KB Dome Pistons in 383. Do you like them?

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I’ve used them, a buddy has built a couple motors with them. Seeem to hold up well... be sure to follow the instructions about the ring gap.

I think a got about 11 to 1 with some 70cc heads
 
jas0162 said:
I’ve used them, a buddy has built a couple motors with them. Seeem to hold up well... be sure to follow the instructions about the ring gap.

I think a got about 11 to 1 with some 70cc heads
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I'm hoping for a little over 10:1 that with a zero deck. Thank you for the tip on ring gap. Gonna run a tunnel ram. About 7k will be seen regularly so i went with the hyper to save a little weight in the RA. Custom grind on a .904 not a chevy blank. I'm hoping for a pretty stout 383. Thank you both for the replies.
 
Looking at the pics of the chambers, I would think that a couple of chamber cuts around the valves set to the confines of the 4.27 inch bore wouldn't hurt anything. Like Jas1062 said, with frequent trips to 7,000 rpm, keep the ring gap and maybe (probably?) the piston to wall toward the loose side. With Fel-Pro 1009 gaskets .039 compressed thickness and "close to 80cc chambers" (440 Source), your static compression by the summit calculator comes up to 10.47:1 with a zero deck height installation.
 
My son used to buzz his 383 to 7,000 with those pistons and iron heads. Only problem he ever had was spun rod bearings from lack of oil in the corners. Pistons looked great both times they were removed. The last time we sold all the 383 stuff so that someday he could build a stroker with the 400 block I found for him. Some day...
 
Garrett Ellison said:
Looking at the pics of the chambers, I would think that a couple of chamber cuts around the valves set to the confines of the 4.27 inch bore wouldn't hurt anything. Like Jas1062 said, with frequent trips to 7,000 rpm, keep the ring gap and maybe (probably?) the piston to wall toward the loose side. With Fel-Pro 1009 gaskets .039 compressed thickness and "close to 80cc chambers" (440 Source), your static compression by the summit calculator comes up to 10.47:1 with a zero deck height installation.
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That's the exact gasket i chose for the build. Thanks For the info for the shrouding. All of the input on the pistons is really helping. I had not seen many reviews so I'm glad you guys have used them.
 
Jim Lusk said:
My son used to buzz his 383 to 7,000 with those pistons and iron heads. Only problem he ever had was spun rod bearings from lack of oil in the corners. Pistons looked great both times they were removed. The last time we sold all the 383 stuff so that someday he could build a stroker with the 400 block I found for him. Some day...
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Thank you for the info. How long did it survive before the fun police came a knocking? I was gonna do a 400 block, stock stroke with trickflow heads but i had the 383 laying around and said whatever, max effort street 383 going in haha.
 
Garrett Ellison said:
Looking at the pics of the chambers, I would think that a couple of chamber cuts around the valves set to the confines of the 4.27 inch bore wouldn't hurt anything. Like Jas1062 said, with frequent trips to 7,000 rpm, keep the ring gap and maybe (probably?) the piston to wall toward the loose side. With Fel-Pro 1009 gaskets .039 compressed thickness and "close to 80cc chambers" (440 Source), your static compression by the summit calculator comes up to 10.47:1 with a zero deck height installation.
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Just was looking at the E-Streets. Thoughts? Which one has better designed and reinforced ports?
 
On the unshrouding, I had quoted bore size but need to correct that to head gasket bore size (4.31 inch). I strongly advise CC’ing the heads after cuts so you can know your exact static compression ratio.
 
Don’t worry about valve shrouding. Avoid what you can, ignore the rest. Build right past it without worry.
 
But I’m serious. Some things you can avoid and perhaps you should and do your best on it. The rest.... no worries.
Though this example is a Chevy engine, (some of) the corvette engine have horrible shrouding but yet still make excellent power. The GM engineers do not seem to concerned.

Again, do what you can and ignore the rest. You make it as good as you can get it and it will certainly perform.
 
ValiantKindOfGuy said:
Thank you for the info. How long did it survive before the fun police came a knocking? I was gonna do a 400 block, stock stroke with trickflow heads but i had the 383 laying around and said whatever, max effort street 383 going in haha.
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Actually lived quite well until we swapped the single plane intake for the dual plane (both vintage Edelbrock pieces). He was autocrossing the car and I could see from the side lines that he coming out of the corners MUCH harder with a great increase in low end torque. That was the first spun rod bearing. The second was while the car was on the market and he was going through a divorce. He and his first wife lived out in the country of the central coast range of California so there were many opportunities to drive it hard through the hills.

Due to his life circumstances the car came back here and has sat for about ten years. He and his new wife are moving to three acres with a new house in the next month and will soon have a small shop so that his car can go back to him
 
Hey Valiant guy I have pretty much this same combo ready to go together. It ought to be some fun!!

Mike
 
Jim Lusk said:
Actually lived quite well until we swapped the single plane intake for the dual plane (both vintage Edelbrock pieces). He was autocrossing the car and I could see from the side lines that he coming out of the corners MUCH harder with a great increase in low end torque. That was the first spun rod bearing.
What if any oiling system mods or improvements had been made? One of the main reasons external line oil systems were engineered was to improve availability of oil to the pickup during high G forces. Not saying it would take a dual line system to live, but a 1/2 inch pickup and a pan with good baffling would probably help.
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You might take a look at the Icon 687, it's a tad lighter and forged. It will yield about 10.4 compression with a 80cc Stealth chamber.
125 mph is going to take a SERIOUS camshaft, RPM and head flow with a 383.
 
^^What he says^^ I think to do 125 in the 1/4 the brand of head you need usually goes by the company’s initials followed by Power Port 240 CNC. Or high compression and a big enough cam to bleed it off for street driving.
 
fishmens67 said:
You might take a look at the Icon 687, it's a tad lighter and forged. It will yield about 10.4 compression with a 80cc Stealth chamber.
125 mph is going to take a SERIOUS camshaft, RPM and head flow with a 383.
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The car will see 7k plus rpm. Cam is going to be a custom grind solid flat on a mopar blank. The car if i had to guess will be under 2900 when all done. 125 wont be hard to achieve even on a stock port stealth, eddy, ect ect. Price for a set on the icons? I like the weight, really light.
 
Garrett Ellison said:
^^What he says^^ I think to do 125 in the 1/4 the brand of head you need usually goes by the company’s initials followed by Power Port 240 CNC. Or high compression and a big enough cam to bleed it off for street driving.
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I agree that the trick flows are badass, they were my first choice. I would love to run them and I probably will. That being said I don't think its necessary to run 125. Ported Stealth heads were stated in the OP but that was just a consideration at the time that has been ruled out along with the eddys because I know I'm just gonna sell them and buy trick flows later anyway. To add on. The rpm I plan on running is something I don't think the cross section of the eddy or stealth can support. It's just not the right port for it.
 
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