trans selector lever (B) is about 2 1/4” shaft to center of hole. Therefore the trans selector lever is about 1” shorter than the torque shaft lever.
The trans shift select lever looks like the 2 on the right in the photo, but no length is given.
Shouldn’t the levers be about the same length?
Do you know the lever lengths of the the levers in the photo?
I’m thinking my shift lever is too short (story of my life).
Inertia
Well-Known Member
Have you got the shifter button screwed on to the correct position to allow full travel of the actual shifter lever.
See the gates and button release lever at bottom of shifter.
If the button is screwed too far down, or not enuff, you may not be getting full shifter travel, ? ?
I know you say your getting 1 & P, but are you ?
See the gates and button release lever at bottom of shifter.
If the button is screwed too far down, or not enuff, you may not be getting full shifter travel, ? ?
I know you say your getting 1 & P, but are you ?
Last edited:
It's starting to look that way.
You could mock up an extension for the shorter lever. Use a hose clamp to hold it on to the lever.
Give it a test.
Put another 6 hrs trying to get the console automatic shifter and the 904 trans to work in harmony. Takes time doing it all by myself.
Got a tape measure with a more flexible tape so I could try to get better measurements. I disconnected the shifter linkage and measured distance between the linkages, hole to hole. I’m certain that I made some minor measurement errors.
Distance between the holes was a consistent 9.25”, throughout all gears. I measured from the trans X-member to the lever holes - maintained the 9.25” separation.
Based on all of this, I have concluded the levers are spaced right and the shift rod should adjust it. So, I put the trans in N (turned over engine to make sure), then put the shifter in N and attached the shifter rod.
Put the shifter in P, did not shift into P, would not turn over. Had to go to N to get R and close to D to get it to turn over.
Since that failed, I tried setting it up in P and later in 1. No luck.
I am pulling the console tomorrow and double checking it all up there, then work my way down again.
Any 904 experts here? Can it be something in the rebuilt trans causing me fits?
Dana67Dart… this may not be rocket science, but I’m starting to believe it’s quantum physics.
Thanks.
Got a tape measure with a more flexible tape so I could try to get better measurements. I disconnected the shifter linkage and measured distance between the linkages, hole to hole. I’m certain that I made some minor measurement errors.
Distance between the holes was a consistent 9.25”, throughout all gears. I measured from the trans X-member to the lever holes - maintained the 9.25” separation.
Based on all of this, I have concluded the levers are spaced right and the shift rod should adjust it. So, I put the trans in N (turned over engine to make sure), then put the shifter in N and attached the shifter rod.
Put the shifter in P, did not shift into P, would not turn over. Had to go to N to get R and close to D to get it to turn over.
Since that failed, I tried setting it up in P and later in 1. No luck.
I am pulling the console tomorrow and double checking it all up there, then work my way down again.
Any 904 experts here? Can it be something in the rebuilt trans causing me fits?
Dana67Dart… this may not be rocket science, but I’m starting to believe it’s quantum physics.
Thanks.
I'm confused... (Hard to believe right!)
Are you saying is the measurement of the shifter lever to a fixed point subtracted from the measurement of the trans lever to the same fixed point is 9.25 in all gear positions?
Then the levers would seem to be correct and I can't come up with a reason the trans and selector don't agree
How many shift positions does the trans have. Is it possibly an od trans?
How long is the shift rod that goes between the shifter lever and the trans lever?
This is the levers sold by classic as 66 to 69 A Body automatic floor shifter.
Does it look like the parts you have?
I'm beginning to worry about when I mate my 79 998 to my 67 floor shifter.Dana67Dart… this may not be rocket science, but I’m starting to believe it’s quantum physics.
Because I'm FOR SURE no rocket scientist
Inertia
Well-Known Member
I've run into similar when replacing 904s with 727, I just took the lever off the 904 that came out ,. . . ? ?
The current setup is the one sold by Classic Industries as a repop-stock replacement.
See the shifter rod circled in red. The other rod goes on the top end. It moves the torque shaft when you move the lever. I am using the original one.
See the shifter rod circled in red. The other rod goes on the top end. It moves the torque shaft when you move the lever. I am using the original one.
Pics of your actual setup. There may be something that someone spots.
I found this photo of my car before disassembly
From the look of the upper level on the shaft it must be in low gear. The upper rod can't move much more.
It also appears to me keyed on the shaft
On the aftermarket kit is it also keyed?
From the look of the upper level on the shaft it must be in low gear. The upper rod can't move much more.
It also appears to me keyed on the shaft
On the aftermarket kit is it also keyed?
Is it possible that the transmission you put in is a 904 but has a 727 valve body and park rod? The rods are different lengths, and won’t be able to adjust park position and get all the gears
The Volare trans was in the non-running car when I got it. I had that trans rebuilt by Jasper - I have no idea what’s in it.
The bent torque shaft is keyed, I don’t remember if the repop is. On my list to check.
I’m going to go search through some files of photos right now.
The bent torque shaft is keyed, I don’t remember if the repop is. On my list to check.
I’m going to go search through some files of photos right now.
Last edited:
Cuda Al
Well-Known Member
Fix the bent torque shaft (make sure it is the correct one, compare to a known correct one), doublecheck the transmission lever is correct and everything else should fall in place.
Trying to work off measurements is not the way to go unless you have known numbers to work from. With the multiple moving parts they may not be what you think they should be.
I doubt the transmission is different in the placement of the shift input shaft but I might want to doublecheck it as well.
Alan
Trying to work off measurements is not the way to go unless you have known numbers to work from. With the multiple moving parts they may not be what you think they should be.
I doubt the transmission is different in the placement of the shift input shaft but I might want to doublecheck it as well.
Alan
Please post some pics of the lever on the trans and the torque shaft bracket bolted to the trans tail shaft. Thanks. Kim
Inertia
Well-Known Member
The bottom support is often shortened for header clearance and doesn't affect shift pattern in my experiences.
It's been asked repeatedly for actual pics, not promotional pics for Norm. I could climb under mine and get pics but why should I.....brutal
Inertia
Well-Known Member
I don't think you are getting the complete travel cuz the shifter button won't let the shift lever move all the way into the "P" position, as I mentioned earlier.
In the description above, it seems you don't get to P in forward position, your description describes starting the shifter gates in "R", and all positions after don't get to 1
Unscrew the shifter button a few turns, try forward travel WITH BUTTON PRESSED , then unscrew a few more, check travel WITH BUTTON PRESSED .
You should end up getting more forward movement, with a click/lock into "P" you weren't getting before.
That is Park.
That's all I got .
EDITED !
Last edited:
-
