Scody21
Just send it
Well you would have to put a cheby rear end in it to get a posiCould I upgrade some part(s) to make it posi ? Or would that require a whole rear end? NICE DUSTER
Well you would have to put a cheby rear end in it to get a posiCould I upgrade some part(s) to make it posi ? Or would that require a whole rear end? NICE DUSTER
Dang lolWell you would have to put a cheby rear end in it to get a posi
What that was probably the most useless advice I've got so far..Good try thoIt's clearly an 8.25 which is plenty strong. If you're just itching to spend money, send me a grand and say you have an upgraded rear end.
I was born on a Monday but not last Monday lolIt's clearly an 8.25 which is plenty strong. If you're just itching to spend money, send me a grand and say you have an upgraded rear end.
Well, I did nail down that it IS an 8.25. All everybody else did was that "looks like" crap. Useless? Maybe I'll remember you said that next time you ask for advice.What that was probably the most useless advice I've got so far..Good try tho
Stock 1974 904 transmission an 5.9 Magnum converted to a carburetor
I told myself it was soft ,before I build the duster I daily drove a 2008 Saturn 2.4 engine an it ms definitely more quickerYou know, I see you just itching to spend money with no real idea why your combo is soft.
You need to figure a few things out first.
number one is to check out your engine;
do a compression test.
While the plugs are out, look at them!
then check the power-timing.
then make sure that when you floor the gas pedal, that the 4bbl actually opens all the way and that the choke is not stuck on, that your exhaust is open, and that your engine is coming up to a decent working temperature.
One dead cylinder is 12.5% soft.
All 8 cylinders at 10% leakdown is almost the same as one dead cylinder.
Maybe you have a burned valve, or a bad cam, or just crappy cam timing. or a plugged exhaust.
These are the basics
Number two is the trans
do a stall tested and an efficiency test.
Number three is the rear end;
figure out exactly what ratio is in there
Number four is the chassis.
Make sure the brakes are not dragging, that the U-joints are ok, empty your trunk, leave your porky friends at home, and air up the tires.
number five is inlet air
What elevation are you at?
What size is your Magnum, for sure?
How is she getting air?
and is she getting enough air?
The hardest part to making power is getting the air in.
And finally;
Who told you your combo was soft?
That's a trick question.
If you told yourself it was soft, then soft compared to what?
If somebody else told you it was soft, do you trust his judgement?
All this is very good Information ,I'm at work an then I going to school right after so after I'll try to respond, I drive to work an school no highway driving done yet ..the fastest speed limit is 55 mphwhat kind of driving do you like to do? run on the freeway and keep up with traffic? run hard from 0-60? get an idea of what you want your cruise speed RPM with a calculator like this: https://www.tremec.com/calculadora.php
keep in mind, this will estimate cruise RPM probably 100-150RPM low, because this calculator does not take converter slip into play. try figure out your current ratio as well, to determine what ratio you may want to go to.
IF you decide to replace the rear, you can probably sell your current one for a decent amount, I'd be interested if it was in indiana, michigan, or ohio....don't know what the A body parts situation is down there, but up here, you can't find much. your best bet for upgrading the rear is to look towards a ford 8.8 out of a ranger or explorer, especially if you want to move to a 3.55-3.73 ratio, disc brakes, etc....a lot of them are sitting in the junkyards with limited slips, too. an A body 8.25" is about 57" or so drum face to drum face. a ranger rear is 58.5" mount face to mount face, an explorer is 59.625". the ford axles have the pumpkin offset, if you shorten one side to center it and use the same side axle shaft on both sides, it ends up being 56.625".
XJ 8.25's are an option, too. autos are mainly 3.55's, manuals 3.07, might find a tow package with a 3.73, might find with a limited slip....only problem is they're 60"-60.5" drum face to drum face, which means you'll need to use high offset (like +30-45mm later model mustang) wheels to not have the wheels hang outboard of the fenders.
Yea I was thinking my gear ratio is of that, some charts that was sent to me say that small block V8 passenger car had gear ratio in the 2'sGo to a self serve car wash with spray wands, and blast all that crud off the cover. Be prepared to get splattered with some of it....lol. If you get that junk off the cover and bolts, you will be able to see the gear ratio tag unless someone has removed it. I'll start the betting that it's 2.45 gears!
guessing you meant "take the gears"....Is this a option?
Take the guys out of the Jeep rear and use it in the one you have?
mark me down for 2.76.Go to a self serve car wash with spray wands, and blast all that crud off the cover. Be prepared to get splattered with some of it....lol. If you get that junk off the cover and bolts, you will be able to see the gear ratio tag unless someone has removed it. I'll start the betting that it's 2.45 gears!
What I would do first (after the GREAT advice to clean it first!) is pull the cover off, and actually see if it has a suregrip, and what ratio it is. Then put some appropriate fresh fluid in it, and decide what you wanna do.
I agree, the 8 1/4 should be fine, with a sure grip added, and a reasonable gear.(3.23/3.55)
For a stronger rearend? HERESY!, but I would suggest a mustang 8.8. As strong as a 8 3/4, much more available, and MUCH cheaper. You can find them with disc's, "posi's" and good gears. An explorer rear works too, if you narrow one side and use two short axles.
I came across articles talking about using mustang 8.8 an I also saw a video on youtube where they used a Ford rear end but had to shorten some parts an an short axles an they ended up cutting the flange an moved them not sure inward or outwards to fit, Now with the mustang 8.8 what modifications would need to be made ?What I would do first (after the GREAT advice to clean it first!) is pull the cover off, and actually see if it has a suregrip, and what ratio it is. Then put some appropriate fresh fluid in it, and decide what you wanna do.
I agree, the 8 1/4 should be fine, with a sure grip added, and a reasonable gear.(3.23/3.55)
For a stronger rearend? HERESY!, but I would suggest a mustang 8.8. As strong as a 8 3/4, much more available, and MUCH cheaper. You can find them with disc's, "posi's" and good gears. An explorer rear works too, if you narrow one side and use two short axles.
How would I tell if it a suregrip ? An I'll watch some videos on how to take cover off ( is it as simple as removing the ten bolts) an how to change fluid, most likely would benefit from a fluid change ( not sure when or if it has ever been changed, Im off from school tomorrow so if I get time I will wash it an possibly take it apart an send more photosI came across articles talking about using mustang 8.8 an I also saw a video on youtube where they used a Ford rear end but had to shorten some parts an an short axles an they ended up cutting the flange an moved them not sure inward or outwards to fit, Now with the mustang 8.8 what modifications would need to be made ?
guessing you meant "take the gears"....
not sure if there were any differences/changes that happened between the early 70's and early 90's that might preclude that....IIRC there were some major changes to the 7.25" in the late 70's that made stuff like that not swappable.
How would I tell if it a suregrip ? An I'll watch some videos on how to take cover off ( is it as simple as removing the ten bolts) an how to change fluid, most likely would benefit from a fluid change ( not sure when or if it has ever been changed, Im off from school tomorrow so if I get time I will wash it an possibly take it apart an send more photos