Rear Disc Brake conversion

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Dragnut1957

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I need some help. I see al kinds of conversion kits out there. I have a 72 Duster that has manual front disc brakes. Do I need to change the master cylinder? I really do not want to go to power brakes. It is a dual purpose car, street driven and bracket raced. Thank you for any advice you can give me.
 
Why do you want rear disc brakes?
If you are comfortable with the amount of foot pressure that the front DBs require now, un-assisted, then there is no good reason to add a booster. And if you are happy with the amount of pedal pressure it takes to affect stops, then there is no good reason to change the M/C.
But you do need to remove the Residual valve from the rear line, at the M/C, which the rear DBs do not need or want. It has to go. The Proportioning valve may need to be reworked or replaced..
The rear brakes usually do less than 15 to 20 per cent of the stopping work. Just switching to rear DBs may not slow your car down any faster.

If you have lots of rubber in the back, you can increase the amount of work the rear drums do, by increasing the line pressure to the rear. If there is still room for improvement in the rear, there may be upsized drums available. If you are running skinnies up front, then I can see more rear brake desireable. But you will have to be very careful not to overbrake the rear, cuz rear-wheel lock-up usually leads to spin-outs.
I have found with 295z in the rear, and 235s in the front, I can run rear line pressure equal to front, with no proportioning at all to the drums. I have KH 4-pistons up front and 10 x 2.5s at the rear.I am currently running 15/16 w/cs back there IIRC.
 
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"What you need" is going to depend on the size of the calipers, the overal leverage of the setup (rotor size, etc) and your tire sizes,

"My" experience:

(All my junk is VERY backyard. I can't afford the fancy aircraft brakes)

Front on mine is the typical Duster / Demon 73/74 front end conversion, with stock type calipers. There's a later, larger bore caliper you can use, and THAT will effect things

My rear is a Lincoln Versaille which is factory disk brakes. "I got lucky." Turns out I did not need a prop valve, and I simply took a nail and inserted it into the master tube fittings to rupture the residual valves which you do NOT want for disk brakes. "It works just fine" with the factory master. This is manual, not power

You MAY need a prop valve. There's only one way to find out...........
 
Why do you want rear disc brakes?
If you are comfortable with the amount of foot pressure that the front DBs require now, un-assisted, then there is no good reason to add a booster. And if you are happy with the amount of pedal pressure it takes to affect stops, then there is no good reason to change the M/C.
But you do need to remove the Residual valve from the rear line, at the M/C, which the rear DBs do not need or want. It has to go. The Proportioning valve may need to be reworked or replaced..
The rear brakes usually do less than 15 to 20 per cent of the stopping work. Just switching to rear DBs may not slow your car down any faster.

If you have lots of rubber in the back, you can increase the amount of work the rear drums do, by increasing the line pressure to the rear. If there is still room for improvement in the rear, there may be upsized drums available. If you are running skinnies up front, then I can see more rear brake desireable. But you will have to be very careful not to overbrake the rear, cuz rear-wheel lock-up usually leads to spin-outs.
I have found with 295z in the rear, and 235s in the front, I can run rear line pressure equal to front, with no proportioning at all to the drums. I have KH 4-pistons up front and 10 x 2.5s at the rear.I am currently running 15/16 w/cs back there IIRC.
Thank you very much. I appreciate the help!
 
"What you need" is going to depend on the size of the calipers, the overal leverage of the setup (rotor size, etc) and your tire sizes,

"My" experience:

(All my junk is VERY backyard. I can't afford the fancy aircraft brakes)

Front on mine is the typical Duster / Demon 73/74 front end conversion, with stock type calipers. There's a later, larger bore caliper you can use, and THAT will effect things

My rear is a Lincoln Versaille which is factory disk brakes. "I got lucky." Turns out I did not need a prop valve, and I simply took a nail and inserted it into the master tube fittings to rupture the residual valves which you do NOT want for disk brakes. "It works just fine" with the factory master. This is manual, not power

You MAY need a prop valve. There's only one way to find out...........
Thank you, here we go!
 
Dr. Diff's 10.7" rear disk kit. Mopar 10.7" Rear Disc Brake Kit

More expensive than some, but, it allows the use of the stock tapered axle bearings, which a lot of the less expensive kits do not. And you get to call Cass if you have any problems, he'll get you straightened out. Not like some eBay kit. I haven't converted to rear disks yet, but I am running the 13" cobra style front brake kit from Dr. Diff. Great stuff. I'll be going to his 11.7" rear disk kit eventually.
 
Dr. Diff's 10.7" rear disk kit. Mopar 10.7" Rear Disc Brake Kit

More expensive than some, but, it allows the use of the stock tapered axle bearings, which a lot of the less expensive kits do not. And you get to call Cass if you have any problems, he'll get you straightened out. Not like some eBay kit. I haven't converted to rear disks yet, but I am running the 13" cobra style front brake kit from Dr. Diff. Great stuff. I'll be going to his 11.7" rear disk kit eventually.
Thank you, I will check that out. It sounds like exactly what I need.
 
Dr Diff rear brake kits are very nice. I got his last set a few weeks back. Here is a picture of his 10.75 rear disk kit I'm currently working on.

20160716_132418.jpg
 
If you search this site, somewhere there's a big thread on adapting Jeep calipers to rear axle. Good luck finding it due to the "improved" software
 
Aww c'mon it's not that bad.

Here's one by stansblue72, may he RIP. It states its for a 8 3/4 but it ended up on an 8 1/4
rear disc from grand cherokee on a 8 3/4

Here's another in depth conversion by blue missile, his is for an 8 3/4
Jeep rear discs on an 8 3/4 axle solution

Another one by halifaxhops for an 8 1/4
8 1/4 rear and jeep brakes!

Just quickly perusing those threads it seems like the swap is pretty easy for an 8 1/4, but to make them fit on an 8 3/4 requires a quite a bit more work.
 
Just getting ready to do install/write up on our kits. Work great and are very affordable. this is performance kit with drilled rotors, powder coated calipers and braided lines. We use a new master just for disk/disk.

brakes.jpg
 
Just getting ready to do install/write up on our kits. Work great and are very affordable. this is performance kit with drilled rotors, powder coated calipers and braided lines. We use a new master just for disk/disk./QUOTE]

What are the calipers and rotors from? And do they work with tapered axle bearings or just green bearings?
 
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