Lokar kickdown linkage issues

[chris989604]

Hello All.
I read what i found and could not locate and answer.

I have a 1980 CJ7 and they used the 904 transmission in the year. Prior to my rebuild, the rod linkage was impossible to adjust correctly. To have decent shift points, the trans lever would bottom out before full throttle.

I installed the lokar throttle and kickdown cables and i still have the issue, maybe worse. I am not sure if the OEM linkage changed the throw ratio?

I am running a holley carb and tried the kick down bracket holley sells. The offsets caused cable issues at the carb. I can modify it but not sure if that bracket will solve my issue.

As of now, when adjusted to shift well at light throttle, the lever still bottoms out before full throttle. Also, with this adjustment, the trans will shift way soon under moderate to full throttle.
Currently, where the kick down mounts to the holley is a little before 6'oclock. the holley accessory bracket moves it to ~7oclock but makes the radius longer.

Can anyone give me some insight as to the ratio of the carb vs trans lever and maybe the attitude of the attachment at the carb? (4,5,6,7 o'clcock)

my trans lever measures ~1.750"
carb lever ~1.300"
the looey bracket adds ~.250"


Sorry for the rambling,,, I just have zero knowledge of Mopar transmissions.

Thanks in advance,
Chris

 

[kiss]

This is classic with Lokar cables. IMO their kit is incomplete. It lacks a correct length and clocked kickdown lever, a light return spring for down at the kickdown lever, and a more sturdy mounting bracket at the transmission. I really wish at the very least they'd include a correctly clocked kickdown lever with a slot instead of a hole, for adjustability.

For your exact situation I'd drill a couple hose slightly closer to the pivot point on your kickdown lever and try mounting the cable there. You might get lucky and be able to make it work. Every stock kickdown lever I've seen is way too long for Holley or Edelbrock carbs and needs to be modified or replaced.

In addition here are some tips I wrote in another thread:

1. Transmission kickdown return. Because of the cable design it can get "bound-up" from 1 cause or another (stressed cable, not enough spring action in the kickdown lever, etc) and delay returning when letting off the gas, or get hung-up and not return all the way. If this is happening you can add a light return spring down on the kickdown lever. A good mounting point for the spring is the boss where the column-shift linkage bolts to. I personally have always added this light return spring when using Lokar.

2. Transmission kickdown throw. You need to ensure that the throw is correct on the kickdown lever. The most recent install I did (Edelbrock carb, 727 transmission) the kickdown lever was the shortest style (fyi there are several styles of different lengths). Even though it was the shortest lever it was still too long for the Edelbrock carb. With the kickdown lever all the way back at WOT, with foot off the gas, it wouldn't release the lever enough, so the shift points were VERY late. I slowly adjusted the cable back little by little, and by the time I got somewhat reasonable shift points, the car would no longer kick-down when I floored it. I had to remove the lever and drill a hole closer to the bracket mounting point (there was actually already a small hole there) to allow for greater throw.

Instead of drilling a hole you can purchase the correct kickdown lever from A&A Transmission.
Home - A&A Transmissions

Alternatively you could make a sliding bracket at the carb with a slot to slide the Lokar cable inwards or outwards for more throw.

3. Mounting bracket. If you've noticed the little piece of wimpy sheet metal they give you which mounts the cable to the transmission is weak. It flexes and bends easily. That really needs to be replaced with a thicker piece of metal. You should do this so the cable doesn't flex/bend and mess-up any of your adjustments.

 

[Clelan]

Something I learned when setting mine up was to adjust the bands to factory spec before you set the kickdown. Had I done that, I would have been happy with the LOKAR cable right away.

Cley

 

[TrailBeast]

And then there's the possibility that the pump pressure is off.
If the pump output pressures are not right you will always have one problem or the other.
Pressure checked and set, linkage at full and TP at full at the same time.

On my own car when I had the two barrel on it I took pics I wanted a bit later shifts and a bit earlier kickdown so I did this web page to explain what I did.
Of course this is a rod actuated system, but the same idea can translate to the cable type.
It simply allows WOT after the kickdown is already at full travel and gave it an earlier kickdown.
Ok (click the Ok) for the page.

THEN when I did the 5.9 swap I built this to allow changes in the geometry by moving the attaching point of the TP cable in a slide.
(just some options that might help or even give you some ideas)

 

[Jimacuda]

Nice write-up