Intake bottleneck thoughts

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moper said:
My LA360 plow truck runs great with the 318 Performer on it. It's more about where you want the power. I don't ever go over 4200, and most stuff is 3500 or so max, with cruise at 2K-2400. It's been on there 10 years of more now. I'd say if you're not normally running full throttle over 4k, it's fine and it's all in your head. Up to you. SOme people get bugged by stiff like that.
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Bobzilla said:
I keep coming back to a couple questions. If this was my boggle, would I be satisfied with the 2176 reworked, even if I thought I could feel the improvement on the street, or at the strip for that matter? Would I constantly wonder if the bigger volume of the air gap would be even a little better? What if I cleaned up the air gap before I put it on; how much more would I get? Screw that! I'll get the air gap so these questions don't keep me up at night.
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Both of your posts are exactly where I have been.
(it runs fine, it could run better?, but it runs fine, but it might run better) and on and on.:D

Then there's also the part where I could use the 2176 on the Wife's car.
Right now hers is a stock cast iron with a two barrel, and I'm actually not sure she'll let me change it. :D
Outside of a LED modified with white gauge faces dash cluster and a 1968 340 grind cam it's a totally stock 72 Swinger two door hard top.
 
rigger3006 said:
get the air gap.it was a large improvement over my ld340, contrary to popular opinion!now to try strip dominator with tq superquad
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where did you get the results showing the air gap as an improvement over the LD340?
Stock cast intakes are used successfully on small blocks running in the 10's.
 
butt and length of rubber strips dyno, ld340 was port matched, i pulled it off and put on air gap with no changes other than that, i noticed the difference and so did my screaming wife.just my observation, i have put it on wifes 340 duster since then, but now she wants a "shiny" intake, tried swapping for one but they were all single planes
 
ir3333 said:
where did you get the results showing the air gap as an improvement over the LD340?
Stock cast intakes are used successfully on small blocks running in the 10's.
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I also made this swap. The LD-340 is capable and not worth the current intake prices to swap IMO, but you will notice an improvement.
I really liked the LD w/a large TQ.

The guys running stock intakes into the 10’s are in the FAST class. IF they switched to an LD-340 or RPM, they would also improve a good bit. Besides not being legal for the class, there engine builds are strangled in a huge way by having to appear stock.

They run very large cubic inch engines with strangling carb, intake, heads & exhaust manifolds. Power would soar with aftermarket parts!
 
I'm a big fan of any air gap intake, to the point that I try to duct fresh air to the gap lol
 
I would recommend the regular RPM for a street car but you're in Arizona so cold temps probably aren't that big of an issue lol. Air-Gap FTW, I ran one on my 360 with Magnum heads that had a slightly smaller cam than yours (213/220* @ .050" on a 114) and it was a torque monster, had a stock ~2100-stall converter with 2.94 gears and still shot off the line pretty well. Got pretty good gas mileage too, like 19-20 on the highway... initially ran a 625 cfm Carter AFB then switched to a 750 cfm Street Demon (the "modern TQ"-looking carb).
 
They run very large cubic inch engines with strangling carb, intake, heads & exhaust manifolds. Power would soar with aftermarket parts!

but i was thinking of the old e and f stock classes.They rely on gears,tires,balancing and blueprinting plus there is some wiggle room on the cams,and exhaust.Typically they get into the 10's w/4.88 gears.

I thought FAST was anything goes ...as long as it is factory appearance with stock tires?So a thermoquad could flow 1000cfm if you have the skills to modify it.Doesn't D. Dudick campagne a 426 hemi RR on F70 15 belted tires at 9.98 140 mph?
Is his 426 stroked? If it is it would be legal in the FAST class.You can also modify most anything as long as it appears factory.I read it is over 700 hp...and don't sit on the rear seat.
Pure stock is different,they are pretty restricted.Are any of them in the 12's?
 
i have read a thousand times that the air gap out performs all others and it may very well be a better intake.It would be nice to see time slips, an engine with an Air gap and then LD340.
Not from a magazine or TV show
 
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MOPEkidD-3 said:
I would recommend the regular RPM for a street car but you're in Arizona so cold temps probably aren't that big of an issue lol. Air-Gap FTW, I ran one on my 360 with Magnum heads that had a slightly smaller cam than yours (213/220* @ .050" on a 114) and it was a torque monster, had a stock ~2100-stall converter with 2.94 gears and still shot off the line pretty well. Got pretty good gas mileage too, like 19-20 on the highway... initially ran a 625 cfm Carter AFB then switched to a 750 cfm Street Demon (the "modern TQ"-looking carb).
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I have 2.73 gears and an 1,800 stall lockup converter and the A500 trans has the low first like the A999.
I'm in second half way across an intersection unless I hold in in first manually.
I get around 25mpg on the hiway at 80mph and running right at 2,100 RPM.
Point is, the A500 overdrive trans kind of gives me the best of both worlds.

I may be in AZ, but where I live is right at 5,500 ft so it does get a bit cold sometimes.
It snowed here this last Sunday and was 20 F.
 
Given what you have, and where you are, I think you are asking for more issues by changing to a larger port intake. Again - choice is yours.
 
moper said:
Given what you have, and where you are, I think you are asking for more issues by changing to a larger port intake. Again - choice is yours.
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The ports on the RPM will better match your heads. It's not like you have 318 2-barrel heads on there.
TrailBeast said:
I rarely tell people what I am doing with my car, and mostly because I don't need extra opinions but this subject is something others may like to know so here we are.:D

When I built my drivetrain I had a limited amount of money to work with so I bought a totally stock Magnum with approx. 96k on it.
I knew I was replacing the heads and cam right away, and used the Engine quest CH318B (LA intake drilled) heads with 1.92 intake valves, good positive sealing stem seals and the Hughes 1110 spring kit with the extra clearance retainers.
I wasn't going for all out horse power, but a nice reliable daily driver.
The cam is 214/[email protected] .512 lift on a 110

I used the Edelbrock 600 cfm carb and 2176 318/360 Performer intake I had on my 318.
Now awhile later I am going back over a few things I knew were not quite optimal even just for a daily driver.
Even though the motor runs really nice and has been super reliable, I have to somewhat laugh about the intake to heads ports situation.
The EQ heads intake ports are around 1/4 inch larger all the way around than the 2176 ports are, and though I know it would be way worse if it were the other way around it seems I can't stop thinking about doing something about it, as I can't help thinking the intake charge is probably slowing down right where it probably shouldn't for the mid RPM torque the cam is ground for.

Any thoughts on if a different intake would be better for ft lbs but still keep everything under thee hood and keep the dual plane street manners?
It sure wouldn't hurt anything to have more power available, but would a different intake make that much difference for daily driving.

I can use the excuse that the 2176 would better suit the Wifes stock 318 with a 1968 340 grind cam.:D
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I am running the Magnum #7577 RPM Air-gap with mild cam and OE replacement heads and it's not lacking anything anywhere. Not trying to argue just thought you'd like to hear from somebody actually running something like what you are looking at.
 
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