Rallye Dash, re attaching the plastic pegs,,,

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my68barracuda

my68barracuda

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Finishing up the re new process on the rallye dash.

Concerning re attaching the plastic pegs that hold the lenses and the lenses centers in.
I have read posts where folks said they re melted the plastic peg with a soldering iron,
I am guessing that one would need to add a small amount of plastic to the existing peg ?

What kind of plastic does one use? Can someone add a few details on how to do this.

Although I have also considered putting a drop of plastic epoxy on the end to fashion a cap to the existing peg, see any issues with doing the assembly that way?

thanks

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I used some leftover plastic from another bezel. Worked good. Careful with soldering iron, I bubbled a lens from being too close.
 
If you try gluing, I have found JB Weld 50133 to work better than other epoxies on plastic. Used it for screw posts on my gauge cluster. Have had it apart a couple times and they held...
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my68barracuda said:
Finishing up the re new process on the rallye dash.Concerning re attaching the plastic pegs that hold the lenses and the lenses centers in.I have read posts where folks said they re melted the plastic peg with a soldering iron,
I am guessing that one would need to add a small amount of plastic to the existing peg ?What kind of plastic does one use? Can someone add a few details on how to do this.Although I have also considered putting a drop of plastic epoxy on the end to fashion a cap to the existing peg, see any issues with doing the assembly that way?
thanks
Click to expand...

Hello my68barracuda,

In the past I have used model car parts trees as donor plastic.
Comes in numerous colors and melts the same as the cluster.
Makes for almost undetectable repair.
Now you just have to find someone that still plays with models.
Hope this helps.
Happy Mopar :)
Arron

Model car parts tree.jpg
 
It's ABS plastic. Majority of plastics in our world is ABS. Melted and extruded under pressure is where it gets its strength. Holds air out of it. You saw that some pressure from a concave anvil was applied to melt the stakes too. We can melt and blend in our donor material. It will never be quite as strong as OEM. If you want a small spatula like tool in other hand to move the melted plastic around, apply some pressure to it... Lowes and others have little sample pieces of Formica for free. Grab the slickest shiniest available and whittle it down to suit your need. I used contact cement to attach the little piece of formica to a scrap piece of fiberglass I had here. created a 90 degree handle on it.
A tip or warning... You are going to restake the metal matting/frames over the clear lenses. Hold the soldering iron upright as possible at all times. If the barrel of iron gets too close/touches a clear lens it will scar/ruin it. The strings of melted material created at pull away, control and collect them. Small pieces of aluminum foil provide some protection. Lessons learned the hard way.
The first one I did, back in late 80s, completely reassembled and in the car before I discovered what turned out to be a hair dangling in front of the fuel gauge. I must have scratched my head during assembly. Bottom line... We can't be too careful.
 
I've worked for a couple companies where our products were mostly ABS plastic doing engineering, new product developnent, prototype building, etc. MEK works very well for bonding but it is very fluid and it would be too easy to mess up your lenses.

So my vote is for JB weld as it is far safer and easier. If you ever have to redo it, the JB can be ground away.
 
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FABO is always a great place for ideas, thanks

I went with the JB Plastic Bonder, I put a small drop on top of each peg, to give them a bit more height, let set, then assembled the pieces and put another
larger drop on each one. So far, all is good.

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