Put myself in a trap...

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Moparbaker

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How fun is this: I just "remember the fact that I forgot" to replace the rear crank seal, & the front is already in as timing cover & waterpump is on...
Could it be done by just let'n the crank lose a wee bit?
Anyone done it or something similar?
Gee it sure sux to be stressed! :(
 
How fun is this: I just "remember the fact that I forgot" to replace the rear crank seal, & the front is already in as timing cover & waterpump is on...
Could it be done by just let'n the crank lose a wee bit?
Anyone done it or something similar?
Gee it sure sux to be stressed! :(
You can do it like that. You MIGHT (keyword) not have to loosen the crank. Won't be fun but it's about the only way to do it. Don't forget to lube the seal on the crankshaft (inner) lip. Lubing it on the outside too might help slide it in.
 
Could it be done by just let'n the crank lose a wee bit?
Anyone done it or something similar?
Gee it sure sux to be stressed! :(
Yes; rear seals have been removed replaced for decades like that. If it is a rubber seal, then it is pretty easy. If it is a rope seal, then it takes a trick or 2.
 
It ain't fun!

Doing it isn't that fun really but having all done sure is.:D
I did ALL the lower bearings, rear main seal and new oil pump on my back in gravel on Stephanie's 72 Swinger, and a rear main on a 23 foot RV with a 454 and turbo 400.

The RV I had to take the 300 foot driveline with a center support out, then the trans, then jack up the motor and block it, pull the flex plate, then remove the pan bolts and reach up and over into the oil pan to remove the oil pump and pickup before I could get the pan off.:D (on the same gravel drive)
Reverse all that (including putting the oil pump and pickup back in by feel without being able to see any of it)
Took off the next day on a Thanksgiving weekend 4 day trip with the bikes and not one glitch.

Yea, a rear main on a car is a breeze.:D
 
I'd rather pull the engine out & do it in the open than pull down trans & work upsidedown & anyway having to do the pan-a-little-then-oil pump-then-the-rest-of-the-pan-+-all-the-work-I-was-gonna-do-anyway, but we're all different & I reckon that was quite some experiance too... :)
 
BTW, you don't need to pull the trans to replace the rear main seal. That all stays in place and fully connected.

In either case, if you do not pull the crank, then:
- Pulling the old 2 piece seal may require that you get a brass rod and push/tap the upper half in the block out.
- The newer seals take some pushing to get the upper half in with the crank loosened up. A rope seal can be gently pulled in with a brass wire looped securely into one end of the upper rope seal half; cut the wire and leave the end in place as it is softer than the crank.

Pulling the crank tends to give you a better chance of success in getting the seal to stay sealed. I am about 50/50 in keeping 2 piece crank seals from leaking BTW.... LOL
 
I'd rather pull the engine out & do it in the open than pull down trans & work upsidedown & anyway having to do the pan-a-little-then-oil pump-then-the-rest-of-the-pan-+-all-the-work-I-was-gonna-do-anyway, but we're all different & I reckon that was quite some experiance too... :)
I was thinking that, for all the Phucking around, it probably takes the same amount of hours to pull the engine, mount it on and install the seal, now if you have access to a lift, that may be an in the car repair.
 
Now it's done, the engine was already out & I was just gonna put the oilpan back on when I had the thought in my head that I forgot something...
Anyway, I losened the crank just a tiny bit at the front & then a bit more & more towards the rear & I had a alu rod that bended quite easy to push the old piece out, I tried first to pull it with a screw but the screw just came out with some of it on its threads.
Now the crank is tighten down just snug & tomorrow I'll torque it & then the pan goes on.
 
Did you put a tiny bit of RTV on the ends of the seal halves to help seal them? Glad you got it done!
 
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