Por 15 ?????

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blackace

blackace

The KING of flats
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Has anyone here used Por 15? If so how did you apply it? I was thinking of picking up a gallon of this stuff and don't want to spray it on because I don't want over spray all over. Has anyone brushed it on? If so, how did it turn out?
 
I have used it and find it to be excellent. I have only used under the car and in the trunk so I brushed it on. The stuff tacks a long time to dry so it levels out and you won't have any brush marks.

I wouldn't buy a gallon. The stuff doesn't keep well once the can is open. You can pretty much cover the entire bottom of a car with a quart. I would recomend not buying it in anything larger than a qt container. I usualy buy it in pints.

FWIW, the real acid test that has sold me on the stuff is I have metal bulked going into my cellar. I used to have to scrap, prime and paint it every year. About 6 1/2 years ago I painted it with POR15, after it dryed I used POR's primer then painted it with red enamel. Haven't had to touch it since.

BTW, the stuff does not like sunlight, it will get all chaulky looking so it you are using it on the top side you will need to cover it with something. You have two choices; 1) wait to it competely drys and use POR's primer on it, or 2) just before it dry spray it with rattle can primer. The stuff is so hard and so slick when dry paint will not stick to it without a primer.
 
I have to replace the driver side floor pan on my Dart and just gutted the interior this morning. I figured I mine as well coat the whole inside including the trunk area. I didn't want to brush it on if you could see all the brush marks.

What kind of brush did you use? Would a roller be better?
 
NEVER spray POR15 unless you have a forced air respirator. It has some nasty solvents that will fry your brain cells. And when brushing on, always do it out in the open with LOTS of ventilation, and still use a respirator for added protection.

I usually use a sponge type brush when I apply it. I also follow their instructions on prep... marine clean to degrease, wire brush to remove rust scale, then etch with metal ready. It is a lot of work, especially if you are doing a lot of small parts. And don't get it on your hands, it does not come off after it dries. Well, not until the skin cells underneath it die anyway.
 
What dgc said. Used on the floor of the current car, the Magnum and it took alot less than I thought. A little goes far.
After you open it, use plastic food wrap to help keep it. Push it down until it makes contact with the liquid POR-15 and seal the can.
The more it contacts the liquid, the longer shelf life it will have.
 
I use what ever brush I have handy. If I go to the store to get a brush I normally pick up the foam ones because they are cheap. You just can clean a brush throughly enought to make it usable again. Get some of the POR solvent. If you get it on your hands it's the only stuf that will get it off, otherwise it has to wear off. The place I get mine they give you a set of rubber gloves with every purchase.

I use the plastic too but I also keep the cans stored up side down. The best thing though is to perge the can with nitrogen (everyone has a cylinder around right ;) ).

The Marine Clean and Metal Ready are kind of expensive for something you can pick up at the harware store or local body shop supply. Any degreasing solvent will work for removing grease and oil. I use prep solv, simple green or what ever I have handy for removing oil and grease, just pick up something that does not leave a film behind. The Metal Ready is just a diluted phosphoric acid solution. You can get it at the hardware store as a 25% solution (cut it down to about 10% with water) or at the auto paint supply house. Everyone used this stuff before self etching primers became avaialble.

Never heard of any requirements for a forced air respirator from POR. They recomend an OSHA approved organic solvent respirator.
 
i have brushed it and sprayed it. I am always pleased at how well the brushed application looks. (no brush marks) They say if you spray it, you should cut it with POR solvent but no more than 5%. I thought, what good is 5% so I tried spraying it straight.....plugged up the gun big time. Bought the solvent and cut it 5%....BINGO....worked great. It goes alot further if you spray it. I buy the "6 pack" small container, mix and match. You don't want the gallon...it doesn't keep once opened.
 
It also works BEST if you apply over a sand blasted finish. It will peel off of a smooth surface for sure.
 
The stuff is intended to go over rusted metal and has it's best adhesion then. If you have unrusted metal or have the ability to sand blast and remove the rust you will get better results using a self etching primer and normal top coat paint. But I do agree it will peel right off un rusted smoothe metal.
 
dgc333 said:
Never heard of any requirements for a forced air respirator from POR. They recomend an OSHA approved organic solvent respirator.
Click to expand...

I had to do some searching, but I found the site I read that on. And it is from a distributor, not the manufacturer. por store
Do use an organic vapor particulate respirator, NIOSH/MSHA approved when spraying POR-15. If you are spraying in an enclosed area, you must use an air-supplied respirator.
Click to expand...
So maybe my original statement was a bit off, but it's better to be safe than sorry.
 
I guess the only way to know for sure is to review the MSDS sheet from POR. The Material Safety Data Sheet must define the Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) that is necessary to use the stuff safely and is mandated by OSHA.

Directly from the POR15 MSDS sheet for PPE.

"spray applications you must protect against exposure to both vapor and spray mist. An air-supplied respirator is strongly recommended
for spray application. Observe OSHA regulations for respirator use 29 CFR, 1910.134."

So the recomendation from the distributor is a good one.

Also from the MSDS.

"Asthmatic-type symptoms may develop and may be immediate or delayed up to several hours. Treatment is essentially symptomatic."

So the stuff is not as nasty as as first stated, basically you get sick and once you get away from it you get better, no fried brain cells. Of course you don't want to expose your self to the point of getting sick either.
 
Lots of very good replies here. I have also used POR-15 and love it. The only thing I can add is I have used it on smooth surfaces though and it stuck well because I etched it real good. The best part is it flows out so well when brushed on it looks like it was sprayed.

Here is a pix of mine where I applied POR-15 under the wheelwels. Hopefully th pix comes out decent.

Cuda underhood and fenderwells 003.jpg
 
Fishy, That looks real good.

Anyone use the por15 engine painting kit ? Does it need to be used on bare cast iron or can I scuff the thing up and repaint it ? I'm not tearing the motor down, I'll use spray bombs if I have to.
 
I used the POR engine paint on my slant 6. It is intended to be applied over POR15. The slant was quite rusty. I cleaned, degreased, nocked off the loose rust with a wire brush and painted the engine with silver POR15. Once dry I painted with the Hemi Orange engine enamel. Lasted for 4 years and 28k miles without any rust coming back through.

Since my 360 was backed and soda blasted at they machine shop they primed with a slf etching primer and painted with VHT engine paint. I used that to finish up the areas that needed painting after assembly.
 
The kit I bough came with Por15 metal ready, Primer and the Hemi orange paint. Should I use it or just spray bomb the thing?
 
I have used POR15 on all my cars and like it very well.

But I bought the engine kit and to me it was a waste of money now thats just me .

I have the paint mixed up at the paint store and shoot the engine on the stand.

Got it mixed up in tangerine orange(Dupont) and its really close to HEMI orange.
 
Well if you have nice rust free metal then go with the paint of your choice. If the block is rusty and you can't or don't want to remove it all then use a brush and the POR kit. BTW, the kits do not come with primer, it's a can of POR15.
 
I have used POR 15 alot , it's tough stuff. I always wondered how hard it would be to remove, say a head after painting an engine. Seems like it would be hard to break the seal after it cures. But I guess you could paint before assembly.
Bob
 
I used in the inner door panels on the 65 cuda worked great only thing don't get it on your skin stuff has to just wear off so you walk around for a week with black on your arms :wav:
 
Por 15 - Paint Over Rust 15

I used it on the rusty floors of my '65 Barracuda in 1999. The floors still look great! Most people think the floors are brand new or something. Follow the prep instructions first or it can flake off.

I used it on my battery tray, still looks like new.

I used it on the hood of my van, and didn't put any top coat over it. After a year the sun completely ate it away....not good at all outside!

YOU MUST put some kind of top coat or protect it from the sun. When the POR15 is still a little tacky, you can spray some primer or other paint onto it and that will give you a nice base you can paint. I believe they now sell some that you can paint over if you don't like this method.

I bought a gallon, 5 years later it's still good. It's now a little thick, but we're using it on my friends Dart now. If you get it all over the edge of your paint can, put Saran wrap over the top of the can everytime you reseal it, or pour it all into a new can. I used cheap disposable bristle paint brushes, but they can shed so get good ones or de-shed them first.
 
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