I Believe I'm Not Finished: Block Honing

[JoJo]

This is my first attempt of block honing. I purchased the Lisle Engine Hone that has the three stones. I went through all cylinders at 30 seconds each cylinder (1 full stroke = 1 second)...

End result:

Should I go back over the cylinders with the same process or that's fine as long as it's honed where the rings make contact?

 

[jaimus]

Recommend you get a ridge removal tool and a dial gauge before you go any further

 

[moper]

Judging by what I see...
You needed to also have a ridger reamer becuase the tops of the bores cocked the stones. This ridge has a very good chance of breaking either the rings or ring lands if new rings are used.
It looks WAY too rough. Did you use any lubricant on it? What are the grit of the stones?
The way the stones did not contact at the bottom of the bores tells me the bores had a ton of taper and it really should have been bored and new pistons installed.

 

[TrailBeast]

Um, somebody else want to take this one?
I wouldn't put piston is thoes bores as they look in the picture.

Sorry, just my oppinion.

 

[jaimus]

Judging by what I see...
You needed to also have a ridger reamer becuase the tops of the bores cocked the stones. This ridge has a very good chance of breaking either the rings or ring lands if new rings are used.
It looks WAY too rough. Did you use any lubricant on it? What are the grit of the stones?
The way the stones did not contact at the bottom of the bores tells me the bores had a ton of taper and it really should have been bored and new pistons installed.

Yep, I'd measure those jugs for roundness as well,...I'd venture to guess a bore job might be in order,.or ya might be building it for nothing,...been there, broke that,...

 

[JoJo]

Recommend you get a ridge removal tool and a dial gauge before you go any further

:banghead:

Can the ridge removal tool be purchased at a local parts store?

 

[jaimus]

:banghead:

Can the ridge removal tool be purchased at a local parts store?

I'd go to Napa,...Not autozone or advanced,...First build you say???

 

[moper]

I think you can rent them from Auto Zones and most retail parts places. You also need to carefully read the instructions with it as if you screw it up by rushing or going too fast, you will trash the bores.

 

[TrailBeast]

Yea, what they said, especially the boring part, and the ridge tool.
I have seen cylinder destroyed with those
Little bit at a time is the key like was mentioned.
If you have to do it this way to get it by for the time being you can keep going with the hone about twice what you have done so far with a good amount of light oil.
Run that hone back and forth like you are sawing a log, and get oversized rings to match to the cylinders.
Search the site about hand fitting the rings and good luck.

 

[JoJo]

Judging by what I see...
You needed to also have a ridger reamer becuase the tops of the bores cocked the stones. This ridge has a very good chance of breaking either the rings or ring lands if new rings are used.
It looks WAY too rough. Did you use any lubricant on it? What are the grit of the stones?
The way the stones did not contact at the bottom of the bores tells me the bores had a ton of taper and it really should have been bored and new pistons installed.

Yes lubricant was used... Cylinder needs to be wiped out. I do not remember seeing a number for the grit of the stones. Contact was made at the bottom. That's where the bottom ring/piston stopped at similar to the ridge up top.

 

[JoJo]

I'd go to Napa,...Not autozone or advanced,...First build you say???

Yes, this is my first engine rebuild and decided I wanted to do majority of the work myself. I'm young and learning whenever an opportunity knocks. I rebuilt my first transmission (TF-904) on my front porch a few years back.

 

[demon seed]

Before going any further you need to map out all 8 cylinders using a bore guage preferrably, check for out of round at top/bottom/middle then check how much taper there is, in line with crank then 90deg. After all that you may find that the holes are out so far that a hone is a waist of time and the block needs to be machine bored.

 

[Oldmanmopar]

I am not going to sugar coat this the bores are shot . It needs to go to a machine shop and get bored tor new pistons. Not often do you see a ridge at the top and bottom. Don't waiste any more time on those cylinder bores they are toast. Yeah it'll run but not good and not for long. why waist the gaskets and oil.

 

[TrailBeast]

If that trans worked when you got done then you have the skills to do anything on your car.
The only thing you need is info and experience.
The info is on this site, and well,,,,the experience just happens to ya.

Yes, this is my first engine rebuild and decided I wanted to do majority of the work myself. I'm young and learning whenever an opportunity knocks. I rebuilt my first transmission (TF-904) on my front porch a few years back.

 

[furz4]

If your using a rigid hone you have to cut the ridge or you get results like what you see now. I have always used a flex hone for basic re-ring jobs. They cost just a little more then the 3 stone unit but it is almost impossible to mess up a cylinder with one. Rings will seat well and they are available in different grits for cast or molly ring needs.

 

[jaimus]

Yes, this is my first engine rebuild and decided I wanted to do majority of the work myself. I'm young and learning whenever an opportunity knocks. I rebuilt my first transmission (TF-904) on my front porch a few years back.

Good for you,...we all started that way,...this is the place to ask questions...gotta say that those bores are gonna need a little more attention than a mild hone tho,...gotta a decent machine shop down there?

 

[JoJo]

If that trans worked when you got done then you have the skills to do anything on your car.
The only thing you need is info and experience.
The info is on this site, and well,,,,the experience just happens to ya.

Yes, the trans worked and only needed band adjustments after finished. I love this site... I sit and read through numerous pages almost everyday.

 

[JoJo]

Good for you,...we all started that way,...this is the place to ask questions...gotta say that those bores are gonna need a little more attention than a mild hone tho,...gotta a decent machine shop down there?

Napa does the machine work locally.

 

[jaimus]

Yes, the trans worked and only needed band adjustments after finished. I love this site... I sit and read through numerous pages almost everyday.

Outstanding,...spent years doin trani's,,...not for the average wrenchhead,.....sounds like ya gotta a knack

 

[JoJo]

If your using a rigid hone you have to cut the ridge or you get results like what you see now. I have always used a flex hone for basic re-ring jobs. They cost just a little more then the 3 stone unit but it is almost impossible to mess up a cylinder with one. Rings will seat well and they are available in different grits for cast or molly ring needs.

I started to buy the Flex Hone, but people said the Lisle would do just as good as long as you take it slow and use enough lubricant.

 

[JoJo]

I am not going to sugar coat this the bores are shot . It needs to go to a machine shop and get bored tor new pistons. Not often do you see a ridge at the top and bottom. Don't waiste any more time on those cylinder bores they are toast. Yeah it'll run but not good and not for long. why waist the gaskets and oil.

Thanks for not "sugar coating" about the cylinders. I was skeptical about them. I had options to buy a couple of engines ready to drop in, but I had fell in love with this one after hearing it run and receiving numerous comments. I thought the would be a simple rebuild, but hurdles keep coming.

 

[jaimus]

And this is how it goes,...BWAAAAHAAAAHAAAAAAAHAAA

prolly cost ya a couple or 3 hundred,...for a bore and hot tank job,...Trust the old guys,It'll be money well spent,

 

[JoJo]

Before going any further you need to map out all 8 cylinders using a bore guage preferrably, check for out of round at top/bottom/middle then check how much taper there is, in line with crank then 90deg. After all that you may find that the holes are out so far that a hone is a waist of time and the block needs to be machine bored.

I'll hold off and most likely have it machine bored .030 :banghead:

 

[JoJo]

Outstanding,...spent years doin trani's,,...not for the average wrenchhead,.....sounds like ya gotta a knack

I have a true passion for it and I haven't set foot in a classroom for any of this. I thought about taking up Automotive Technology at a local technical college or even trying UTI in Orlando.

 

[JoJo]

And this is how it goes,...BWAAAAHAAAAHAAAAAAAHAAA

prolly cost ya a couple or 3 hundred,...for a bore and hot tank job,...Trust the old guys,It'll be money well spent,

I guess this is the result of being "different" as some say, lol.

Thought I would be saving myself a few coins rebuilding this engine instead of buying something I don't know nothing about and having to rebuild it. I had the chance of buying a couple of engine, but decided to keep this one.

Already Purchased: Re-Ring Kit, used rotating assembly for crank and rods (stock pistons free), New Comp Cams XE262-H & lifters, used Comp Cams springs, water pump, oil pump, double roller timing chain...

Top end ready for assembly.... I cleaned and painted myself for the first time. I guess it'll have to wait, lol.