Opinions on low end 360?

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Okay, time for an upgrade!
Been lots of other stuff going on so we have a serious delay here...
Well, I had the heads shaved off as we discussed and the result was 60.5cc chambers so now the CR would be around 9.7:1. Traded the RPM intake for the lower Performer 318/360. Found a bunch of TQ's but they all needs rebuild and I haven't found the time to order a kit yet. By the way, I have heard that there are bad and good kits out there and I don't know what to order. Any experience?

I had a re-manufactured 1969-1971 Carter AVS 4966S (1971 440") on the shelf so I put that on, eager to take a test drive.
Distributor is a MP that I have restriction welded and put lighter springs in. I set timing to 36* fully advanced w/o vacuum and that gave me around 22* at idle. Seems like it is fully advanced at 2,200 rpm.
Got a lot more punch from idle and it still revs happily! Just found an old Autometer tach and it will be fun to see the revs. It sounds really mean with the exhaust note and superb throttle response!
Next upgrade will be a cam swap, but I'm happy with it how it runs for now. The 3.23 is a cone style and suddenly it slips so now my street is full of single tracks... Before the mods there was no way to brake the tires loose on dry pavement.

The only issue is a slight pinging at low rpm's on third when you come to an uphill. It goes away as soon as you give it a little more throttle. I have no experience from Carter AVS so I haven't touched it aside from turning the screws watching a vacuum meter. Does the timing come in too early or can I correct that lean spot by jetting? Can't find the note I did some weeks ago when I had it assembled and checked the cylinder pressure but I'm pretty sure it was between 170-180 psi.

Found some info on the net and some of them say that distributor vacuum should be connected to the front, and this always confuses me. The connection on the back of the carb is, from what I understand, the ported vacuum so it gives a lot of vacuum and timing when cruising and the throttle is maybe open only 1/4, then when you floor it the ported vacuum drops and timing goes back to the mechanical setting. The intake vacuum is "the opposite" and can not be used for distr vacuum right? But what is it used for then?
 
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AJ/FormS said:
I said I have made TQs work on teeners,Right? It's all about tuning. And I have Tuned a 600(list 1850) to get 32mpgUS, so Holleys can be made to work. Again, it's in the tune.The TQ has no aftermarket support, so tuning it can be a challenge. But since your build is so mild, it may work with minor adjustments. And like I've always maintained; I LOVE TQs.

The problem I forsee with a Small TQ on your build, is transitioning.
When you floor it at the bottom of first gear, your TC will flash to it's stall. Then the car will accelerate in first gear to 3500/35mph and the secondaries may have just begun to open. But you are shutting down. So the secondaries slam shut, leaving a huge puddle of gas sitting in the manifold. As soon as you again open the primaries, guess what, that fuel starts moving. And your plugs are not gonna like that. If you get tirespin, it will be less of an issue, but as you feather the pedal out, and the tires hook, the secondaries will again close, allbeit dryer this time.
No, for you I see a very small mechanical secondary 4bbl as a nice option. You will get all 4 bbls whenever you hammer it. You will be able to control wheelspin with the footfeeder, and feather it out as you approach your target mph or rpm.On the flipside, with no tirespin, you won't have fuel puddling under the secondaries from them suddenly slamming shut, so, getting back on it in mid-stride will be smooth and uneventful.
You can tune the TQ to minimize that puddling thing, or you can modify your driving style to work with those secondaries. Neither of which I would want to do. Furthermore, that vacuum sec carb will not let the engine unleash all its potential, at city cruising speed.
Say you are tooling along at 30 mph. with 3.23s and 28s in third this would be about 1200rpm,plus TC slip. But you wanna G-O, so you hit it! Tranny shifts down to second, and rpm climbs to 1700 plus slip/stall,say2200 . Well the secondaries might as well not be there,cuz they are not coming on line til around 50 mph. So what do you do? Slam it into manual low. So now the Rs climb to 2850 plus slip, say 3200. Ok now the secondaries are beginning to open. In just a little while they will smoothly come on line, as the vehicle smoothly accelerates;no drama.
I like drama. Capital D,Drama. I want tirespin, smoke,screaming pipes,and hard charging look-at-me-go. Especially with passengers on board. Like why do you think I spent a years wages on this beast, for smooth acceleration? Heck-no!
So for me it's a DP hands down. For you, if they make em in a 500, that would be big enough.And nicely controllable, and light 'em up at 30mph big fun, with giggles and smiles for everyone.
Ok enough bs already.
Click to expand...


this is great hahaha
 
Put the factory 340 cam in it. Advance it to 110 ICL. It has a power range from idle to 5800.
 
On the 4966s AVS the distributor vacuum advance port is on the front. Try that and see if the pinging goes away. Nice carb by the way.
 
Hi HP2. Sorry to make this suggestion late, but I wanted to read the whole thread so I didn't make a duplicate suggestion. You mentioned long drives with your wife, good gas mileage and such, so have you considered a economical FiTech EFI, instead of a carb? There is a great FABO thread that you should read.

FiTech EFI system

Johnny Pace provides a 5% discount to FABO members and is a great help if you have technical questions.

If you don't want the FiTech to control timing, you can get the FiTech Go Street 4 Injector 400 HP Carb Swap EFI System for only $795 - FABO discount. Something to think about anyway.

Travis
 
The pinging could be a lean jetting but doubt it if the OE rod and jets are in that carb. Or to much timing at a low RPM. Low octane would be my 3rd choice.
 
I think you may have jumped the gun on trading that RPM intake for the regular Performer... I was going to mention putting a 625 Street Demon on there, I have the 750 cfm version on my 360 and it's a great carb. It's essentially a ThermoQuad with all the finicky emissions stuff removed and redesigned so it fits on a square bore intake manifold. Gives you close to the economy of a spread bore that fits on a square bore.

I'd also HIGHLY recommend this cam for what you want: Voodoo Hydraulic Flat Tappet Cam - Chrysler 273-360 256/262 - Lunati Power I have it in my 360 and it is a torque MONSTER, pulls hard right off idle up to about 5000 RPM and works great with my stock converter and 2.94 rear gears. And I do mean that specific cam, not just any Voodoo cam because the bigger ones obviously will move the power band up higher.

Regarding the pinging it sounds like you need to adjust your vacuum advance can just a tad, it might be pulling in too much timing at low load cruising.
 
Hi! I'm new here and bumping the thread!

Bought my first proper car earlier this year, a 1963 Valiant and I have recieved tons of help from HP2 on the car!!! Tore out the old 318 from the car and replaced it with one of his 360 engines. Currently running it with a stock 340 intake, a rebuild thermoquad from a 400, a mild mopar performance cam and other than that bone stock.

We've been thinking of repurposing the 2200rpm hughes converter to my car and try to build a fun 0-5000 rpm tiresmoker for cheap! Upgrades include an 8 3/4 rear with 3.55's, 265/65/14's in the rear and lightly modified 308 heads. Any input on that?

I'm trying to make due with everything I have as far as possibly, but I'm searching after headers, thinking about the possibility of machining the heads for a proper CR, but everything down to a price.

Best regards!
 
Sounds like a good start! Steam ahead Captin!!!
 
Thanks for the input! I'm probably byuing a low mileage '90 360 this week to take the heads from! Just as said earlier in the thread I'll try to figure out the CC volyme of the engine and deck the heads there after! Headers are turning out to be a major headache tho. A little too pricey long tubes or non-existant fender wells...:BangHead:
 
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