Proper Distributor for HEI Conversion

-
Mr onetwo

Mr onetwo

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 28, 2016
Messages
56
Reaction score
27
Location
coastal Maine
I received this new distributor from RockAuto yesterday and wanted the opinions of people who have done this conversion.I have a 1970 Fury with a 318 2bbl.The car is otherwise stock and has 74K on the clock.
It came with a sticker stating that the warrantee is void if removed! Don't like that at all.There is also a small amount of up and down play in the shaft, but this may be normal.I can return it if there is a better alternative.I am on a tight budget and already have all the HEI parts and a limiter plate to do this with. I think I will get a Pertronix Igniter III round coil unless someone has a better or cheaper alternative. Any and all advice is really appreciated guys!

wpi distro 1.JPG


distro 2.JPG
 
Mr onetwo said:
I received this new distributor from RockAuto yesterday and wanted the opinions of people who have done this conversion.I have a 1970 Fury with a 318 2bbl.The car is otherwise stock and has 74K on the clock.
It came with a sticker stating that the warrantee is void if removed! Don't like that at all.There is also a small amount of up and down play in the shaft, but this may be normal.I can return it if there is a better alternative.I am on a tight budget and already have all the HEI parts and a limiter plate to do this with. I think I will get a Pertronix Igniter III round coil unless someone has a better or cheaper alternative. Any and all advice is really appreciated guys!

View attachment 1715409572

View attachment 1715409573
Click to expand...

Those distributors work perfectly fine for HEI in a budget daily driver.
Been running that exact setup for years with the 8 pin module.
A little up and down play is not a problem (2 peice shaft has some play between them)
You can get an E or C core coil from a yard cheap, and they work great but you could run a canister if you wish.
The Dodge magnum engine coils are also cheap and a good choice.
Below is the 8 pin module and a GM E core coil I picked up for 12 bucks out of the local pick a part.
If you pull one from somewhere be sure and get the connectors with it.

installed.jpg
 
Last edited:
I was hoping you would chime in TrailBeast! Is it real important to confirm the gap between the reluctor and the pickup? I have a Ford coil with the proper connectors so will use it.These are the parts I bought a couple of years ago.

coil.JPG


module.JPG


View attachment 1715409594

combined.JPG
 
Up and down play is normal. If you are going to run that blue ford ignition coil it has a male end on it and the distributor you pictured has female ends on it. Not sure if you have an ignition coil wire with one female and one male end. I believe your current stock setup also has a ballast running to your coil which you should bypass to get maximum volts to your new coil (if your new coil doesn't require a ballast resistor if it's a low resistance e-coil which it appears to be).
Are you using the bracket that bolts the HEI module to the bottom of your distributor (Mopar HEI Conversion)? Make sure you use the thermal paste that should have come with your new HEI module to mount it.
 
I don't like the way the distributor rotates and vertical clearance is too loose. Because you can't remove the cap to investigate without voiding the warrantee I am sending it back to RA for a refund.Fail I guess.Will stick with original points distributor , ect. 'til spring and then figure out what to do at that time.
 
Mr onetwo said:
I was hoping you would chime in TrailBeast! Is it real important to confirm the gap between the reluctor and the pickup? I have a Ford coil with the proper connectors so will use it.These are the parts I bought a couple of years ago.
Click to expand...

Sorry, but if you don't quote someone's post they don't know you asked or said anything.

The gap isn't supper critical. but it should be close to .008
Most everyone including the manuals say you should use a non magnetic feeler gauge.
 
Mr onetwo said:
I don't like the way the distributor rotates and vertical clearance is too loose. Because you can't remove the cap to investigate without voiding the warrantee I am sending it back to RA for a refund.Fail I guess.Will stick with original points distributor , ect. 'til spring and then figure out what to do at that time.
Click to expand...

"Can't remove the cap????" How are you supposed to set the timing????

For info, tho, ALL traditional Chrysler built single point or breakerless (aluminum housing) distributor DO HAVE some vertical play. I don't know what you mean by rotation, is it sloppy? side to side? or too tight?
 
67Dart273 said:
"Can't remove the cap????" How are you supposed to set the timing????

For info, tho, ALL traditional Chrysler built single point or breakerless (aluminum housing) distributor DO HAVE some vertical play. I don't know what you mean by rotation, is it sloppy? side to side? or too tight?
Click to expand...
It's hard to describe...it's almost a clunk as you turn it by hand.
 
Sounds to me like you need to return them "defective"
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top