Help ! Can I remove the trans, but not the converter ?

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garyfish340

garyfish340

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I'm in the midst of pulling the drive train from my Barracuda, and installing it in my Duster, and I kind of in a rush. It's a 6.1/727 combo. I have the engine, and trans out, and sitting on a pallet right now. I figure it would be easiest to do transmission maintenance now that it's available. Can I just unbolt the bell housing, and slide the transmission backward. ( inspection plate, and starter are off.) The last time I tried this on a slant 6 engine, it gave me a hell of a fight with the input shaft. I had to wiggle the trans back, and forth, and was afraid I'd break the damn thing.
Any short cuts would be appreciated.:D
 
Bad idea. If you get it on and off it will be a miracle if you dint damage the front seal or pump bushing.Also getting the convertor totally seated may be a nightmare. Just take 4 more bolts off. Good luck.
 
You CAN,but it's a huge pain in the *** and a bigger 1 when reinstalling the trans. I always pull them as a unit or with the engine
 
Sedanman said:
You CAN,but it's a huge pain in the *** and a bigger 1 when reinstalling the trans. I always pull them as a unit or with the engine
Click to expand...

PLEASE do not do this. Very easy to damage the front pump at the very least.

It is SO EASY to pull the trans properly I see no reason to do otherwise
 
I am already replacing the pump seal, and every other seal, also checking the tail shaft bearing, and bushing, so I'm not worrying about that. The thing I don't understand is this. I removed the 5 or 6 bell housing bolts today, and it just slide right back without a fight. Super easy.
Last week I did the same to a slant 6/904. I had to pry it apart some. ( not going ) Than I removed the TQ bolts, ( going, but not easy ) It was like grabbing a gator by the tail, and wrestling it to get the shaft to slide back. I'm not sure I care what the difference is, but it went smooth. It's a good thing I didn't give it a good yank, cause I was expecting a fight, and probably would have went flying backwards. Thanks everyone.
 
The SEALS are NOT what you are worried about!!!!!!! It's damage to the front pump and the mating part of the converter, but mostly the front pump components.

I do NOT understand what the problem is

You remove the starter and dust cover

You remove 4 whole converter bolts, and use whatever means to tie/ safety the converter from falling out.

Remove bell bolts and the damn thing comes right off and the BONUS is, no fluid leakage.
 
Let him do it his way. He will destroy a perfectly good transmission and converter and learn a valuable lesson.
 
Really? You are in too much of a hurry to remove 4 bolts? Please tell me when you re install it that you will not use the bell housing bolts to suck it up into position.....guaranteed to break the two drive ears of the transmission pump if you do.....
 
Stand the motor on the front pulley when re-installing. Set the trans on the motor tail up. If it doesn't go on all the way. Give it a couple of good hits with a sledge hammer on the rear of the trans until seated. This is quick and effective.

I use this method on everything. I have three drawers in my tool box. Hammers, Prybars, and Vise-grips. My theory is why hinder the process with Ratchets and wrenches.
 
Take a punch and mark the flywheel and torque converter.Remove the 4 bolts and do it the proper way.Doing it this way,it will go back together with ease without damaging.
 
When you crack the neck in the converter you wont know it until you're driving. Then something feels like small hammers banging the floor pan under your feet.
Then you'll get to do it all over again and spend hundreds more.
 
See the notches cut into the Torque Converter? They have to match up with the notches inside the front of the transmission. If they do not match up it can be pulled together and there is where you ruin the pump. It is far easier to put the converter on the transmission and spin the converter until it kinda pops/drops in place then bolt it and transmission to the engine. It's all about the feel! Feel the pop/drop!
 
Hey if it jams force it if it breaks you needed a new on any way GOOD F LUCK on this it's not a clutch
 
I think some of you are under the impression that I did this with the motor and trans in the car, it's on a pallet. I jacked it off the pallet engine/trans, and than slide a piece of linoleum counter top, slightly oiled like a cookie pan. I set it back down on the 3/4 inch counter top, with a jack stand under each engine mount bracket. I made a piece of wood, just tall enough for the flex plate, and t.c.. Now I have it set down where the engines oil pan is not bearing the weight, and the trans pan is level with the engine pan. I unbolted the trans, and it slide off like silk. No hang ups at all. Maybe it's the fact that with a 6.1 uses a plate between the engine, and trans, and maybe this is not advisable for any other mopar engine. I didn't feel a click, a scrape nothing, smooth as ice.
Now it's off to the rodeo to be resealed, and checked for issues. So I'll write this : WARNING THIS IS NOT ADVISABLE TO DO !!!!
 

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I have no intention of re-installing things this way. Saturday I'll install the engine less converter. Than next week the transmission will be finished, and back here. I'll install the 727 from underneath with the converter on the trans. Remove the plugs, spin the crank, and bolt the converter.
 
Hey A.D.D,,,What I dont understand is when someone asks for advice and everyone gives him good advice..Not to pull them seperate keep them together..Then you argue the point...In plain english IF YOU WANT TO BE AN *** DO IT YOUR WAY..But dont come crying when it fails and you have to replace the front pump because you broke the ears off...And the seal leaks...
 
the time you spend on this thread you could have done it the right way; hope the shop tells you that it requires a new front pump! doing what you done is just plain lazy
 
Strange how some people ask for advice from members then ignore every word. Why ask if you don't want to do things the right way? JMO.
 
I've HAD to pull the trans without converter becuz the motors were seized, and I couldn't get at the flex plate bolts..

Like the OP,, I was very careful,, and when the trans and converters were again mated,, they worked fine..

I think many, assumed he was gonna try and install it the same way..

hope it helps..
 
This is one of the reasons I'm not a big fan of pulling an engine and transmission together. Sure it makes the bell housing bolts a lot easier. But it makes the torque converter bolts a lot tougher. But as said by everyone else. Don't do it.
 
Again, I don't see the problem. Last time I pulled mine, I reached in past the pan with a ratchet/ extension, took out 1 bolt, rotated the engine, took out..........etc. I'm an old guy with arthritis, and I don't think this took me 15 minutes if that. And I HATE getting down on my knees anymore..........

Had some of the weight of the engine/ trans on two old tires, the engine still hanging on the hoist.
 
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