shifting problems

-
C

curlybob52

Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2015
Messages
12
Reaction score
0
Location
joplin,mo.
had trans. rebuilt clutch pressure plate pilot bushing still having trouble with car running have problems when its off it seems to shift fine.
 
Things to check:
1) the clutch is not adjusted correctly and depressed fully when shifting
2) bent clutch disc/pressure plate issues
3) pilot bushing is dragging on the input shaft
4) Input shaft bottoming in crank. ( Have heard of this on automatic cranks that were not drilled deep enough)
5) incorrect Z bar or Z bar alignment
6) All shift rods set up to correct length in the neutral position on the shifter.
What fluid are you running in the 833? Many folks are saying Pennzoil Synchro fluid is great. Some like 80w-90, some still run the ATF.
Keep us posted on what you find for your fix!
 
Or what is actually going on because we have not gotten a clear answer yet.

So is it hard to shift into every gear and grinds in reverse?

If so, it could be about any of the things posted above.
In a car that hasn't been messed with by a bunch of people it usually is caused by a misadjusted or worn out clutch or dragging pilot bearing. (and sometimes fluid type used)

Reverse is different than new cars, as you push in your clutch, put it in first and THEN into reverse.
This stops things from spinning before you try and put it in reverse which does not have a synchronizer ring.
 
If the cluch is properly installed, as in see above tips, and the disc is not in backwards, and the tranny went straight in with no fuss,as in you didn't bend the disc, and all the parts are correct, then;
no the adjustment is not touchy, so long as you are depressing the pedal far enough. With 1 inch of freeplay, normally, you do not need to push the pedal to the floor.I say normally, cuz if you have a too-short arm on the Z-bar, well then I cannot say,lol.
With the engine off, you should not be ramming it through the gears. This can be very hard on the brass rings;many times the clutching teeth will butt together and not allow a shift. If you force it, you are again being very hard on the brass rings, and it may even jam onto the steel cone making further shifting nearly impossible, until the engine is started and breaks it free.

BTW
Make sure there is oil in it!
The oil acts as a cluster-brake Slowing it down when the pedal is depressed and the disc is no longer dragging on the pressure-plate nor the flywheel.Just before it stops is the best time to select first. To select reverse the cluster has to be completely stopped.
If it's grinding into reverse, then the cluster is still spinning, and so is the disc.
 
Last edited:
AJ/FormS said:
BTW
Make sure there is oil in it!
Click to expand...
I know this all to well! Bought a car with the same type of issues, pulled the trans it was bone dry and completely trashed

20170402_135334_resized.jpg


20170415_151739_resized.jpg
 
curlybob52 give us some more info so we can help you!
 
AJ/FormS said:
If the cluch is properly installed, as in see above tips, and the disc is not in backwards, and the tranny went straight in with no fuss,as in you didn't bend the disc, and all the parts are correct, then;
no the adjustment is not touchy, so long as you are depressing the pedal far enough. With 1 inch of freeplay, normally, you do not need to push the pedal to the floor.I say normally, cuz if you have a too-short arm on the Z-bar, well then I cannot say,lol.
With the engine off, you should not be ramming it through the gears. This can be very hard on the brass rings;many times the clutching teeth will butt together and not allow a shift. If you force it, you are again being very hard on the brass rings, and it may even jam onto the steel cone making further shifting nearly impossible, until the engine is started and breaks it free.

BTW
Make sure there is oil in it!
The oil acts as a cluster-brake Slowing it down when the pedal is depressed and the disc is no longer dragging on the pressure-plate nor the flywheel.Just before it stops is the best time to select first. To select reverse the cluster has to be completely stopped.
If it's grinding into reverse, then the cluster is still spinning, and so is the disc.
Click to expand...
was not ramming the gears just noitice it went into any gear easy with motor not running
 
What happens when the car is running in gear and and you have your foot on the clutch?
 
Can you describe what is happening when you do?
 
Just found this on my 340 four speed combo yesterday. I was having some hard shifting when the engine was running. Seemed to be mostly first. The tranny was rebuilt months back with nearly zero miles on the 833. I had a friend sit in the car and push the clutch multiple times while I watched the bell housing. There was a slight movement of the bell housing away from the engine as he pushed the clutch pedal towards the floor. I tried tightening the bolts on the bell to engine interface adjacent the Z bar. The bolt was tight. I removed the bolt from the bell housing. What a PIA getting my hand and wrench down by the firewall. Bolt was removed, threads on the bolt looked like new, no galling or crap on the threads. Choice time. Add another washer to the bolt or grind a thread off of the bolt. I took the bolt to the work bench, screwed a nut on the bolt. Fired up the bench grinder, took off one of the threads. Touched up the end of the bolt with a file. Removed the nut off of the bolt. Reinstalled the bolt into the bell housing. Tightened the bolt. No more movement of the bell from the engine. I guess the bolt was bottoming out in the blind hole of the engine block. Another mystery solved. Now to address those pesky rubber front brake lines........
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top