Help spec'ing out a new small block

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rumblefish360 said:
@boosted I was just informed by replicar that he can not find cam codes for the 48* blocks anywhere.

IMO, it’s a huge expense even if they are available.
I myself don’t want to go that route even if the cam cores were available.
Click to expand...

Getting cam cores was always an issue. Why I never bought one. I think when I was looking into it it was another several thousand dollars to do the 48 degree block just because of cam costs. Of course, I was going to do a 4-7/2-5 swap or whatever it is plus do 55MM cam bearings.
 
Exactly! The cost is high and to much for my wallet.
We can do very well on the 59* cam and a stock block can go pretty far. Exceeding that is a deep dive into the expensive parts.
Bracket racing, IMO, really doesn’t need these parts for the most part and those expensive parts are great for the heads up and go fast anyway you can to win crowd.

My wallet isn’t that thick.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Exactly! The cost is high and to much for my wallet.
We can do very well on the 59* cam and a stock block can go pretty far. Exceeding that is a deep dive into the expensive parts.
Bracket racing, IMO, really doesn’t need these parts for the most part and those expensive parts are great for the heads up and go fast anyway you can to win crowd.

My wallet isn’t that thick.
Click to expand...
And this is why I'm glad I started this discussion. Starting to add up what it's going to take to build this thing and finding a used engine might be the way to go IF a different combo is what I decide to do. I keep saying it and will say it again.... there's always the option to throw a better flowing set of heads on my short block. lol
 
What’s your short block now displacement wise?
 
-Boosted- said:
And this is why I'm glad I started this discussion. Starting to add up what it's going to take to build this thing and finding a used engine might be the way to go IF a different combo is what I decide to do. I keep saying it and will say it again.... there's always the option to throw a better flowing set of heads on my short block. lol
Click to expand...
The parts that are being throw at you are not necessarily at all. Way overkill to run want you said you wanted to run.
My car isn’t fast but it does run well into the 9’s on a budget. If you knew want specs my engine had you would laugh. Only thing new is the cam. Everything else I bought used.

You don’t need a Ritter or R3 block.
 
9secRR said:
The parts that are being throw at you are not necessarily at all. Way overkill to run want you said you wanted to run.
My car isn’t fast but it does run well into the 9’s on a budget. If you knew want specs my engine had you would laugh. Only thing new is the cam. Everything else I bought used.

You don’t need a Ritter or R3 block.
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How does it go 9s & is not fast?
lol
 
Ok, I think you guys have convinced me to work with what I got and build on it versus building a Ritter or R3. Unless I find a used setup for a good deal, I will shelve the idea.

I should have some timeslips in a month or so and then I will know what to do next. I am already thinking different cam and better flowing heads but we will see.

Thanks all for the information sharing. It has truly educated me.

Bill
 
@boosted Best flowing heads possible…. A camshaft that takes advantage of the heads flow capabilities.

The 5C rule
Cam
Compression
Carb
Converter
Cogs

(6th-Cubes, more optional)
 
rumblefish360 said:
@boosted Best flowing heads possible…. A camshaft that takes advantage of the heads flow capabilities.

The 5C rule
Cam
Compression
Carb
Converter
Cogs

(6th-Cubes, more optional)
Click to expand...
Yeah, and looking at that list with the parts I currently have, here's my bench racing assessment.

Cam - Solid Roller .660 lift, 254/268 duration @ .050 and 108 lobe center. Decent specs, could be bigger but probably perfect for these heads.
12.5:1 CR
977ish billet 4150 from Dominic Thumper
5800 stall (flashed right at 5750 on the chassis dyno) 9" PTC non-lockup converter. Probably too much stall in my opinion but we will know for sure once it goes down the track.
Spooled 4.30's on a 29x10.50 Hoosier Drag Slick with stiff sidewalls.

408ci which is as big as I would go with this block.
Out of the box Trick Flow cnc heads and Track Heat intake (blueprinted on install)
Hedman Hustler 1 7/8 primaries and 3.5" collector running through 3" mandrel bent duals with x-pipe and Dynomax UltraFlow SS welded mufflers.
 
I would give a shout out to Brett Miller he eats sleeps and breathes his stuff and if your wallet is thick enough you will definitely get your numbers and some...with E85 all the way..160°..cool and powerful
 
-Boosted- said:
Cam - Solid Roller .660 lift, 254/268 duration @ .050 and 108 lobe center. Decent specs, could be bigger but probably perfect for these heads.
Click to expand...
Nice street beast cam IMO A similar cam was used with a set of Victors where Miller ported them. I forget the displacement, but it was around 370. The Victors allowed impressively good power with a small cam like that. It was an engine masters entry IIRC.

This alone shows exactly what I say, get the best head you can up top! The tunnel ram also help.
-Boosted- said:
12.5:1 CR
977ish billet 4150 from Dominic Thumper
5800 stall (flashed right at 5750 on the chassis dyno) 9" PTC non-lockup converter. Probably too much stall in my opinion but we will know for sure once it goes down the track.
Spooled 4.30's on a 29x10.50 Hoosier Drag Slick with stiff sidewalls.
Click to expand...
If this all works now, changing the camshaft will effect it a lot. You know the drill.
-Boosted- said:
408ci which is as big as I would go with this block.
Out of the box Trick Flow cnc heads and Track Heat intake (blueprinted on install)
Click to expand...
IDK if a TF head has what it takes. As in how far it can be ported.

-Boosted- said:
Hedman Hustler 1 7/8 primaries and 3.5" collector running through 3" mandrel bent duals with x-pipe and Dynomax UltraFlow SS welded mufflers.
Click to expand...
Good, not great. A lot depends ultimately on the total HP made.
 
And because I can’t keep still or leave anything alone…. I am testing out a Christmas present from my wife. A LSM valve lash adjusting torque wrench.

IMG_2093.jpeg


IMG_2094.jpeg
 
Ha ha ha ha ha! Excellent wife! Good show Mrs. Boosted!
 
Not going to post a picture of it but I am also wearing the SFI pants and neck brace (already had the jacket, shoes and gloves) she got me while adjusting valves.... LOL
 
-Boosted- said:
Not going to post a picture of it but I am also wearing the SFI pants and neck brace (already had the jacket, shoes and gloves) she got me while adjusting valves.... LOL
Click to expand...
Just say underwear, John will come back and post something
 
-Boosted- said:
And because I can’t keep still or leave anything alone…. I am testing out a Christmas present from my wife. A LSM valve lash adjusting torque wrench.

View attachment 1716183057

View attachment 1716183058
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Been eyeing these. What torque setting did you order? I’ve never torqued mine, just “grunt” tight with a combination wrench since the torque wrench doesn’t have a hole through it to fight the adjuster from turning. If you got the standard 22lbf*ft, does it feel right? Thanks!
 
dusterbing the peace said:
Been eyeing these. What torque setting did you order? I’ve never torqued mine, just “grunt” tight with a combination wrench since the torque wrench doesn’t have a hole through it to fight the adjuster from turning. If you got the standard 22lbf*ft, does it feel right? Thanks!
Click to expand...
My wife ordered the standard kit which is 22 ft lbs and matches what HS recommends. I would have ordered the one that has the 1/2” socket welded to it but this one works perfectly fine as well.
 
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